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Discussion Starter #1
I took my 97 T-Bird for inspection today, and the mechanic could not connect to the PCM. I saw there was a 10 amp fuse for OBDII datalink, but it was verified to be good.

Is there anything I can look at next? Or am I down to swapping in the spare PCM I have?

Thanks in advance,
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I did plug in my scanner, got no connection with that either.

I will mention that I did add the Big3 mod to the car over the summer, though I did just piggyback the existing setup and did not remove any power wires or grounds. I used a pre-made kit. Yesterday was the first time I tried to link to the OBDII connector.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still no luck. The wiring looks fine, and the OBD2 datalink and cig lighter fuses are both good.

Any other fuses to check that would be on the same circuit?

Al
 

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According to the wiring book, it should be hot at all times.

It shows a 10A OBD fuse on the yellow wire to C232. It says this connector is to the left of the steering wheel, so it runs a good way.

Pin 16 is hot, and both 4 and 5 are grounds.

The ground on pin 5 goes thru a connector, C103, so see if it's connected to ground.

2, 10, and 13 are straight to the EEC.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the info. I don't have a wiring diagram, so not sure I can do much with that info regarding which pin is which.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I'm going to call this operator error X 2. The mechanic not being able to connect was hopefully a fluke, and me not being able to connect was not having the Torque app fully set up on my brand new phone.

And for shits and giggles, I got my first check engine light on this car on the way home, before I had figured out the connection conundrum! Good 'ol P1443.

Al
 

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There are Eight pieces of tubing in that line, and it goes from the front bumper to the gas tank.

:)

I've done this on all 3 cars; I'll bet the evap cannister/solenoid is laying in the front bumper. :)

The Evap lines are disintegrating.

IIRC: There's a piece at the TB, one under the inlet tube, on the frame rail, one at the cannister, one to the solenoid, one under the pass fender liner, one at he fuel filter, and one at the gas tank.

There could be more, but I think that's it.

It's all 1/4" line except for the piece at the solenoid.

The one at the solenoid is two sizes; I put one piece of tubing inside another, and glued it with rtv.

You don't Have to glue it, as it's nominally at vacuum, but a slight backfire will make it pop apart.

The don't normally backfire, unless you do something wrong writing a tune. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. I went ahead and bought a new Ford sensor and solenoid. I only want to work on that once.

The lines behind the headlight didn't look horrible, nothing is laying in the bumper, but I will replace all of them that I can.

I replaced the valves and hoses just in that area on our old Cougar about 12 yrs ago. The light stayed off for years, then came back on occasion. Probably needed one of the hoses farther back replaced.

I did find the SOP for doing the hoses. I like the idea of going in thru the wheelwell. I know I have come at them from a "less convenient" angle in the past.

Thanks again,
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am having trouble finding this infamous "emission" hose. I have a choice between stiff fuel hose or vacuum hose that may or may not be rated for gasoline vapor.

I feel that the fuel hose doesn't form a true vacuum tight seal unless you use a clamp or zip tie. But I guess I'll go that route and use zip ties, and hope I never have to take it off again.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It sounds great, but I think I'm going to have to get the best I can from a local store (ie: quick!). Working on it this weekend and hopefully getting the car inspected afterwards.

Al
 

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It sounds great, but I think I'm going to have to get the best I can from a local store (ie: quick!). Working on it this weekend and hopefully getting the car inspected afterwards.

Al
If you can't get the good stuff, and you need inspection, the cheap crap from AZ or advanced will work for a year or so, it just dissolves slowly.


Even the good stuff dissolves in fuel additives; apparently, that's where the black crap I keep finding in injectors comes from.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a question regarding EVAP access. When I first saw the old tech write-up regarding accessing the EVAP parts thru the wheelwell, I thought "brilliant idea!" But the more I think about it, there's this little thing called a brake rotor/suspension, etc taking up a good chunk of that space. Where is your head/body supposed to go while working on this? I am a tall guy. Or isn't it as tight as it seems once the splash shield is out of there?

Speaking of that splash shield, I remember the big-ass thing hanging from the top the way a ******* chandelier hangs from the ceiling by this one little plastic fastener. Can you buy those fasteners anywhere? I also need one for a mud flap.

Thanks,
Al
 

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I don't know; I did all of mine thru the small holes in the bottom of the bumper cover.

Yes, it's tight; ever change the oil on a 4.6l? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't know; I did all of mine thru the small holes in the bottom of the bumper cover.

Yes, it's tight; ever change the oil on a 4.6l? :)
I may try the fender liner route since supposedly there is a piece of rubber hose in the back of the wheelwell too.

I don't have any trouble changing the oil, but I have a stock swaybar.

You mean these Al? :D

They work fine for me.

Joe
They look like the ones, thanks Joe.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I went the fender liner route. It is definitely easier as you can see everything, but a person with short arms would be able to better fit the right arm in the tight space.

I used Gates 1/4" fuel line on everything. I also found a nice one piece brass reducer from Ace Hardware to make the 3/8" to 1/4" piece at the charcoal canister. Ironically, that rubber piece was by far the best of all the rubber pieces, I was contemplating re-using it when I was having a tough time finding an adequate reducer.

Al
 
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