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Discussion Starter #1
my 96 4.6 is burnin a quart every 1000 miles and it has 97 k on it, should i put heavier weight oil in it or wut would yall say to do to try and relieve this problem any.
 

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probably valve stem seals.

If you keep the oil up it will run forever, if you want it to stop burning oil then replace 'em.

JH
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, thats wut i thought it was but should i add a lil heavier weight oil, cuz i run it sorta hard and race some
 

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Warlockguitarman said:
thanks, thats wut i thought it was but should i add a lil heavier weight oil, cuz i run it sorta hard and race some
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I'm sure you could use a heavier oil, especially in summer.

(Ford's recommendations on using 5/20 oils is only CAFE related; the clearences in these engines (4.6L) haven't changed at all, according to a number of Ford techs, they're the same as when they came out, when Ford used to recommend 10/30 oil)
How many miles on the engine?

If you're using dino oil, try a 10/30 HM oil, they're thicker than regular HM oils.(Pennzoil and Chevron are 2 good brands)..i used it year round with zero consumption in 3k miles.
[do not use regular 10/40, this is a very unstable grade; HM 10/30 is more stable.]

If you do hard driving in summer, you surely can try a HDEO oil (Pennzoil LongLife 15w/40 or Delo400 15/40...they provide excellent protection, and reduce oil burning, esp. the Pennz.LL)

if your'e using, try a 5W/40 or a 0w-40: best of both worlds: easy cold-flow, and 40w protection when warm (Castrol, delvac-1, Rotella synthetic, Pennz make this grade)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i am changin my oil again, i have 105 xxx miles, it is still burnin it, i am switching to full synthetic, mobil 1, i have bought some 10-30 and i am wondering if it is the best for me, it says 5-30 in the manual and my dad is gonna have a fit unless i can have proof that this oil will be the one i need, the temps here right now are from 65 to 95 on average and winter will bring 20-50 give or take, my car is mostly stock, i still run it a lil hard, not as often but i still do.
 

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Warlockguitarman said:
i am changin my oil again, i have 105 xxx miles, it is still burnin it, i am switching to full synthetic, mobil 1, i have bought some 10-30 and i am wondering if it is the best for me, it says 5-30 in the manual and my dad is gonna have a fit unless i can have proof that this oil will be the one i need, the temps here right now are from 65 to 95 on average and winter will bring 20-50 give or take, my car is mostly stock, i still run it a lil hard, not as often but i still do.
First of all, syn.oil "might" increase the consumption. Mobil-1 is on the "thin" side: which means that compared with the same weight(grade) with other brands, Mobil-1 is thinner, and burn more thamn the others. What was the reason that you chose M-1? It will be good for very cold weather, 'cause it flows well in cold, but with the temps that you have, I don't see why M-1...

Anyway, I still think if you need a 10/30 weight, the ideal ones will be Pennzoil 10/30 High Mileage (NOT the regular Pennz. 10/30), or Chevron High Mileage 10/30,or Castrol High mileage 10/30. I had great results with Pennzoil HM 10/30(NO burning in hot summer with 87k miles). It's very thick, but it seems that's what you need right now.
M-1 10/30 visc. at 100c: about 9 cSt
Pennz. HM 10/30 visc. at 100c: about 12.2 cSt

When I had consumption issues, I did an Auto-Rx treatment, and the consumption stopped totally, After that I was able to use "normal" 10/30 weights again. Right now the car 98k miles, and doesn't burn any oil. you might want to give auto-rx a try. it certainly can't hurt.
 

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That auto-rx sounds good if it fixed the problem.

My 4.6 had 161,000 on it. At first, it didn't smoke at all, then I had the cats removed. It then started smoking bad on start-up and after sitting at a stop-light (bad valve seals). Replaced one quart of my regular oil (10-30) with one quart of Lucas oil additive and all the smoking and oil consumption stopped.

Just my experience,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what is auto-rx and were could i find it, i checked out o'rielys and they didnt have it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
would sea foam do the trick also, ive heard good about it on here, i have already changed my oil to 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic, should i add a bottle of sea foam to the gas to help clean it a bit, i have been using chevron with techron gas and about every thousand mile i put a bottle of the techron fuel system cleaner, would i benefit from the sea foam?
 

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The Auto-rx treatment is a 'step-oriented' application, meaning that there's a procedure to follow for optimum results. It's a major-league internal engine cleaner. A treatment of Seafoam will probably help for a short term remedy, but the Auto-rx is definitely worth a look-see.

In my experience, oil consumption was reduced after following the three-bottle Auto-rx procedure (>=1qt./1000 miles before; <=1qt./1500 miles after). I was amazed at how black the oil was when I drained it after the first bottle of the Auto-rx application. It did some big-time cleaning.

Visit their website, and read about the product and what it does. Last time I was there, they offered a discount on multiple-bottle purchases, and an additional discount if you were a member of a valid car forum (TCCoA qualified at the time I ordered some a few months ago).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i may go to the auto rx later but for now i wont, but i changed it and it seems to run good except when i get on it or rev it a lil bit it will shoot out a lil puff of white smoke, it burnt oil before but only on start up would it really smoke any, and sometimes on rare occasions, now it smokes more, should i just keep an eye on my oil level and change back to my reg high millage oil with lucas oil stabalizer added in.
 

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Bro, just fix the seals... no special oil additive will cure it as long as the seals. There should be 8 (16?) seals (Intake valves only? or was it intake and exhaust??? Cant remember!!!!)... take the heads off, take the intake valves out, then replace those seals for best results... =) (if your a mechanic, or you know what your doing, OR you know how to read a manual, you can do this...) I work on aircraft cylinder heads, and only Continental has valve stem seals... they have it on the INTAKE valve only... the intake guide is special too, it's shorter than the exhaust guide to accomidate the seal... man i'm confused.. =P
 

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I agree with anthraxbird. Funny chemicals that stop leaks or rebuild in a can(whatever you call it) are nothing but a waste of time and money. Besides sounds like a good time for a port job :)
Alan
 

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dirtyd0g said:
I agree with anthraxbird. Funny chemicals that stop leaks or rebuild in a can(whatever you call it) are nothing but a waste of time and money. Besides sounds like a good time for a port job :)
Alan
AMEN, can I get an AMEN, Brotha!!!! [/end gospel]
Or get PI heads... =) Will be easy with your 96... =)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thats what i was gonna say, i been lookin at pi heads, that would fix the problem right? im 17, and i have some older friends that know what they are doin and i would help but my dad is still part owner of the car and he wont let me go performance with it so i am trien to get him to believe that i need to fix this problem and i will convince him that since it is already apart for about 400 i could just get new heads intake cams and all of the new gasket and bolts needed to do the changeand it would all be good and i would be able to either keep the heads for latter porting and blower on a rebuiolt engine or i would post em on this site and try and sell em to make a lil money back, all the valve seals are in the heads correct? also how much would it cost to get new vlave seals, if i wouldnt be able to do pi head swap.
 

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There are 16 valve seals total; one for each valve. The service CD that I have says you can change them without removing the heads as long as you buy the special valve spring compressor. The seals themselves should be pretty cheap. Don't know about the price of the tool.

The Lucas oil additive I used stopped the oil consumption, and I've read on here that others love the new High mileage oils.

I would suggest using the Lucas oil additive (or whatever you choose) until you decide on what you want to do, because all that oil is clogging your cats.

My car was using oil but no smoke, until I had the cats deleted (only had a 1/2 inch circle that wasn't clogged). Then it smoked like mad, so i know the cats are absorbing at least some of it.

Rob
 

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GreenBird: agreed on Auto-RX. The young man (Warlockguitarman at 17) with a "dad" looking over his shoulder needs a quick fix. The PI heads, cams, etc will come later. If Auto-Rx doesn't work then the valve seals are the next in line.

Tony
 

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The point being, the valve stem seals are shot. It's either replace them, or burn oil. There are "quick fixxes"... but your car should be your baby... It's like giving your kid mcdonalds.. sure it will fill him up, and he won't be hungry... but wouldn't you rather give him a hearty, home-cooked meal instead, so he grows up strong? Valve stem seals are DIRT CHEAP... only thing that would be a problem, is a lack of mechanical knowledge, or money. A dealership or local shop will charge an arm and a leg for head work... =)
 
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