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When I was getting ready to put the big bore 2V with new cylinder heads back into my '97 earlier this summer, I discovered that the solid rubber engine mounts I got from SCP three years ago were damaged. After considering the options, I bought a set of polyurethane mounts from Chuck Warren. Those mounts were very nicely constructed and came with high quality fasteners. When connecting the exhaust system to the headers, I noticed that the engine sat slightly lower in the chassis, but I was able to bolt the parts together and did not worry about the minor misalignment.

I had not seen any other consequences until today, when I attempted to change the oil and filter. With the engine sitting slightly lower, I was unable to remove the oil filter after unfastening it from the engine. I tried every orientation I could think of, but none worked. There was just not enough room between the power steering pump and the front antiroll bar. In the end I had to remove the engine mount to subframe bolt and jack the engine up in order to get the old filter out and the new one in.

Has anybody else experienced this issue?
 

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I've always had a hard time getting mine out..... Never had to do that though.
 

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No, although one of my cars is harder than the other; maybe a bad mount, lol.

I'd buy a relocation kit, and remove the orig in pieces if necessary; no way I'd do it more than once. :D Guess that's just me.

BTW MikeB , you don't play crysis wars under that handle do you?
 

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When I was getting ready to put the big bore 2V with new cylinder heads back into my '97 earlier this summer, I discovered that the solid rubber engine mounts I got from SCP three years ago were damaged. After considering the options, I bought a set of polyurethane mounts from Chuck Warren. Those mounts were very nicely constructed and came with high quality fasteners. When connecting the exhaust system to the headers, I noticed that the engine sat slightly lower in the chassis, but I was able to bolt the parts together and did not worry about the minor misalignment.

I had not seen any other consequences until today, when I attempted to change the oil and filter. With the engine sitting slightly lower, I was unable to remove the oil filter after unfastening it from the engine. I tried every orientation I could think of, but none worked. There was just not enough room between the power steering pump and the front antiroll bar. In the end I had to remove the engine mount to subframe bolt and jack the engine up in order to get the old filter out and the new one in.

Has anybody else experienced this issue?
i built my own motor mounts. i tried to stay on oem specs. so far so good. i hope i dont run into the same problem (haven't tried to change my oil yet though)
 

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I used to run a V6 solid rubber mount on the LH side, it was taller than stock and it made changing my oil filters effortless. Now I am back with a home made polyurethane mount and it is about like changing the oil filter with a stock mount, so yes motor mount height does come into play here. You can always put a washer or two between the upper bracket and the insulator part of the mount to help increase clearance on the bottom side.
 

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I used to run a V6 solid rubber mount on the LH side, it was taller than stock and it made changing my oil filters effortless. Now I am back with a home made polyurethane mount and it is about like changing the oil filter with a stock mount, so yes motor mount height does come into play here. You can always put a washer or two between the upper bracket and the insulator part of the mount to help increase clearance on the bottom side.
would't changing the engine mount height change the driveshaft to pinion angle and cause problems?
 

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Yeah thats always something to think about, but I never had any chronic vibrations or anything while running the v6 mount on the LH side. I didnt like knowing how one side was different than the other and I made a polyurethane mount for the LH side and it has been great for years. If you are talking about using washers to shim the engine upwards, it will affect pinion angle, but not by very much at all since we are talking about raising the engine no more than 1/4" or so. A difference that small could possibly be adjusted for at the pinion by adding washers between the front bushing sleeves and the subframe. There was some talk about properly adjusting pinion angle on here years ago using an angle finder on the u-joint cap and washers on the differential case(front bushing sleeves). I cant remember if I kept the washers after I put in the poly differential bushings or not. I dont really care anymore, but I am glad you brought it up. I will have to check this out on the new car.

On a side note, in my 92 LS years ago, I lifted the engine by about 3/8" or so after I installed my new oil pan because the stock one was cracked just below the drain plug boss. I never scraped the oil pan again and sold the car a year or so later when I decided I would never own another car with the 3.8l.
 

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.....I had not seen any other consequences until today, when I attempted to change the oil and filter. With the engine sitting slightly lower, I was unable to remove the oil filter after unfastening it from the engine. I tried every orientation I could think of, but none worked. There was just not enough room between the power steering pump and the front antiroll bar. In the end I had to remove the engine mount to subframe bolt and jack the engine up in order to get the old filter out and the new one in.

Has anybody else experienced this issue?
Yes, I know this is an old thread, but had to ask a question as I had a similar problem recently. The question is:

Wouldn't it have been easier to loosen the sway bar mounts and links on the filter side and move the sway bar out of the way? Thats what I did when I couldn't get my filter out.
 

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Yes, I know this is an old thread, but had to ask a question as I had a similar problem recently. The question is:

Wouldn't it have been easier to loosen the sway bar mounts and links on the filter side and move the sway bar out of the way? Thats what I did when I couldn't get my filter out.
My roommate was one of the first people to use these mounts in a mark8 if not the first to find out with a mark8 you can't get the oil filter out. I already relocated my filter in anticipation of this problem as I knew it was certain with an addco 1.25" bar up front there was no way my filter was coming off. Your other alternative is to use a short filter and have it last not as long as the bigger style. I have a set of chuckw mounts I wanted to put in but the bolts seem seized to the block. I actually posted a thread about my roommates discovery a long time ago. Btw he got it out by crushing the filter.
 

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If he had to crush the filter to get it out, how did he get the new one in?
 

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There Is A Smaller Oil Filter

IT,S AND OTHER THAN FRAM AND MOTORCRAFT A 2500 # DO A CROSS CHECK WITH OTHER VENTORS:rolleyes: IT,S LONGER AND THINER
 

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I have the same clearance problem after I installed a Cobra oil cooler on my 96 TBird. I cannot install a Motorcraft 820S filter because it will not clear the left side sway bar frame bushing. So I use a Purolator L10291 filter which is a little shorter and just fits. I would rather use an 820S, but the L10291 fits.

Mitch
 

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anybody know where to get a set of these poly mounts from Chuck? anything I can do to lower my engine height is a plus for hood clearance on my new setup..... Thanks!
 
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