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Discussion Starter #1
This is weird.....last time my oil was changed,i had it done at work...the previous oil change, I did myself. Now,i am trying to get the oil pan drain plug off, using an 18mm ratcheting wrench. The drain plug is now loose -I can spin it with my finger, and oil is dripping out, but the plug is not really backing out at all, could the thread be screwed up?
 

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Can you retighten it snug? Yeah its possible someone stripped your threads but you need a breaker bar to go that far. Hmm yeah I need to tighten this little bolts oh I know a 2 ft breaker bar will be perfect or what there is this impact gun hehe...just thinking some moron tech would try that at least once.
 

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Did you verify it wasn't the plug that was screwed up? They seem to be softer than normal bolts. You might need to GENTLY pry it away from the pan while turning it, something plastic so you can't put too much pressure on it.

My neighbor got sick of paying to get his oil changed, so he decided to do it himself. He had to borrow my 3 foot long breaker bar, the 1 1/2 foot long 1/2 drive ratchet didn't help over using a wrench! It was very obvious that it was improperly installed after the last oil change. The crush washer/seal it has was 3 times the diameter of the one he bought to replace it, and it was copper.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did not verify what the actual problem was...I could not get the drain plug off, and I could not get it tight...right now there is a very slow leak from the drain plug, a very small occasional drip, which sucks, this car doesn't leak anything.

It could just be the drain plug...so if I stick like a small screwdriver between the plug and the pan and loosen it should come out?

If the pan has to be removed to be re-tapped for, I am assuming a larger plug, it would seem the motor would have to come out, or at least be lifted up somewhat to get the pan out from between the suspension where it sits...
 

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You could retap the pan while still on the motor, however you NEED to be absolutely positive that there is no metal shavings left in the pan when you are done. Or kaboom!
 

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Dont plan before you know the facts.

Clamp visegrips on the head. Grab them right at the jaws and pull away hard and even to try to engage the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dont plan before you know the facts.

Clamp visegrips on the head. Grab them right at the jaws and pull away hard and even to try to engage the threads.
If that works, after the drain plug is out, should I just try to replace the drain plug?
 

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If that works, after the drain plug is out, should I just try to replace the drain plug?
Yep, double the crush washers just to be safe. I always tighten critical bolts like that with my thumb and index fingers around the ratchet body. IOW, choked up far as you can go.
Ask aty parts store for 'repair plugs'. But check that they are just slightly oversize, not ones that tap all new threads.

If you're worried about metal shavings, get a magnet wrap for your oil filter.
 

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when you get it out check the threads they might be ok or wrong plug or something; if not you will have to re-tap it. pour 2qts or so fresh oil through your car after u retap it to get the shavings out
 

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Something like this happened to my sister's Civic. Jiffy Lube cross threaded the bolt, so instead of telling us, they packed it with JB Weld and RTV. We had no idea until we took it to another service place to do the oil, they said "we're not getting into that mess". 3 days later the trans died, (obviously unrelated)
 

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when you get it out check the threads they might be ok or wrong plug or something; if not you will have to re-tap it. pour 2qts or so fresh oil through your car after u retap it to get the shavings out
Not to start a bicker but that's unlikely to work. find an old engine pan, clean it, throw some shavings in it then pour some oil in and watch what happens.

If it were me, I'd do almost anything to avoid a four hour job. But pulling pan to fix it is the best way to go for a purist.

First >>I<< would look close to see where threads were stripped, if it's on plug no problem, if not or partially, try a new plug with extra washer and only change oil myself.
SECOND: {assuming steel pan} If you can find a strong magnet use hi-temp rtv to fasten it under a protected corner of pan, use magnetic drain plug, magnet around oil filter.
 

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yea... it will get some of the shavings out but you need a magnet(s) to get rest out or remove whole pan; good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do our cars have a steel our an aluminum pan? Is there a nut welded on the inside of the pan, or is the inside of the opening of the pan itself threaded?
 

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As far as I know we have a steel pan, threaded into the opening itself. More importantly the last place to touch it is responsible for this. Take it back to your work and make them fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks....yes they are responsible...i am officially done with letting shops touch my stuff for things I can do myself...i am hesitant to say anything,i don't want to start any trouble, but we will see. I jammed a screwdriver between the pan and the plug and that seemed to engage the threads a bit...i am letting the oil drain...slowly then I will get the old plug out. I bought a new plug, hopefully it will just thread in without any problems
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I managed to get a screwdriver between the plug and pan, and it poped right out. After the oil drained, I looked at the plug. No threads ay all-smooth metal


I hope the threads in the pan are still there
 

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dam that sucks; if it's stripped you can install a time-sert if you are not going to replace the pan
 

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I would guess your okay as far as the pan is concerned. I have not seen an aftermarket replacement drain plug like that, but the factory Ford one from Ford is...like 10 bucks. It is a better setup, with a machined slot and an o-ring.

That drain plug has been abused for sure!
 
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