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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I cant find any definate instructions.
How hard is it to drop the K-member.
Whats hard, K-member or engine pull.
I'm ticked because now I cant drive my Cougar, the leak got worse when i brush the rust off and was going to JB Weld it. :xpcry: :xpcry:
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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I beleive you need some female torx sockets to remove the K-member. You should do any front suspension work at the same time.
 

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I've researched both lifting and dropping and I think the easiest way would be to drop the "K" Member.

Here's why I say that: To lift the engine, you have to disconnect almost all the connections. The radiator, power steering, A/C, etc. lines have to be disconnected along with some wiring.

To drop the “K” Member, all you should have to disconnect is the power steering lines to the rack. (And while it out, put in an Addco sway bar. :D) I don’t know about the suspension setup as I’ve researched this to coincide with a new suspension anyway. (Sorry)

But, I’ve never done either, so this is only an opinion. Someone should be able to chime in and let us know which way is best. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My suspension's pretty good. I'm gonna leave that go.
What am I looking at for a time frame to drop the K-member, switch pans and put it back together.
Also what's a good spot to put a support beam to hold the engine up.
Between the fenders? Also where should I hook the beam to to support the motor. I've pulled older motors before but not a newer motor with so much aluminum.
 

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I have one of those support beams from Harbor Freight and I had planned on hooking it up to where the alternator mounts. But I wanted to put some type of swivel so it wouldn't put the tabs in a bind.

Where I planned to put the cross brace is just on the inside of the fenders. With the hood up, it would be where the fenders mount.

But again, that is just my plan. I haven't actually done it yet. This idea might not be the best way to go.

If you do your's let me know how it went. :D
 

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Mushroom Stamp Layer
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When JT and I did my rod bearings we used a piece of wood and a jack by the tranny end of the motor to help it out...removed the alternator and hooked up the engine hoist there to hold the motor up.
<img src="http://members.tccoa.com/seabass55/carup.jpg">
 

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Mushroom Stamp Layer
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Oh and before you start get an E18 inverted torx bit for the k-member bolts. I recommend getting it before you start since they don't ever seem to be the easiest things to find.
 

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Overkill Fetish Freak
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I need to drop mine for the header install and I'm so not looking foward to doing that JOB. I was never a big fan of having the fenders support the weight so I say do it the hoist way like C explained.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I'm not looking forward to this either.
E18 inv. torx, torque, and strandard sockets/wrenches and other standard tools are all ill need right? No other special crap.
Now about the Mark pan. Is it aluminum? What has to be modified to make it fit. I've heard something about the power steering or tranny lines or something, but havnt got a definate answer.
Oh, and will I need an alignment after it's put back together?
Sorry for all the questions, but I havn't dropped any subframes before.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont know how good of an idea this is, but my dad kinda thinks I should do it.
Would it be safe to weld a piece of metal over the pan, (the hole is on the bottom).
Of course I would get as much oil out as I could, but would it cause problems or be dangerous to weld it on the vehicle. I will not trust JB-Weld but it seems to me that if it's safe that a welded patch would be the cheapest way to go. (covered with POR-15 of course)
any opinions appreciated.
 

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Sure, weld it on. When it does not work and your oil pours out all over the ground while going down the road at 70 MPH please do not think of us. Wouldn't it be better to do it right? If you must weld it then take the pan off and clean it first! I still think a new pan is the best choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's not the comfort part, I feel confident I can do it.
But I don't wanna:tongue:
Well, i figured if I could clean it up real good and have a nice patch TIG'ed over it and some POR15 over it it would be fine.
My dad just thought I should do it that way.
He was checking shops already but I told him I'm doing it.
I guess i'm, in for some fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, when I'm taking the steering stuff apart (tie-rod ends and such) do I need any new fasteners (torque-to-yield stuff) or is all the old stuff fine
also where would I get a seal for the power steering line, my chilton's said something about it.
Last question (hopefully) what am I gonna have to do to bleed the air out of the power steering after I put it back together.

My dad seemed insistent on me taking the easy route and patching it so i had to ask. I told him I'm not getting a used pan and I'm not repairing it. He also called up a couple shots about it. I'm not dumping an extra $250 into this.
I just ordered the pan from fordparts.com so hopefully itll get here soon (with July 4th weekedn and all)
 

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Mushroom Stamp Layer
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it's just one bolt to take out and you're done with the steering part.

the seal you are talking about is a must because your old one WILL be trashed. It's like a dollar or so from Ford..i'll look up the part number..I wrote it down somewhere.

<img src="http://members.tccoa.com/seabass55/kmember2.jpg">
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cool, thanks
do you think I could leave the upper controlarms and struts connected, it doesn't look like I need That much room. I guess I'll find out though.
 

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I'd hate to be the front end tech doing the alignment on that puppy when it gets back together! Tell me more about this seal....is it the seal that goes between the power steering pump and the line that goes to the rack & pinion?
 

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Mushroom Stamp Layer
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Yes that's exactly what the seal is for....you can't miss it it's a little white piece of plastic that I stuck on hot water to soften up so it would fit on. Cake.

I had to take the front shocks off because the kmember wouldn't slide out with them on. It's two bolts to take those out...probably the easier part.
 
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