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Discussion Starter #1
OK gang, here's one for you:

I did the mod for the oil pressure gauge (to make it "real" vs. a switch) and here's what I got:

1. With just the sending unit installed, the gauge reads between low and "N" at warm/idle (the check gauge light sometimes comes on), and "R" at cruise.

2. After bypassing the 20 Ohm resister behind the gauge, the gauge now reads "O" at warm/idle almost pegs at cruise (the needle is in the middle of the "High" bar :eek: )

So what now, do I put a 10 Ohm resister in, or what? :2huh:

But I do like the way it acts like a guage should. :thumbsup:
 

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Mine does the same thing, the needle spends the majority of its time at or near the top of the gauge. I think that is why the high end of the gauge is white instead of red. Red would indicate a problem, where as white just indicates the edge of the gauge. I suppose you could try a different resistor if you want it to read lower. I haven't done anything to it and didn't really plan on it either.
 

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ok i never knew we could swap out our sending unit and have a funtional oil guage......What sending unit do you have to use?

-Derrick-
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From the Tech Article: "Engine" --> "How to Convert your Oil Pressure Gauge":

Standard Motor Products: PS-60
Echlin: OP6091
Motorcraft: SW-1547-B, E4ZZ-9278-A


I didn't have the article with me when I bought mine, so I just got one for an 85 Mustang 5.0 and it crossed over to the PS-60 (At least at AutoZone it did)

My main concern is with the reading so high, how low will the pressure have to drop before the "Check Gauge" (oops, sorry, "gage" :D ) light comes on.

I think I'll hook up a digital gauge temporarily and find out exactly what the pressure is in relation to the dash gauge.

Thanks for the replies. :thumbsup:
 

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My old sender had taken a crap, it had gotten to the point where the check gauges light was always on. I knew it was the sender, but it sure makes you paranoid seeing that light come on.
 

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derricks is on b/c of his guage swap...couldnt you use a 5 or 10 ohm resistor like you said and be well off?...tell me how this works out for ya i want to do it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I have decided on my final solution. It’s a little “involved”, but well worth it (IMHO):

Step 1: Temporarily install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and measure the actual pressures at idle, cruise, cold, etc.

Step 2: Splice a variable resister (0 - 500 ohm) into the jumper wire I installed per the TCCoA article instructions.

Step 3: Adjust the resister to set the needle as needed. I’ll set the needle so that when the needle is half way between “N” and “Low”, it will trigger the “Check Gauge” indicator.

This way, I will have a calibrated oil pressure gauge, but the check gauge indicator will still work. :D

I’ll let everyone know how this comes out. :thumbsup:
 
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