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Discussion Starter #1
Hey my gauge keeps droppin' now I know it's not supposed to be a real gauge but I'm worried seeing as that's exactly why my '92 is being parted......what should i do?
 

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In addition to Master486's suggestions, you may simply want to clean the connector stem on the oil pressure sender and the inside of the connector cap. I do this every time I do an oil change. A few shots of brake cleaner, swab with a Q-tip, then a few shots of electrical cleaner, and swab with a Q-tip. If the cap seems a little loose, you could lightly crimp it so the fit is snug, but not overly tight so you can't disconnect it...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The oil isn't low it's dead on....and it only does it around 2000 rpm......i hit 2500 and it goes back up.....its best at idle though
 

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1) have you converted the gauge so that it is a real gauge instead of a fancy idiot light? (I.E. it reads variable pressure, not "on or off")

2) If you have, have you considered installing an aftermarket gauge to back up the factory unit?

3) of course, follow the advice given above.
 

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no its the stock gauge but it reads like a varible sometimes..it makes me wonder
Then it sounds like a faulty sending unit or a bad connection (electrical) to the sending unit.
 

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I'm on my 3rd sending unit, if I rev the engine above 3,000 rpm the gauge will drop like a rock and the idiot light comes on:confused: , checked it with a mechanical gauge and it holds about 60 psi hot,:D I'm going to do the gauge mod this time.
 

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yep ,must be common with these motors/sending units, cuz my factory guage does wierd stuff like some times it reads perfect pressure, or other times, it says theres low pressure, when really my engine is fine, and at WOT it drops like a rock, then goes back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay I replaced the sending unit and then i had a leak....I took it back off and noticed a crack in the unit.....i got another and put in on but while tightening the cast aluminum on the engine broke off in my hand.......is the oil filter assembly replaceable?????

HELP!!!
 

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Well, you overtightened your sender. The sender/oil filter adaptor is pipe thread, which is tapered, in other words, it's not like a bolt where the threads are the same all the way down, they actually get bigger up top. The sensor is steel and the adaptor is cast aluminum. If you overtighten the sender, the threads are bigger the more you tighten it and eventually you will expand the threaded hole to the point where it will crack/break.
Ask me how I know...lol.
I replaced mine and it really isn't that bad of a job. I replaced mine on a full-frame car-I would imagine that replacing it on a car with shock towers might be more of a PITA but definitely doable. I got the part from Ford but you could probably get one from a boneyard, as almost any 4.6 will have these adaptors. Markviii, Town Car, Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, some Mustangs will have this adpator as well as the T-Birds and Cougars. If you remove one from the boneyard it will save you a bunch because I believe when I got mine it was over $200 where the junkyard part is like $20. While it's off you might as well replace the gasket too.
Drain the coolant down and you don't even have to drain the oil but it's not a bad idea. You do have to remove the filter though. It's pretty straightforward: remove the old part/gasket, replace with new part/gasket. When replacing the sender on the new piece, use a good-quality thread sealant such as Permatex-and DON'T OVERTIGHTEN IT.
Just snug it up good-the thread sealant will keep it from leaking. I use steel-braided hose to a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the cabin of the vehicle. With this setup I have absolutely NO LEAKS and NO PROBLEMS after almost 100K miles. Sorry to hear that this happened to you, but it happened to me and I got my ass out of a jam-I'm sure you can too.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the help....it wasn't that bad.....at least thats what my mechanic said!!!!!! I gave up after one bolt.....
 
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