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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EGR, IAc, new battery,alt, now wha?

ok, so i've replaced the IAC, the EGR cleaned the EGR tube, throttle body ect.. i even changed the alt + just bought a brand new alt.. so i let the car run, for 15-20 min, and it did the same thing as always... just died out, and didnt want to come back on. so i'm doing everythign i can, the MAF i bought is from someone on here a year or so ago.. and it seems to be working fine, my dad says maybe it's the ' sensor ' with the filter in it, with the red and green vacuum lines that goes to the EGR ... he also just asked me to ask you guys what and where ( pic if you have one please!!! ) the DPFE sensor is? ( is it the one with the vacs behind the throttlebody ) and what does the DPFE and PFC sensors do? he read them in the chilton book, just wants to hear it from someone with knowlodge on the cars.. thanks in advance!
 

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What diagnosis have you done? When it won't start does it have spark? Does it have fuel pressure? Does it have injector pulse? If you're just blindly changing parts with no diagnosis work, you're going to be there for a long time guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have no idea to tell youthe truth, it just doesnt turn over.. it clicks.. then if i wait 10 min, it turns back on.. i changed the fuel filter a few months ago.ect.. There's no local shops around that are not reasonable at all, they want 150 bucks to look a the car.. i'd rather sent that money on parts.. and hope it works.. they tried to charge me 300 to clean the trottle body... and another place 240.. i just wish i knew where to look, my father wants to know about the DPFE + PFC valves.. and there location, he says considering we've already replaced the IAc, egr, cleaned throtle body ect we might as well make all of it knew up there, cause it was pretty nasty.
 

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The dpfe sensor is behind the throttle body. Its a small gray and black box with 2 vaccum lines and an elecctrical connector running to it. Usually the dpfe is the culprit when getting egr error mesages like insufficient flow.
 

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If you are saying it clicks and won't turn over none of the things you have replaced have anything at all to do with the engine not rotating. Think starter, battery or cables. Start by checking battery voltage. This of course doesn't make sense if you say it is dying and then won't start unless you have a real bad grounding problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well, the reason i replaced the alt, was because i went to autozone.. and they put it on there alt ttester and said it was only pushing like 2 amps ... and they said that it was the problem....so i bought a new one.. then i brought my girls 93 3.8 bird up there a few weeks later cause the altenator was dead.. they put on tester.. and said the same thing.. ( so i found out there tester was broken ) i fought with them about it.. and said i want my money back for mine, and i'd just use my old one cause it was obviously fine.. but they refused... so it's just another thing i've replaced... and the battery was a last min thing, last night i relized i got a week till the warrenty is up.. maybe there was just a dead cell or something, so i exchanged for a new one.
 

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If you are saying it clicks and won't turn over none of the things you have replaced have anything at all to do with the engine not rotating. Think starter, battery or cables. Start by checking battery voltage. This of course doesn't make sense if you say it is dying and then won't start unless you have a real bad grounding problem
I agree. From what I can understand of your posts, it sounds like a bad ground when you're trying to start it.

NEVER try to diagnose a problem with your wallet, it usually just adds a lot of costly and unnecessary "repairs."

You need to get some diagnostic tools and find out facts about it. That is what kdanner was eluding to. Are the coil packs and plug wires all firmly plugged in? Are all of the injectors plugged in? Are all of the other sensors plugged in (IAC, MAF, etc.)? Get a noid light; are all the injectors getting a signal to open? Get a spark tester; are all of the spark plugs getting spark? What is your fuel pressure?

Checking these basic things is always less expensive than just throwing parts at it, and you learn for a certainty what is going wrong. These tools are all relatively inexpensive, and are invaluable when you're having car issues.

Finally, diagnosing car problems is hard enough over the internet. Explaining them in clear English using proper grammar is essential if you want to convey the symptoms your car is having, and wish to get a helpful response. I have learned a lot from these forums, and this, as well as learning not to just throw new parts at a problem have been by far, the most valuable lessons.

-Rob
 
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