How hard would it be and what parts are needed to make an open diff into a trac loc? Could I just get a rebuilt Trac Loc unit and swap it in or is there a lot more to it than that?
Thanks.
Scott
Cheapest way is to get a mustang traction lock and machine the gears. Otherwise you need an SC traction lock. I do suggest new bearings while you have it apart. I generally charge $250 in labor to build one if that gives you an idea of what it takes. You will need some special tools to do it right.
Alan
I have been searching and have not gotten a convincing answer on this: is it okay to just leave the circlip off of the axle, and not have the gears machined? I would think there would be no problem unless more is wrong. I read that driller said it was okay, but has there been any problems to anyone's knowledge?
I swapped out my open diff in my '95 to a unit from a S/C. Had the clutch pack redone, all new fluids, and a nice set of used 3:55 gears. Probably OK if you use 3:27, but the Trac-Lok is a significant upgrade.
I got the best deal on ebay .
Got pretty much the whole IRS from a 99 cobra except for brakes ,springs and shocks for 350.00 sold everything but the frame and differential .
The Differential fits right in with my old half shafts , maybe I got lucky .
Tinman, Did the V8s come with 8.8's or 7.5's? I forgot the language on the window sticker of my V6 bird, but I thought it had a 8.8. Was wrong. Just a 7.5 with a TracLok.
just about every cougar or T-bird I have seen that had disk brakes in the rear came with a 8.8 diff whether it was a V6 or V8. in the yard I work in there are 3 cars with a E code (3.27 TL). One is a V8 with drum brakes the other 2 are V6's with disk brakes. all 3 have a 8.8 .
Clint, were they 97s? I think that might be the key here. On the 97 Ford was cheaping out every way they could. All my springs have failed, and one of the replacements too. I can't wait for other things to go south, so am upgrading as fast as I can.
The big thing to remember is that if you put together the rear end without machining the gears, it is almost impossible to get the axles out.
Some people have said that leaving the circlip off makes this moot, but I wonder about the inner CV joint moving around... I know the axle can't come out, but this seems dangerous, somehow.
Wasn't it kdanner that posted about the 'difficulty' of removing the axles, with a bent toward violence?
I know Bill @ SCP recently purchased a bunch of these and they are all IRS capable. If you are in the need for one I suggest calling him first to see what kind of deal he can make you.
Alan
Assuming you're starting out with an open 8.8 - what about an aftermarket piece like a Detroit True Trac, etc? Setup labor is probably the same and certainly easier to find if budget permits.
I found a great deal on a rebuilt traction lock unit and installed it into the housing. I am now running a 3.31 gear ratio, testing out how I like it compared to the 3.73, so far so good. I am now debating what 3.55 would do. It is kinda nice have 2 diffs, 1 installed and 1 to play around with.
I did buy a dial indicator with a magnetic base to check the backlash and it was fine. I didn't mess with the pinion gear in the housing, so I didn't play with pinion depth. All and all, I learned a few things with some help the people on here.
Thanx
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