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Discussion Starter #1
From what I can gather there are about three types of limited slip rear ends available (someone correct me if I'm wrong):

OEM Traction lock (either with a standard clutch stack/spring setup, or the updated clutch stack/F150 spring)

Auburn (with cone type clutches (542079, High Performance Series or 542080 Pro Series)

Torsen (M-4204-T28)(with http://www.torsen.com/files/Traction_Control_Article.pdf )

Can anyone provide their opinions and/or thoughts on each type? Pro's/Con's, Best per application (i.e. street, strip, etc.) etc?
 

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You missed one, the True-Trac 912A562.

I run the Torsen in my SC, and have the True-Trac diffs in my Cobra and LSC.

Nothing to wear out, expensive, but worth every penny.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You missed one, the True-Trac 912A562.

I run the Torsen in my SC, and have the True-Trac diffs in my Cobra and LSC.

Nothing to wear out, expensive, but worth every penny.
Thanks!

Any Pro's/Con's between the two you've run?

Does the True-Trac work fine with the half shaft clips even thought it is listed for a C-Clip axle?
 

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Thanks!

Any Pro's/Con's between the two you've run?

Does the True-Trac work fine with the half shaft clips even thought it is listed for a C-Clip axle?
The True-Trac p/n I listed is the later model and will work fine with the IRS axle clips, I installed one just last year in my LSC.

Different manufacturers, same concept, I can't tell the difference between the two on the street or the strip.

Between the Torsen and the True-Trac, I'd just get the one that's less expensive. Over the years, I've been able to find some goods deals on each.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool! Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:

Just for everyone else's info (ballpark pricing):
OEM: $270
Auburn: (542079/542080): $500/$470
FRPP: (M-4204-T28): $550
True-Trac: (912A562): $450
 

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Yeah, nothing wrong with running an OEM TL for all street cars. Save the money.

If the aftermarket Auburn cone types are like Mopar Sure Grips (also a cone type) they can't get rebuilt when worn out.....at least not easily or worth a damn after that.

Buyer beware: make sure you check and specifically ask for all such related info.
 

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What breaks in them? I was looking at one to use...
 

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I'm not planning on racing mine, just street driving with occasional aggressive driving or a drag strip/road course. So just look at a plain ford parts catalog or rock auto for a TL 3.27 or 4.11 rear gear with TL?
 

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By the time you see it it is hard to figure what let go first, I guess the carrier.
Alan
:rofl:

Hard to diagnose pieces and shavings, lol.

These never break at 100hp; it's always WOT with nitrous, boost, whatever... :D

I guess in some cases you just hope you can reuse the housing. :)
 

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For an IRS car, I would just use a regular Ford Trak-Lok. You can usually pick up a used diff for under $100, then the rebuild kit with all the new clutches is about $60 on ebay. With a solid axle car, the axle gets twisted by the motor, which effectively puts ore weight on the right rear, and takes weight off the left rear. In that case, you need a more solid connection between the 2 wheels to keep them both spinning at the same rate, but with an IRS car that loading doesn't happen anymore, so both wheels basically have the same weight on them, so it takes the same amount of power to break them loose, so you don't need as tight a connection between the 2. In a solid axle car, even moderate power can overpower the stock trak-lok, and in that case it would be worth it for the Torsen, but with IRS, it simply isn't an issue.
 
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