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P1443

2K views 32 replies 6 participants last post by  T6Rocket 
#1 ·
Okay, so two years ago I got the P1443 and replaced all the evap hoses with fuel line and both electrical parts. I should say, all but one hose, the one closest to the fuel tank. I was pretty sure I could get that one off, but not sure at all I could get a new hose on there because it looked like I would be using one finger from each hand since it's so tight.

I got the 1443 code yesterday, and I am getting a slight gasoline smell from the fuel filter area. Any tips on replacing that hose? Any other fuel tank vent hoses besides the EVAP hose?

Thanks,
Al
 
#2 ·
Did you get the one under the wheelwell cover?

Counting the one by the tank, there are Eight pieces of hose in that line.
 
#3 ·
Yes, I found the old write-up and did 7 out of 8. I had the wheelwell cover off, rebuilt the whole setup. It's the one by the fuel tank that's tough. I guess I have more incentive to do it now, lol!

If I open the gas door and get down near the cap, it smells a little like gas, but I guess you're always gonna have that somewhat.

Al
 
#4 ·
Look and see if the evap solenoid/cannister is still attached where it's supposed to be in front of the air filter.

I had one drop off the mount that holds it, and end up laying in the nose.

It leaked, lol.
 
#5 ·
I pulled the fender liner out, and the work I did two years ago looks great. I replaced two hoses again near the fuel filter and one under the hood for good measure because I could turn them a little, but the light keeps coming back on after I reset the code about 5 miles on the dot!

Both the solenoid and the flow sensor were replaced with Ford units two years ago along with the hoses. Can the solenoid go bad that fast?

The gas cap o-ring seems pretty pliable, though you can smell gas a little if you put your nose right by it..

Al
 
#6 ·
The BWD solenoid I put on my Cougar stopped working after a year. It was frustrating because I had replaced all the lines and the sensor as well. I would assume that the Motorcraft would be better quality. Probably worth taking it off and checking it out. You can get access to it easily by going through the hole the air filter snorkel was, if you deleted it
 
#7 ·
Did you replace the line at the gas tank?

IIRC, it's on the pass side, about as far up as you can reach, between the tank and the body.
 
#8 ·
I didn't replace it because it looks and feels perfectly fine, plus it's in a tight spot. It looks like you would have to hold the upper line with pliers, which might crack it. That is a tight spot with no way to move the fuel lines out of the way.

Are there any hidden ones above the fuel tank?

I guess I should just do it to finish it off, but the way to light comes back on after only 4-5 miles makes me think it's something more serious, like one of the sensors.

Al
 
#9 ·
That error is for the purge valve, which is the one beside the charcoal canister.

I'd drag it out, and see what the deal is; you can put 12V on the solenoid, and should hear it open/close.
 
#10 ·
Actually, I just looked up my Amazon orders, it was only last year I replaced all that ****! So they lasted only one year. Motorcraft too. Those parts are $52 each. The old parts might have not been bad, I still ha ve them

Do the gas caps ever go bad? I see you can still get the FC926 cap. Only $14, might as well. You can smell gas a little if you get down right by the cap. I never get a hiss when I take off the cap when the tank is low, though I can't recall if my 95 did either.

Al
 
#11 ·
Supposedly, leaving the gas cap off of our cars doesn't trigger an error; your car is not seeing flow when the solenoid is kicked, IIRC.

It can tell if no flow, or flow without solenoid, but I think that's it.
 
#12 ·
Ironically, the light was on and off yesterday, and has been off today so far. So now we've moved to "intermittent" status, lol!

Al
 
#13 ·
I replaced the gas cap anyway, which kept the light off for a week. Now it's back on.

When I put 12v to my spare solenoid, it clicks every time I touch it. When I put 12v to the newer one on the car, it only clicks the first time I apply 12v, it won't click over and over again like my spare and sometimes not at all. Tested it a bunch of times.

Does that solenoid sound like it has an intermittent short? I didn't have time to swap it as rain was setting in.

Thanks,
Al
 
#15 ·
I replaced the gas cap anyway, which kept the light off for a week. Now it's back on.
Sounds even more like the problem I went though. I did the same thing and replaced the gas cap on my Cougar to try and fix that code. I would bet once you replace the solenoid the problem code is gone. Since I already replaced the solenoid a year prior I was being kind of stubborn, figured no way it would go bad after only a year.
 
#14 ·
No, it sounds like it's sticking the first time you pop it, and hanging up.

After a bit, it loosens up, and will pop again.

Try attaching a piece of hose to it, and see if you can blow thru it to verify that's what's happening.

I've ran into problems like this a bunch, over the years, on everything from typewriters to cars. :)

That would explain the intermittent code; it measures open and closed, and if it doesn't close, it will flag it.
 
#17 ·
I'll swap it in this weekend. That's a drag that a Motorcraft solenoid only lasted a year.

Thanks again,
Al
 
#18 ·
To re-cap, swapping in the old solenoid has kept the light off, but in an ironic twist, bench-testing the supposedly bad one - it appears to work perfect!

But I revived this thread because of a persistent gas smell that is strongest inside the passenger rear wheelwell right after running the car.

All the EVAP hoses are all replaced - except for the one near the fuel tank. But when I've climbed under the car to investigate, that hose looks and smells fine. The gas filler neck also appears to be fine. Gas cap is new. No smell from the filter area.

It seems it might be coming from above the fuel tank, possibly at one of the fuel line connections. The fuel pump has not been replaced - so no work has been done in that area.

Are the gas tank connections known to be troublesome? I've never seen how they are connected to the fuel pump hanger, but I have a feeling I might be soon.

Al
 
#20 ·
Are the gas tank connections known to be troublesome? I've never seen how they are connected to the fuel pump hanger, but I have a feeling I might be soon.

Al
It is not uncommon for the lines to develop pinholes from rubbing on the floor near the sending unit. When that happens, you get the fuel odor you're describing.
 
#19 ·
The only gas leak I ran into in my old rusty 96 thunderbird was the fuel filter, which was an easy replacement. It had some serious rust going on and it didn't leak fuel anywhere else. I have lowered the tank on my 96 Cougar a few times, its running the stock fuel pump and it doesn't leak from flexing it around. So I wouldn't expect those connections are prone to leaking. The connections Ford uses are quite robust. The ones I have worked with always come apart easily and don't leak
Have you checked/replaced the fuel filter? They can slowly seep if they are old and have surface rust.
 
#21 ·
I have replaced the fuel filter. No smell from that area. But definitely a fuel smell from somewhere - pretty much only right after driving the car.

Al
 
#24 ·
There's a rubber vent crossover above the driveshaft; I see it replacing the DS.
 
#25 ·
How hard is it to replace that crossover line?

I am still getting the faint gas smell after I drive the car then get out and walk around the car. The absolute worst was with a full tank of gas, parked uphill in a parking lot. Me and a buddy went to get in the car and I could smell it from 20 ft away. Does that give any clues to what hose I am dealing with?

Trying to piece clues together, Rob did add a Trak-loc and had the pumpkin out of the car 3 yrs ago. I wonder if that crossover vent got damaged or pinched in the process?

Thanks again,
Al
 
#26 ·
The line is at the back of the tank, and goes over the nose of the pumpkin. You should be able to get at it more easily if you drop the rear of the tank as low as it will go and let it hang on the exhaust. This is a picture that lets you see it (when I had the tank out and replaced the factory exhaust 10 years ago).

I have never tried to remove it, but I do remember I had no problems using it as a handle to carry the tank around when I had it out. My guess is it will put up a fight...

38920
 
#27 ·
Thanks! I'm guessing it's 2 ft or less and looks to be around 3/8" dia? Looks pretty robust. The driveshaft may have rubbed against it, who knows.

That's assuming that hose is the issue. Like I said, STRONG gas smell when parked on an incline with a full tank. I may leave this job to Rob, in case it ends up being one of the fuel pump hoses in front.

Al
 
#28 ·
Yeah, maybe 16 or 18" long is my guess, but I think it's probably closer to 1/2" or 5/8" in diameter. Also check the clamps for the filler and vent hoses (passenger side rear of tank) in case they're leaky. If it's worst when you're parked on an uphill incline, it would be logical to assume the smell/leak is from the rear of the tank.
 
#29 ·
I disconnected one end of it when I installed my Walbro, it’s awful. The pump related portion was the easier part of the task than disconnecting that dumb hose to get the tank low enough.

That said it’s pretty robust, mine had no dry rot compared to other rubber fuel lines so I just reused it. The evap hose section was the one that was crumbling
 
#30 ·
I climbed under the car and all those hoses look fine. I snugged up all the clamps for good measure. The only place I found a faint gas smell was if I stuck my nose up near the fuel pump. Rob was thinking it could be the fuel pump gasket. Currently planning on having him replace the whole fuel pump assembly, and any of the other lines that look questionable.

Al
 
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