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Discussion Starter #1
I know that 99% of a good paint job is in the prep before you spray anything, however is one brand of paint better than another? I am going to repaint my cougar in the original color. I just don't want to get some cheap paint that will fade/chip or otherwise fail. Would 2 to 3 coats of clear coat help with chip protection or would it look like a floor with too much wax on it? Living down in the South with dingaling gravel truck drivers who don't put a tarp on their loads and getting stuck behind one hauling sand, chipping is a MAJOR problem. Any help would be appreciated
 

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YES one brand of paint is better than the other HoK and PPG are good but there are many other good brands i'd to some research on that.

Regarding a shiny paint job - lay your clear on as heavy (wet) as possible without getting a ton of runs, a few runs are okay because they can be fixed with a nib file and run blocker. then park the car in a WELL VENTILATED area for the next 24 hours to let the gasses escape properly to prevent dulling (dieback). then if you are not satisfied with your result you can wetsand away the bumps (orange peel) and dust nibs with 1500 grit wet sandpaper, then cut and polish back to a beautiful shine.

do 2 to 3 coats of clear. less than 2 coats and your clear will be too thin to allow wetsanding cutting and polishing. more than 3 coats and that will MAKE YOUR PAINT WEAKER! yes believe it or not, a thicker paint will make your paint more brittle and allow the rock chips to affect it more! the main thing i can tell you to stop rock chips is 1 - not too much paint and very important 2 - add flex additive!

flex additive makes your paint less brittle, and when rocks hit it the paint is allowed to flex a little with the impact then go right back into place. if you don't believe me how important flex additive is, look at how many rock chips are on your hood, and how few rock chips are on your bumper, keeping in mind your bumper is LOWER so it gets hit by MORE ROCKS! your bumper has less rock chips because the paint has FLEX ADDITIVE!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got a quote today from a body shop and they said that they put on 3 coats of paint, sealer, and 1 coat of clear. $150 for each additional coat after that. Isn't 3 coats of paint a bit too much? I think I'd rather have 2 coats of paint and 2 coats of clear. It's going to be $650 for the basic 3 coats of paint, 1 coat of sealer and 2 coats of clear. That's with a 6 month warranty. Now here's the deal. I am rather anal retenative about my car's looks, and am worried that they are going to half a$$ do the prep work, but I don't know what questions to ask. I know how to prep but don't have a garage or shop or anything else big enough to do it in. Should I invest in a tempoary garage (pvc pipe and visqueen (plastic) a/c filters and some large fans), paint gun, supplies, and some other stuff and do it myself or just plunk down the money and trust them to do a good job? I guess if they didn't do a decent job, I could take them to small claims court.
 

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ok you guys your paint cannot excede 8 mils wich is the thickness of a sheet of typing paper. If your car is 3 to 4 with stock paint job and your stock paintjob is in good shape no peeling or line cracking or checkering. Then is ok to repaint over it.IF NOT YOU WILL NEED TO STRIP IT DOWN TO BARE METAL. you nee a mil thickness gauge to measure the stock paint first. 3 coats of clear is a must but on the base coat all you need is enough for coverage genarally 2 coats That's it. you don't need sealer unless your changing colors or covering bodywork and primer.I went to school for autobody and i will say this from experiance. It would be better to pay to have it done. reason #1 getting good ventalation is a must.#2 dealing with insects and dirt by doing it in a garage like you want to do.I have been there done that it sucks. #3 PAYING FOR A GOOD QUALITY SPRAY GUN CAN COST FROM 200 TO 1,000 BUCKS.I have a 300 dallar devilbiss wich is not cheap if your not going to use it more than once. #4 even buying the materials cost me 1,000 to paint my car at school and another $500 when i repainted my hood spoiler and mirriors. That is just my 2 cent's
 

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for that price they quoted you what brand paint are the shooting and clear? The prep includes if you want it done right. #1 wash n dry car very well. #2 remove bumpers/mirrors/body moldings/window trim /tailights/corner lamps/ If no body work is needed then use wax n grease remover on the entire car. Then sandfix the whole car useing gray scuff pad and 400 grit wet paper. dry entire car and tack it off with a tack cloth. mask car off then tack cloth it again and then shoot your base and clear. there are a few more step in there if car needs bodywork and or changing paint color.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The guy said unik or something that sounds like that. I have come to the conclusion that I am going to repair the 2 small dents in the wheel arch in the rear 1/4 panel and remove as much trim as possible ( I still gotta drive this thing to his shop). The car has been repainted at least once by the original owner (fender bender) and that painting was poorly done (taping job sucked, paint peeling, not glossy at all, feels like an orange, brittle, you name it.) I think it was done with a case of wal whore .97 a can spray paint. Thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it

Joe
 

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I just went today and got an estimate to repaint my bird. Basically to drop it off as is...they remove/install the moldings, bumbers, etc paint/materials was about $1200 labor was about $3000. The car is currently black, thinking of going with black or something black with metallic in it. looking at a base and clear coat. They say they don't wet sand....and would only do 2 coats of clear.
 

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you only want 2 coats of clear in the end. I might do 3 coats, then wetsand and buff, but only for a show car. more clear=more brittle paint. beware someone who won't wetsand. ill charge extra for it cause its a horrific amount of work, but ill do it.
 
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