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Well I broke the DS door handle getting it off. A close inspection showed it was already and had been cracked for a while where the door latch rod attaches. A new Dorman replacement handle is on the way.

Is there any special prep needed when painting these? I'll be using Duplicolor Dark Toreador Red. I already have the paint and it matches the rest of the car amazingly well. I have Duplicolor Clear Coat also. The factory primer is a very light gray almost white. Any recommendations for a primer? Or just grab the lightest possible Duplicolor to avoid any issues? I assume I should scuff these with 400 grit. De wax them and prime them. Should I be using something like a primer with a flex additive or something like that?

I've painted all sorts of stuff and it always comes out pretty good. But not plastic door handles that will be flexing a bit.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Also looking at the broken handle I'm replacing. You can still grasp a sliver of the door handle that's attached and open the door. Both the factory latch and the Dorman replacement are hollowed out on the exterior side opposite from where the latch rod attaches from the inside. Would filling this void with something like JB Weld strengthen the assembly? Or is it pointless since they always seem to break the part of the latch that's towards the front of the car first.
 

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Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those! Way easier than pulling a set from the junkyard that is probably one pull away from snapping.

IME primer color makes very little difference when it comes to rattle can paints, it doesn't go on as translucent as real paint hand mixed and shot in a booth. Also I've never had good luck with Duplicolor clearcoats, the're always hazy and never cure to my satisfaction, I've had better luck using Rustoleum, just make sure whatever it is(enamel or lacquer) matches the color coat. I always use adhesion promoter on plastic parts, then primer, then color, then clear.

As for the void, there's always this method: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123878
 

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Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those! Way easier than pulling a set from the junkyard that is probably one pull away from snapping.

IME primer color makes very little difference when it comes to rattle can paints, it doesn't go on as translucent as real paint hand mixed and shot in a booth. Also I've never had good luck with Duplicolor clearcoats, the're always hazy and never cure to my satisfaction, I've had better luck using Rustoleum, just make sure whatever it is(enamel or lacquer) matches the color coat. I always use adhesion promoter on plastic parts, then primer, then color, then clear.

As for the void, there's always this method: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123878

Yeah I read that thread too. I felt it was easier just to buy a new one ;)

DTR (Dark Toreodor Red) ican be pretty translucent. Almost a like candy burgundy metallic. My experience is that film thickness will change the color slightly. It's very hard to touch up doing drop fills. I don't know in my case if I got that one magic rattle can or if Fords paint QC was very high but I sprayed some touch up spots on my parts car and the entire rear quarter and the match was exact. I've never had paint match like this. It's been 20 years since I've mixed and sold paint. I worked. at a PPG authorized retailer. Back then the whole computer paint matching systems were just coming out and they weren't this close. I'm hoping that I have the same luck on my daily driver with the paint matching as I did on my parts car.

When the rockers are patched up I'll probably get some paint computer matched to the car and spray both sides from the body cladding down. But for a door handle I'm fine with a rattle can.

I'll grab some adhesion promotor. I was suspecting thats would be what answer was.
 

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Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those!
Yeah, those Dorman door handles are on Rock Auto (at least, last time I checked), and they're all over eBay. I need to replace mine, and I've got a bunch (mostly Dorman) saved in my Wish List.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, those Dorman door handles are on Rock Auto (at least, last time I checked), and they're all over eBay. I need to replace mine, and I've got a bunch (mostly Dorman) saved in my Wish List.

Dennis
RockAuto and a few other places have them. I paid 34.00 shipped for one on eBay. Their are some cheaper ones being sold under a different part number (FOxxxxx) by places like AndysAuto Sport. And if you need both you can find a better price on the pair. The Dorman numbers are 80439 for the drivers side. And the passengers is 80440. At the end of the day I trust the Dorman will fit and function correctly so I paid the extra 10.00 bucks. The other brand is probably fine. I just have no experience with them and don't want to do this job over down the road.

And as much as I love spending a Saturday morning at a U Pull it yard it's a lot off work to get these off and there no garentee you going to get one off in one piece. I'm hoping that this shows up in time to get painted and ready to rivet on by Monday. I found a place to key a lock cylinder and just want to button the doors up and move on to other parts of the project. And it will be nice not to hear my GF complaint about the broken door handle.
 

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your handles are probably abs plastic, but an adhesion promoter wont
hurt. scuff with a grey scuff pad first. you can check w/ ford for handles.
vintage parts had my color so i bought a pair and put them away.
 

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I've always had luck finding OEM ones already in the correct paint code on ebay for around $50-60, which is cheaper than buying the aftermarket ones and having to paint them to match.
 

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I've always had luck finding OEM ones already in the correct paint code on ebay for around $50-60, which is cheaper than buying the aftermarket ones and having to paint them to match.
Ebays my first stop for this type of stuff but I came up empty handed. I Will be keeping my eyes open of course for some in the correct color. I'll have one passengers spare once I'm done parting the one car out. And I'll probably carefully glue the drivers side one with JB Weld or something and keep that too. It's only cracked. Not broken. Good for a spare. I've never broke a handle myself. This car came with the drivers side broken. I'm actually pretty used to grabbing the stub and popping it open..
 

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I broke driver side outer 97 handle and was told by the parts store that they can't get a dorman one in, perhaps they don't ship to canada.
Or parts person was lazy. they told me to go to the wreckers, but we don't have one here. and good luck on finding a 96 97....
 

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I broke driver side outer 97 handle and was told by the parts store that they can't get a dorman one in, perhaps they don't ship to canada.
Or parts person was lazy. they told me to go to the wreckers, but we don't have one here. and good luck on finding a 96 97....
That seems odd. I would grab one off of eBay. Most sellers will ship to Canada if you ask nice and pay the difference in shipping. I know when I was selling stuff I did. Even if I was listing USA only. It's not like it's restricted technology or anything. Last I knew Canada was our neighbor and friend ;)

I would think if they have other Dorman products they could get these. Maybe try a different store? The only rational reason I could possibly think of here would be if Dorman had a license from Ford to reproduce the handles and that license was limited to the U.S. I doubt there anything keep you from ordered one online.
 

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I grabbed a can of adhesion promoter and a can of gray primer. The adhesion promotors says to spray it over the primer and then top coat within ten minutes. I've never used this stuff. Does that seem right? I'd have thought that you would spray the adhesion promoter directly on the plastic. Then prime and paint the color coats and clear coat it.
 

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Scuff the handle up with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the adhesion promoter, then prime, then paint, then clear.
 

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Scuff the handle up with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the adhesion promoter, then prime, then paint, then clear.
Thank you. That was what I was planning. Sometimes you gotta ignore the directions ;)

Just wanted a conformation.

And the weather just cleared up so its time.

Gf thought she'd help by sanding it while I was at Brandon's yesterday. So all I have do is smooth it out some......;)
 

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I'm not entirely sure that the Dorman is quite as good as the factory handle. It feels a bit more flexible. This could be a good thing if the plastic is more resistant to cracking. The parts look to be identical other than the different casting numbers. The factory parts looks to be a tan nylon type material and the Dorman looks to be black ABS or something like that. We'll see how it feels once it's riveted on. If it ever stops raining here long enough for me to finish painting it.....

More concerned with how it handles cold weather. You'd like to think they would mould a replacement part out of something a bit better than the factory did. Time will tell.
 

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You'd like to think they would mould a replacement part out of something a bit better than the factory did. Time will tell.
Well, you've already got experience with Dorman suspension parts, so do you want to re-consider your statement? :diablo: :uppoint:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Could actually be better if they're ABS, that's what the 89-95 handles are and they're indestructible compared to the factory 96/7 handles
That's what I'm hoping.

Brandon I thought about that ;) but Ford no longer makes them and there weren't any used ones on eBay. The only other ones available looked like a knock off of the Dorman knock off of the Ford part. At least if this breaks on a cold day I won't need to call a wrecker ;)
 

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should be a code for the type of plastic on the back of the part
 

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Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those! Way easier than pulling a set from the junkyard that is probably one pull away from snapping.

IME primer color makes very little difference when it comes to rattle can paints, it doesn't go on as translucent as real paint hand mixed and shot in a booth. Also I've never had good luck with Duplicolor clearcoats, the're always hazy and never cure to my satisfaction, I've had better luck using Rustoleum, just make sure whatever it is(enamel or lacquer) matches the color coat. I always use adhesion promoter on plastic parts, then primer, then color, then clear.

As for the void, there's always this method: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123878

I'll admit to being underwhelmed by the Duplicolor clear too. I had already grabbed a can when you posted this and figured I use since I was sure it would be compatible. We'll see how it buffs out in a day or two. It's been totally crapoy for painting this think. Rain every day for the last two weeks or so. My original color coats of Dark Toreodor Red came out Blush Rose Metallic. I used up my partial can on the door handle wanted to spray just on more coat since I'd had to sand out a imperfection or two. Ran down to O'Reillys and grabbed a Can of Toreador Red Metallic. Sprayed on a light coat and was shaking the can when I noticed something ominous. Which was a label banner that said. "exact color match for GM cars" Do not pass go take one step back. Yep I'd grabbed to wrong paint. It's very very close. When the back to O'Reillys to grab the right can. And it turns out they had reset the paint section and the Fird DTR was now kept behind the counter. Except they were out till Thursday. Finally got the right paint and sprayed a few more coats. Then cleaned it.

I'll be honest. I've never used rust oleum for anything except shovels, lamp posts and rusty suspension bits. Never as a top coat. So are you referring to a RustOleum Auto product? A general purpose paint I'd find at Home Depot? Cause I'd like to get a can for the future. I'm hoping I can buff the current Duplicolor clear coat up acceptably in a day or two once it's dried. You think it's safe to give it a shot of the RustOleum over the Duplicolor Clear? If so I may wait until I can grab a can and reshoot it.


At this rate I should be done by Halloween.

The good news is I got a lock from Brandon. The locksmith around the corner says he can key it to the existing locks. Which is nice as the car came with one 30th Anniversay key I'd like to keep. I got the right rivets from Ford thanks to Rayos help. Harbor Frieght had the correct style riveter on sale. So once the locks done and the handles buffed I can finally finish this job up.
 
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