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Discussion Starter #1
http://m.ebay.com/itm/361185295474?nav=SEARCH

As the title says shes going to get painted. I have te typical flat ua black ebony paint now. Its to dull. I plan on going gunmetal grey. A glossier black/purple metallic or maybe even a food factory green.

I do touchup body work for a living. Boss does the panel and bumper painting so i have no clue as to what todo.

I know all the materials i need. I know i also need a gallon of paint. 3 quarts of clear, pai t reducer(1/2 gallon) and about 2 qusrts of activator for the clear.

I know with paint work the color rarely matters its the clear that brings the good shine and thats what i want.

Ice read about single stage paints and im sure im not going that route. Even tho its easier.

Im wanting to do a bc/cc setup.

Is this product any good its a kit type.

(Dumb phone posted it up top)

Because of the cold weather ill have to get fast or medium activator depending upon the weather n weekend i choose to start on.

Any advice for a persons first paint job. Im not new at it just never actually did the mixing and painting, besides touch ups and pint bottles.

I have did some bondo work where my door trims fell off and peeled down to baremetal. I ha e huge paint chips on the hood. How should i cover those or should i sand the whole thing down.

?.

Also seen at lowes they had different colors in metal rustoleum paint and seen a few paint jobs done like that on the internet but i dont see myself using that kind of paint even though it has a good shine aswell.
 

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That link you posted is for single-stage paint. You can't just clear over single stage, you will need regular basecoat. All the chips and scratches need to be sanded down to bare metal, feathered out, primed, sanded again, then painted. A rule of thumb is if you can feel it in primer, you will see it in the paint. Also, if you want it to look good, take your time in the prep stage. Remove everything you can, moldings, mirrors, handles, bumpers, lights, windows, etc. The more you remove, the better job it will be. Also make sure everything is thoroughly cleaned, including any dirt or crud inside jambs. This will help make sure that you don't get too much dirt in the paint. After all that, my next advice would be to spend some time with the gun practicing on some cardboard to get a good feel for it before anything gets sprayed onto the car. Make sure you get a good wet coat without any runs, and overlap your spray pattern by 50% to make sure you don't get any tiger striping.
 

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The Rustoleum paint from Lowe's looks like garbage on anything you put it on. Durable, I am sure, but all orange peel. Rattle cans are for small parts only.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Rustoleum paint from Lowe's looks like garbage on anything you put it on. Durable, I am sure, but all orange peel. Rattle cans are for small parts only.

Al

Let me kbow if this is what i need

Mixing cups. Air mask small paint stixks etc.
1.4m spray gun for base coat.
1.3-1.5m gun for clear. Will use the 1.4 just a tad more psi.
1.8m gun for primer.
1 gallon base coat.
1 quart 2k reducer(turns 1 gallon paint into 2)
3quart or 1 gallon 2k clear
Clear fast reducer(some ppl call it activator etc. It has to be fast because itll be below 70 when ill be spraying.)

Is that all?
 

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What about sand paper? Scotch brite pads? Masking tape and paper? Tack cloth? Thinner to clean the gun? Flex additive for the bumper covers? Body filler for minor dings?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What about sand paper? Scotch brite pads? Masking tape and paper? Tack cloth? Thinner to clean the gun? Flex additive for the bumper covers? Body filler for minor dings?
I have all of the above minus flex additive(really needed?)

And a tack cloth.

Ill be picking up the rest of the supplies when i order paint
 

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I have all of the above minus flex additive(really needed?)
It is very much needed if you dont want your newly painted bumpers spider webbing and flaking off in a year.
 
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