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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok guys/gals I sort of read though that LONG how to get 300 hp post but I'm still a little confused

PI heads vs NPI?

PI intake?

dont you need a cam for the PI heads?

Also can I put headers on a stock motor

Its 1 am and I'm super tired maybe those things are answered someplace else
if anyone can direecet me or just post ideas here that would be greatly appreciated

I'm not up for a motor swap just some bolt ons

I already own a 12 second and counting car so I dont have to go real crazy :D

Are mustang parts comparable they seem to have a 5.0 .. if so which ones

Thanks in advance !!
 

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you could go either pi or non pi but each has good and bad points...maybe PI and an svo blower and your almost there with a tune. thats the fastest if not one of the fastest but not the most efficient in cost or work. thats what i would like to do someday
 

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pnyklr said:
Ok guys/gals I sort of read though that LONG how to get 300 hp post but I'm still a little confused

PI heads vs NPI?

PI intake?

dont you need a cam for the PI heads?

Also can I put headers on a stock motor

Its 1 am and I'm super tired maybe those things are answered someplace else
if anyone can direecet me or just post ideas here that would be greatly appreciated

I'm not up for a motor swap just some bolt ons

I already own a 12 second and counting car so I dont have to go real crazy :D

Are mustang parts comparable they seem to have a 5.0 .. if so which ones

Thanks in advance !!
The motors in the 94 cars already have a huge disadvantage. You have the old style intake and throttle body, fuel lines, etc. You also have a 1994 transmission. :beek: Making 300 rwhp would almost definately kill it without some major upgrades.
NPI heads can be made to flow better than PI heads, but not your castings. They're crap. The PI heads have great potential right out of the box, and they must have the PI intake on them to make the most hp/torque. PI cams come with the heads if you get them loaded and they also give more lift and duration to better maximize the PI heads flow. A stock motor won't benefit much from headers, and if I had $600 to blow on my stock motor I would look elsewhere to spend it. They do benefit modified motors, however. If I were you and looking for 300 rwhp I would definately start with a motor that could handle that much power, like a slightly used PI motor or a new fortified motor. Bolting on parts to your motor is not the smartest or most cost efficient thing to do.
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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I agree but add 95 to your list. 94 and 95 intake and heads are not worth the effort unless you want to go with positive displacement. 96+ NPI heads are what you want if you choose to stay NPI and later get them ported. If you plan on swaping cams and doing all that, plan on changing your heads. Really, don't waste your time modifying a 94/95 head. ;)

The 94-97 4R70W trans are garbage. 96-97 would be better than a 94-95 but still garbage. I'm not sure on the 98. It should have the mechanical diode one-way but the 99+ valve body is better. Look to get a 99-02 4R70W. J-mod it and get a converter. It'll be worth it.

Installing the SVO on a 94/95 is more work but not to bad (so far). If you have all the parts. :\ You can check out the fun I'm having: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=75142 Lots of pics so if you're on DU, smoke em if ya got em.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok cool thanks for all the help seems like my $$ will go into fixing the 93 Upper control arms

maybe I'll just go with a better set of mufflers and call it a day (I have no mufflers at all)
 

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If all the money you set aside to add some power to the 94 is going to be blown on UCAs, then I think you are getting screwed on the price for the UCAs :)

I have a 97, so much of the good advice you have gotten doesn't affect me, but I am putting out as much money as a used PI engine already, but a good portion of it would still need to be spent if I got the PI engine.

I want a little more power, nothing big, so in my case PI cams, PI intake, 02 GT MAF/Airbox, C&L zip tube, 70 or 75 mm throttle body, aftermarket upper plenum, XCal II tuner, is what I am doing. I don't have a lot of time to work on it, and I don't like having the car out of service for very long, so I am staying bolt on.
 

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I have a question, I can get a motor with a drop vaule my car is a 1994 T-bird the motor I can get is a 1996 would that be a easy swap?
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Honestly I would get an explorer aluminum PI engine. You'll have to do the same amount of work r&r it but the results will be so much better. You'll need to change your fuel lines, throttle cable, intake tube, the EVR and IAC pigtails, reroute some vacuum hoses and other stuff that escapes me at the moment. Someone who has done the swap can fill in the missing items.
 

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for a 94 vehicle, i wouldn't even touch the motor. Its a boat anchor.

Yank, the trans, the driveshaft, and the rear diff and dispose of all three.

Install a late model jmod trans, one of alans converters (probably 3000 stall), and a 410 trac loc rear end, along with a one piece driveshaft (doesn't need to be aluminum just get one made up and high speed balanced)

Get the thing tuned, and you will run very very fast even with that piece of junk motor.

Hell, you can even keep the violin case on it, and run very fast.

You don't need to do the exhaust either.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oh no actually I am going away for the weekend and it was fix one or the other

basically it comes down to fixing neither and driving without the mufflers
 
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