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Discussion Starter #1
I am having problems as noted in the post listed below:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?threadid=21352

"Now it just hesitates and bogs a little right when you goose it...thus eliminating any wheelspin or a jerky launch. What could be causing this?". The hesitation is significantly worse when you have the engine under heavy load (notably when the A/C is on).

The car has recent plugs and wires, fuel pump, cam positioning sensor and o2 sensors. I bought the car from a buddy for $800. It has 114k on it. There are a few problems (one being the above mentioned problem), but I think I got a good deal. I think he said that he also replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor.

A buddy of mine that races his 97 Cobra said that it could be the Coil Packs. He claims that they should have been changed by now (114k... never been changed). He has offered me his stock ones from his Cobra to see if it works, but we both have been quite busy as of late.

I've tried contacting "tbirdracer97" (the person with the problem in the mentioned post), to no luck.

Could it be the TPS? My buddy that owned the car said it could be the cats since they are also original, but I can't see that.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I've got 145,000 on my stock coil packs, and they are as good as new, and I know plenty of people over 200K on stock packs. If there's nothing wrong with them, don't replace them.
 

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Possibly see if the torque converter has been replaced. Mine had hesitation problems when accelerating between 30 -- 40 mph, esp up hill. Changed out my torque converter, problem solved. They are notorious for goin out, so it would be worth checking out.
 

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I just developed a similar problem with my 95. Driving home last night I felt a hesitation and since I replaced the plugs (with Bosch Platinums:( )and wires back in March or April 2004, I didn't think about them. I started thinking it was the tranny or torque converter. But when I got home and put the car in park, I reved the engine a few times and I could hear and feel the misfire so I knew it was not the tranny ( :::lets out hugh sigh of relief::: ). Tonight, I will check the wires, put Autolite coppers in, clean the MAF, check the TPS, and a few other things. Hopefully that will cure it at least until this weekend when I can get more into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
My buddy that sold me the car just put a new MAF on a few months ago. I don't think it's the torque converter either as it will do it in park. If you put the car in park and hit the gas, it hesitates until it hits about 2,000 rpms, and from there on, it pulls hard.

My buddy sold me this car because he was sick of the problems it was giving him. It seemed like his check engine light was on every few weeks. He finally got tired of it and sold it to me and bought himself a new GTO.

95greenbird, If you find a solution, please let me know. I can use your knowledge on my 95 green thunderbird. ;)

Also... I've had the check engine light go on and off. Currently it's off, but just last week it was on
 

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I had close to the same problem on the '94 tbird. When you gave it gas off the line, rpms dropped and it almost died, but afterwards it was fine. This usually happened when the car was cold or when it sat for a bit. I changed plugs and all and it ended up being the MAF. I replaced it and no more stumbling. Hope this helps.
Adam
 

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i had the same problem in my bird when i try upgrading the coil packs. i put my car in park n rev it up and it stuttered. came to find out it was the packs so i reinstalled the stock ones and sent the upgraded ones back and got new ones . now this i learned when u install new coil packs its good to clean the plug-in properly take a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol and clean the plugs gently ,or just buy air in a can and clean it, plug it back in and walaa problem solve. well at least it was for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does anyone know how to clean the MAF? My buddy said that it was just replaced, but how can I tell? Maybe I should pull it off and clean it and then clean the plug wires and coil packs.
 

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take a qtip n be as gentle as possible and touch the 2 medal lines inside the MAF and just blow on it gently and buy some throttle body cleaner and spray some on a rag and just clean the inside of your MAF . you might as well clean the TB as well.
 

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Mn12KnightRyder said:
take a qtip n be as gentle as possible and touch the 2 medal lines inside the MAF and just blow on it gently and buy some throttle body cleaner and spray some on a rag and just clean the inside of your MAF . you might as well clean the TB as well.
I use electronic components cleaner and a q-tip. Either should work just as well as the other but the main thing is be extremely careful. It does not take much to break those wires.

BTW, I replaced the plugs last night and checked the wires. One of the plugs had like white residue (corosion maybe) on it that none of the others had. I'm thinking that was my problem but I won't know until this afternoon on the way home. It only seemed to misfire in the afternoon. :zdunno: . And thanks Mn12KnightRyder for the tip on the coil pack connections because if the plug change does not fix it, then I will start looking at the coil packs.
 

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no problem man hope your bird comes out alright for you
 

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Mine has pretty much the same problem. It's when shifting from 2nd to 3rd i think at around 35 mph. It's either something with the chip, transmission, or the torque converter.
 

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what do you mean ?? when you are riding and it shifts into 3rd gear it starts to stutter?? if so check everything everyone listed above and if it still does it take your chip out and drive without it and see if it is if it is then theres your problem . if it still stutters check your idle sensor and make sure its clean if that doesnt do it then start considering the TC or tranny . unless you want an excuse to mess with them then by all means jump on it man bu its not cheap
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well... the check engine light came back on. 2 things.

1. "Misfire in Random Cylinders"
2. Something about the EGR Valve not working properly.

Any ideas on #1? My buddy that sold me the car said he just gave the car a tune-up (plugs and wires) in the spring. I've heard that the plugs have to be gapped just right. What is the gap for them? I should pull them out and check.
 

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your problem is 1 of three things,

dpfe sensor
egr valve
egr solenoid

the spark plug with the coroded look to it has seen detonation
that can be caused by clogged injector or intake gasket leak around that intake port.

i can help you pinpoint it further if you want.

do you have a volt/ohm meter?
if so chech the resitance of each plug wire, there should be no more than 100 ohms per foot. and be sure to move them around while you are testing them. it the scale drops out while moving them you have a broken lead inside.

also make sure there is no water around the spark plugs
gap them at 0.52-0.54
and use the motorcraft double platinum plug $3.99 at autozone
it requires alot less power to fire them compared to copper plugs.

if you check all of those things and it is still misfiring
ill run you through the coil pack and and related tests

hope this helps
;)
 
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