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Whatsup guys I found some PI cams, Now all i need is the right sprockets.
Heres what I got 03 PI take offs from ebay. Picked them up with 0 miles, they do not come with the sprockets or bolts, and they are going into Windsor heads(if that makes any difference), I was wondering, Whats better OEM Cam sprockets or are Cloyes

Also same question goes for the timing chain tensioners Oem or Cloyes

I know this might be a stupid question, but Ill ask anyways


Tommy
 

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Also same question goes for the timing chain tensioners Oem or Cloyes

+1 for the OEM gears, and I only use the older iron OEM tensioners, not the newer plastic ones. Also get yourself the solid one piece newer lower crank gear with the sheetmetal trigger wheel.
 

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you will also need spacers and bolts from ford.. good luck finding those cam washers though.. ford thinks the washer is the same size as the crank pulley washer.. and it isn't
 

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which head? heads interchange

driver is left.. pass is right

if you look at your cams.. the cam p/n ending in DA is pass side, CA or AA should be left if i remember right

cam gears, the one w/ the nub is driver side gear
 

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pretty much

there should be a part number engineering stamp on the heads, you can always run that by ford and tell them it's engineering part number and they can tell you "left" or "right"

left is driver, right is passenger
 

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one possible difference in the heads is the threaded insert that plugs up the oil galleys in the back of the heads....only one side should be open, which is the side of the head that lets oil pressure into the tensioner....the other side (the back side) should be plugged up
 

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Is there anyway to tell the difference which head is right or left?

Heads are the same other than the oil galley plugs need to be in the rear and chain tensioners in the same spot in the front. Ford only made specific left and right with the 03+ 4V heads and 3V heads, not any of the 2V.
 

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+1 for the OEM gears, and I only use the older iron OEM tensioners, not the newer plastic ones. Also get yourself the solid one piece newer lower crank gear with the sheetmetal trigger wheel.
If you get the sheet metal trigger wheel make sure you have the correct one piece gear. They made a one piece gear that still uses the old style trigger wheel.

Tommy you should have said you needed tesioners I would have sent you mine. They do have some miles on them though.

Tony
 

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Guitarmaestro- your right i just checked and one side has an opening and the other does not.

Tony- I bought that one peice trigger wheel. I think i might have the right one

Heres the part numbers I have for my parts.

XL3Z-6306-BA GEAR CRANK (1)
5W7Z-6268-AA CHAIN (2)
1L2Z-6L253-AA ARM TENSIONER (1)
1L2Z-6L253-BA ARM TENSIONER (1)
4R3Z-6M256-CC
4R3Z-6B274-BA

No primaries or plates I wish I would of know that before i orderd my parts I thought I covered that.

Anything else I need let me know its beginning to pile up and Im losing track of what i need.


Guys I was looking on a website and the have this package deal for the spacers and gears/bolts. Is that all I am going to need or is there something else ?
 

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Trigger wheel pn#
F2LZ-12A227-BB (1)
$15.99

Looks just like the one in the link, good heads up Tony, has the stamp on it(rear) so i guess thats the shoulder part your talking about. What is that used for , Maybe like a counter weight or something?
That shoulder is to get more of the gear onto the keyway so you don't destroy a crank when the keyway fractures. Ford had some problems with this on the early motors especially the 2 piece crank gears. My Cobra crank I got cheap for this same problem.
 
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