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yeah the article is pretty good. its what i used. if you have any questions pm me since i just did it about a week ago. its really not hard at all. also if it smokes a little afterwards then be patient cuz i changed the valve cover gaskets like three times when there was no leak since i dripped oil on the cats and it was smoking off. oh well live and learn.
 

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thanks I'm gonna be doing it in 2-3weeks what's the purpose of removing the cam followerers and lash adjusters they look like they go under the cam?
 

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makes the cam easier to put back on. they are really easy to put back on anyways so dont worry about taking them off. they are easy to get on and off with a flat blade screwdriver.
 

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thx... seems pretty easy. I guess I have to tilt the gear with chain outward to remove and install the cam as shown in the pics? do you just tilt it outward or pull up also kinda hard to see? Last question; is there anything else I should remove besides the air intake, pcv, iac hoses etc., spark plug wires and plugs or is that all that's needed for room?
 

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the camshaft position sensor might have to come out. not sure if you have to with the ford tool or not. you have to move the gear toward the front of head and up. i honestly had to pry it up a little with a screwdriver to get the new cam on. not the best way but works. lol.... also you dont need to remove the plugs. unless you want to change them that is.
 

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are you using the anderson ford motorsport tool or the ford factory tool. big difference if i remember correctly.
 

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thx... I am gonna buy the ford tool as its suppose to be better. What's the difference?
 

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just a word of advice....when you're done, spin the engine around with a hand ratchet on the crank bolt many many times to ensure there is no PTV contact incase the chains slip by a tooth or something.....then when you're sure it is spinning freely, unplug your coil packs and fuel injectors and then crank it for a few seconds.....then after your positive its spinning freely, do a compression check on all 8 cylinders and make sure the average compression one bank is within 10% from the other bank.....lol

in other words, take your time and do it right and triple check everything.....last thing you need is bent/broken valves and messed up heads.......im pretty sure a few people here havejumped the gun and accidentally bent a valve or two because of a cam swap that went astray
 

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might not be a bad idea to rotate the cams with a 3/8 drive rachet to double check them before bolting your cam sprockets back on
 

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yea im gonna rotate the engine by hand, and pull eec fuse and crank to check for free spinning b4 starting it up. What do you mean by rotate the cams?
 

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cranking the cams with the chain attached is the same as turning the crank unless im mistaken.
 

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you need to check for pvc far before attempting to crank it over, crank by hand not with your starter, and I mean rotate cams to double check pvc (positive valve contact) I just don't want to hear anymore people coming back saying :( my pistons crashed into my valves... how could things have gone so horribly wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #15
in other words your saying not to: use a ratchet on crank and spin engine when valve covers are back on; but to use ratchet on crank spin engine a few times by hand and watch the camshaft making sure it spins freely? what would be symptoms of being off one tooth while turning by hand or can you not tell without the engine running? I might just take off the front cover AND use the tool so I can see if everything stays aligned; even though that kinda defeats the purpose of the tool.
 
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