TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
620 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
is there any kind of reference material avauilable on here that i can take to the machineshop when i carry my heads out there to be p&p?
thanks
mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
why not send them to a shop that knows modular stuff there are plenty out there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
sean hyland's 4.6 book has some basics for most of the 4.6 heads, castings of the port shapes for reference. Its not the best but its better than nothing if you really dont know how to approach it. just... dont take much of the bottome of the port.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,412 Posts
a decent shop knows how to port heads, these things aren't new....
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,961 Posts
right......but the fact that this thread exists, seems to somewhat imply that the shop in question may not know how to get the best results from modular heads, since the person taking the heads there feels it might be beneficial to take a "guide" to them......thats just how i see it though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
yeah I gotta agree, it seemed to be for the longest time that most ppl couldnt make enough power from the 4.6 because the "conventional" techniques didnt have the same affects, but here we are, 4.6's are now tearing down 5.0 records.

While I agree that most of hylands book is trash, you can scavange some good data from it if you try hard enough... for instance, those port castings. My best advise would be to get your hands on pictures of some really good heads, like TEA's and do your best to mimic their cnc work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
620 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
well i was hoping to get some insight as to what to do so i my dad and i could do it.
we are pretty good at porting heads on conventional pushrod ford engines ,but the modular heads are a whole different ball game
mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
Hyland's book is good for one thing, fire starter.
And aside from referencing part numbers, I 100% agree with GB. Everything he pushes in there is his own, not always what works best.

Pete
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
yeah I gotta agree, it seemed to be for the longest time that most ppl couldnt make enough power from the 4.6 because the "conventional" techniques didnt have the same affects, but here we are, 4.6's are now tearing down 5.0 records.
They are tearing down 5.0 records because people finally let go of the 5.0 and accepted the 4.6L. Builders and racers aren't scared to fool with overhead cams anymore, aftermarket parts are finally starting to pop up (thankfully, only took 15 friggin years of production:mad: ), and tuning has gotten way better / easier.

The 4.6 always had potential, it's just that nobody wanted to fool with it because they were comfortable with the Windsor motors and parts were cheaper (but that gap's closing too). It was never even given a chance.

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Ill quote tuning and mass air for most of the success, but you're right, its just now coming into its own. If I remember history right, it took over 10 years for the 5.0 to build an aftermarket as well.

sorry joker, I dont do PI so I cant really give you too much insight. I know they need reworks near the valve a lot on both intake and exhaust, that should be straight foward smoothing and rounding the port to you and your dad. you can open up the long side radius more... I think it'll benifit from more port volume (someone else chime in here?) The exhaust ports i think are pretty good except the valve area
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Take a look at the pictures I did of one here:

http://forums.modulardepot.com/modular-depot-member-projects-build-ups/99555-possible-2007-grassroots-challenge-modular-mustang.html

For all the cutting I did the port entrance and exit are basically stock sized plus maybe 0.030" The stock intake system is a dual taper down, once in the manifold and once in the head. I made it a single taper down from manifold to valve bowl. This required cutting the intake itself as well. The exhaust port is a taper out from valve bowl to port exit, the main restriction is the long side radius needs to be laid back alot. I didn't see the need to make the exhaust port any bigger as it looks to outflow the bowl region already, plus you need a step at the outlet. Both valve seats are recessed into the head a good amount. Combined with the large magin of the stock valves this kills flow at valve overlap. I modified the chamber near the valves to gain some low lift flow because I am running a tight LSA cam N/A. I also modified the swirl dam for the high lift flow, I have run this mild dam modification and found it doesn't affect the timing curve. The motor with this dam modification is running about 10:1 on the stock curve with 87 octane and only needed higher octane once the blazing summer heat arrived here in Florida. It was fine up until a couple weeks ago on 87.

You will need to remove the guides to be able to do the job properly, they need to be replaced anyway with aftermarket as the stock tolerances are pretty loose to begin with.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top