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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This pic is from Amercan Muscle for the PI Intake swap.
I have everything but this hose (in the circle) that seems to be for the heater outlet tube.
I don't know if I need this or not.
Hate to seem like a nag, just wanna make sure I don't have to walk to the parts store, in the middle of the swap, because I needed a part I coulda had.
Thanks!
BTW '97 4.6l, cracked plastic manifold, transition.

 

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That hose is optional if needed but not a must.

Remember you also need to find the thread where they show you where to add the RTV to your gaskets so you do not leak at the couple of spots where the PI to NPI is not matched perfect.

Add the RTV to your gasket and install on the PI intake first and let it setup for atleast 24hrs. That makes it easier when you put it on to line it up. And remember your torque specs and your torquing sequence. Pretty easy swap actually.

Your next move will be PI cams and a tune with 80mm MAF so you get the nice bump in HP.( I have a set for sale soon to)

Good luck.
 

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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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If you use the PI valley hose as shown in this picture, it will terminate behind the driver's side head. I used a length of heater hose to run it to the end of the stock hose with the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so I'm good, yes I am going to use the PI valley tube, just need to get a length of heater hose, which I can run to attach to the SATC sensor right?
Thanks.
 

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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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Yup. I had trouble getting the hose to not kink, so I ended up looping about 2 feet of it into a sort of teardrop shape resting on top of the bellhousing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
PI valley tube - 90 degree prebent hose - 90 degree section of old heater tube cut and flared, short hose section, stock tube cut and flared(hose clamps not pictured)
Hey XR7,
thanks for the pic, gives me better ideas for what to to, but why is your PI tube different than mine at the back, with the different mouting bracket and that extra vertical small tube? Is yours just a different version or older, or am I missing something?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Matt!
Just making sure I know all the in's an out's of this correctly before I do the swap.
I will have 3 days off to do the job next week, not saying it will take anywhere near that long, but any parts I don't have ahead of time will mean walking to the parts store to get them. I'll definitely buy a 2 foot length of heater hose before install just in case, to have something to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
PI RTV pics-not available

I hate to ask for more help, but it's killing me!
I think I got it ,with where to put the Hi-Temp RTV silicone with the PI swap on the coolant passages. At first I actually thought I had to fill the coolant valley with RTV where the mismatch is. Now, after more research, it appears I just need to put RTV ON TOP of the head, where the gasket meets it, not inside the valley.
Is this right? The old posts I read about this on, no longer had pics, so not sure visually, any help with pics? Or confirmation if this is right.:(
Thanks!
 

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Thanks GM!
I too am doing the PI intake swap. I saw the pic in the American Muscle article of the silicone in the ports, but I will take you up on that offer if necessary, thanks!
the only issue with the pic you saw, was that the RTV dribbled a little into the coolant port. It may have confused you as to how much RTV to apply, but the point is, it goes in that corner (between the head and the PI intake gasket) of the coolant port because that is where the mismatch is. So technically, yes its "on top" of the head, but the important thing to realize is that the RTV seals between two surfaces.

BTW, if you do a google search for "PI heads coolant port RTV", then click on "Images" at the top.....well you get the idea...








 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Perfect!

Thanks Guitar Maestro, your clarification and pics answered all my questions!:D
 
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