TCCoA Forums banner
1 - 20 of 60 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

I just started to do my PI Intake swap, about 5 hours into it.

Noticed my NPI gasket had a leak and had been crushed causing my coolant leak. lol. but i got this far with the PI Intake swap, theres no turning back now :)

I noticed the Heater Valley Hose is attached to something behind the engine, i thought it was the bracket which i had removed (holds the DPFE sensor as well) but I did a few searches and people are saying there's a SATC sensor attached to the hose or something? I need a bit more confirmation on this because if so, I will just rig up my own heater pipe.

If i wanted to make my own heater pipe what would be the best way of doing that? Should i work with the stock Nipple. or still replace it to the PI Nipple? Should i use a pipe cutter and attach the NPI heater hose to the PI heater hose. I will also need some Rubber heater hose to create something like that. But one thing, would i need to create a flair on the end to ensure that the hose doesn't slip off? i noticed on every hose connection its flared.

One more thing, I read someone used a impact hammer to remove the pi nipple. I have one but i was thinking it would damage the nipple. Is there something i should be cautious about when doing this? I cant find my BFH :( i dont kno where it went.

Please get back soon guys
Thanks
Kyle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,902 Posts
If you have the PI tube, then yes it's worth the trouble to use the PI nipple because once its installed, the rest of the tube install is almost seamless. You only have the switch in the tube if you have SATC. If your a/c has a digital temperature reading in the middle, then you have satc. All it does is keep the heater from turning the blower up until the engine is warm enough, while in auto mode. You can just leave the wire unhooked and it will blow and warm up like a normal old car :) Who uses that auto stuff anyway?
 

·
Super Moderator
97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
11,209 Posts
Who uses that auto stuff anyway?
I do... :wavey:

I used the PI valley tube and nipple. The tube ends on the driver's side of the engine so you'll need a length of heater hose either way. I cut the stock tube with the SATC lockout sensor in it off just before the second bracket (it needs to be grounded to the head to work), bolted the remaining bracket to its original spot on the head and ran a length from the end of the PI water tube to it. No issues after nearly two years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys,
you have encouraged me to take another try at it. Its really bothering me that i cant figure this out very frustrating the Stock heater hose. I removed the DPFE sensor and im trying to get the bracket off to remove the hose. Theres another bolt thats holding it in place on the lower part of the DPFE Bracket. Once i get that bolt off then that bracket will come off. After that what do I do? does the heater hose free it self? im referring to teh stock hose removal. I want to use the PI nipple and Heater Valley Hose. Do you think i can get away with using a impact hammer gun? i sprayed liquid wrench to try to free it up a tiny bit before i try to knock it out, i understand it was pressed in but anything will help get it out right? i dont trust my self with a sledge hammer cuz i dont wanna deform the shape of hte stock nipple.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
I do... :wavey:

I used the PI valley tube and nipple. The tube ends on the driver's side of the engine so you'll need a length of heater hose either way. I cut the stock tube with the SATC lockout sensor in it off just before the second bracket (it needs to be grounded to the head to work), bolted the remaining bracket to its original spot on the head and ran a length from the end of the PI water tube to it. No issues after nearly two years.
When I installed my PI intake, I cut off the SATC sensor bracket, also and re-used it. I'd take pictures, but good luck getting back there again, right? lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
how did you cut it off? Tiny hacksaw. The bracket is not bolted on? Im having a hard time getting my hands back there. What about your PI nipple? Did anyone get it out with one wack of a sledge?
lol

Thanks for all the info still guys, I wanna get back and tackle this problem tomorrow morning. Any information will help me though and i appreciate it that no one got mad at me for this issue im having. lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
how did you cut it off? Tiny hacksaw. The bracket is not bolted on? Im having a hard time getting my hands back there. What about your PI nipple? Did anyone get it out with one wack of a sledge?
lol

Thanks for all the info still guys, I wanna get back and tackle this problem tomorrow morning. Any information will help me though and i appreciate it that no one got mad at me for this issue im having. lol
Well, you're already doing a better job than I did. I used the original nipple and just ran a piece of heater hose along where I should have used the hard PI line (it's been like that almost a year now, but I should have done it right).

Yes, I unbolted that bracket and cut the thing down so it's just clamped in-line in the heater hose and not bolted anywhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,651 Posts
Well, you're already doing a better job than I did. I used the original nipple and just ran a piece of heater hose along where I should have used the hard PI line (it's been like that almost a year now, but I should have done it right).

Yes, I unbolted that bracket and cut the thing down so it's just clamped in-line in the heater hose and not bolted anywhere.
I did that at first a long time ago and it rubbed against the cylinder head edge. 3 months later I had to pull the intake again to replace the heater hose I ran due to the chafing rubbing a hole in the hose. If you don't want to use the hard line it's ok to use a sharp Z bend and straight hose under the intake but make sure you wrap it in plastic wiring loom to prevent rubbing a hole in the hose due to chafing against the cylinder head due to coolant surges.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright, After reading for several hours, There's another bolt I have to undo and that hose should be free, The sensor i will not use because i never use the heater on auto anyways. Im gonna do this tomorrow morning and let you guys know how it goes?

One more thing. Is it ok for me to use a Impact Hammer gun on the stock PI nipple to remove it?

Let me know

Thanks guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,651 Posts
You shouldn't need an impact hammer. A couple good swings with a real hammer (small claw hammer doesn't count) will get it out in one piece. I'd avoid the impact hammer so that you don't score/scratch/scar the block hole where the new one goes causing a leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
I just bought a new engine, NPI this time, (I need this car running again and got a good deal on a 97 cougar engine). It has the plastic crossover intake, but I kept the PI intake from the old engine with the tube. Could I just use a small piece of hose from the nipple to the tube with some hose clamps and call it a day?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alright my BFH got that nipple out, it came out really easy, i sprayed it with penetrating oil on Friday night and Saturday night. This afternoon (Sunday) i put a 15mm Deep Impact socket and whacked that son of a *****. Pressed in the new one. ran the new heater hose. everything was straight forward after that, just reverse everything I did.

I did notice the heater core tube going to the valley tube was a little more bent that it was with the old valley tube. I made sure it wont crimp up but should i be switching that hose to a Mustang GT one? is that the one that will fit?

Project Bird, I really think you should take the time to use the metal line, It makes everything fit so perfect.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Alright my BFH got that nipple out, it came out really easy, i sprayed it with penetrating oil on Friday night and Saturday night. This afternoon (Sunday) i put a 15mm Deep Impact socket and whacked that son of a *****. Pressed in the new one. ran the new heater hose. everything was straight forward after that, just reverse everything I did.

I did notice the heater core tube going to the valley tube was a little more bent that it was with the old valley tube. I made sure it wont crimp up but should i be switching that hose to a Mustang GT one? is that the one that will fit?

Project Bird, I really think you should take the time to use the metal line, It makes everything fit so perfect.
I totally agree on the metal line. I used only a heater hose on my conversion, but those two 90* bends it has to make are pretty sharp. I haven't had any problems with it, but I have a metal line standing by just in case I ever do. When I do another PI conversion, I will ALWAYS use the metal line - not because I've had problems, but because it looks so much neater and obviously it's the RIGHT way to do it...

BTW, yes the PI tube runs higher on the side because the PI intake sits so much lower in the engine than the NPI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hey can you guys clarify something for me. Can i get away with using the stock npi thermostat housing on the pi intake? The stock one seems to fit. And everything. or would i have to switch over to a 2003 stang thousing?

Thanks
Kyle
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
hey can you guys clarify something for me. Can i get away with using the stock npi thermostat housing on the pi intake? The stock one seems to fit. And everything. or would i have to switch over to a 2003 stang thousing?

Thanks
Kyle
I did that too, but it's not the right thermostat for the intake. You should get a thermostat for a 2002 Crown Vic (that would be the correct thermostat for a PI intake). I bought two of the 180* Premium Stant Superstats for the PI intake part #45778 for my vehicles recently and they look absolutely gorgeous!!! :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Just to clarify, I have the metal tube. Just not the nipple. Can I connect the pi tube to the npi nipple with heater hose and clamps?
I don't think so. If you "test fit" your pi intake, you'll see how little clearance there is between the nipple and the manifold. In other words, you can't physically fit a hose with a couple clamps in there to connect the NPI nipple to the PI tube. I put just a heater hose on my nipple and there are two un-godly 90* bends in the hose so it can make it by the front of the PI intake to go around it.
 

·
Super Moderator
97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
11,209 Posts
No, the PI tube uses o-rings on the outside of the nipple to seal against the tube. The NPI nipple is designed for hose and clamps.

Also, I haven't had any issues using the thermostat I had in my NPI (aluminum crossover) manifold in my PI. They're 80mm thermostats IIRC.
 
1 - 20 of 60 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top