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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been asked a thousand times, and everyone just says "do a search" but I have searched and since the keywords "PI intake swap" are in about every 3rd thread ever started here, it is really tough to find good info.

So. I have this parts list:

(1)w-pump nipple $6.06 (retail $8.25)
(1)t-stat gasket $3.32 (retail $5.10)
(1)w-pump gasket $2.99 (retail $3.98)
(2)t-stat bolts $4.01ea. (retail $5.34)
(2)non-pi gaskets $5.84ea. (retail $7.78 ea.)
(2)pi -gaskets $8.83 ea. (retail $11.77 ea.)
(1)alt bracket $9.44 (retail $14.53)
(0)pi coolant tube $20.08 (retail $26.77)

But I dont' exactly understand what is the thing about 2 sets of intake gaskets, and what adapters people were talking about.

The car I have is a 97 Cougar. Can I just buy a PI intake off EBay or wherever?

Does the PI intake just bolt on or is there a port mismatch of any kind? I plan to do an aftermarket elbow and the PI intake. Is this a smart thing to do? What kind of gains should I expect? Should I be getting a larger TB to go with the intake elbow?

I don't plan to swap cams, just thought I would mention that.

Also, what about other parts, is there anything else I should look at in the intake system? Is there a chrome intake tube that anyone recommends? What about the MAF, is the stock one big enough? I have stock injectors.

Does anyone have pictures of this swap?

Thanks guys!
 

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If you don't do the plate, which I don't think anyone else is making, or selling for a reasonable price, you have to decide if you want to use a RTV around the coolant ports (PI gaskets) or RTV around each air port (NPI gasket. I PERSONALLY went with the PI gaskets. I can't say if it was right or wrong, just what I thought was best.

The PI intake just bolts on, but the ports don't match, hence the need to use RTV.

I haven't yet gone as far as the upper plenum and the throttle body, I am going to do the cams soon, and those after. I Also got the 02 Mustang GT MAF and airbox, and the zip tube that makes it easier to fit the MAF. The MAF requires a chip/tune.

There are tons of pictures of the PI intake swap, I looked at them for a long time, but then was forced to do the PI swap by the composite one blowing (second one).

I got the PI intake from Dan in the FordPartsHQ forum here. I had to take the aluminum crossover to a machine shop to get it drilled and tapped for the second sensor, and I have SATC (semi-automatic temperature control) and had to make a way to add the sensor that it has on the coolant tube you replace. There are many ways to do that to.

search search, there are tons of posts and writeups on it, not all on TCCoA, look on the crown vic sites, and the modular performance sites too. Sometimes you can find kits people put together on eBay for this too.
 

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read this thread.....

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=38562&highlight=DmcBrideBoston

and this one

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=47823&highlight=Whitecoug

and this one

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=49330&highlight=DMcBrideBoston

Might as well read this too....

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=70070

Dave



included in those threads are ALL pieces of info you could need. Read them through and then ask your follow up questions, but 99.999999 % will be awnsered after those threads...


I also have a complete step by step for this as well, if my work email ever comes back up (f'n netcom guys) I will shoot you a copy via email...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, from what I can tell,

1) use the PI gaskets and dab or RTV. Cool.

2) replace water line and nipple with OE parts.

3) since I already have the alum crossover manifold, I should be able to use that alt bracket.

4) Typical gains are about 15rwhp.

5) C&L elbow and 75MM TB raise flow from 444cfm to 570cfm. How much Hp gain is this worth?

I have a chip already and plan to get a dyno tune as soon as this is installed.

Is there a chrome intake tube available for these cars? What is a "zip tube?"
 

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Anyone tried JB weld on coolant passage instead of RTV? I dont think it would cause a problem if done right....might be safer than RTV as well.
 

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XR7 DAVE said:
Ok, from what I can tell,

1) use the PI gaskets and dab or RTV. Cool.

2) replace water line and nipple with OE parts. Yes

3) since I already have the alum crossover manifold, I should be able to use that alt bracket.

4) Typical gains are about 15rwhp. In the higher RPM's it will pull better

5) C&L elbow and 75MM TB raise flow from 444cfm to 570cfm. How much Hp gain is this worth? Accufab is the way to go, and you dont need a 75mm TB or Plenum either, not worth the money for the gains; yet!

I have a chip already and plan to get a dyno tune as soon as this is installed.

Is there a chrome intake tube available for these cars? What is a "zip tube?" Zip Tube? I dunno, but yes there are a few chrome intake tubes available.
Hope this helps a bit
 

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The RTV is the way to go. I have done many with no problems. Use JB weld and you will be REALLY sorry. This has been debated over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over...
Go to Modular Depot and look at the lengthy and often pointless threads about this issue.
My preference is PI gaskets with one dab of RTV on each coolant port corner. Not one failure. Its easy, safe and cheap. The RTV is far safer than JB weld. At this time the only safer way to do it would be to weld up the coolant ports on the NPI heads and machine them to match the PI gaskets.
Please dont make this harder than it has to be or less safe than it already is by trying to get creative when there is no need to. All of everybody is doing it with gaskets and RTV. Most of us use the PI gaskets.
Its just easy and well worth it.
Darrin
 

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adding to what darrin said about welding up the ports, i saw a thread on modular depot in the 2V section where a guy with a mig welder, welded aluminum onto the water port and matched it up perfectly, thus being able to use PI gaskets with no RTV at all
 

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When you install the PI coolant tube, the art work of cutting and installing the original sending unit along with routing the heater hose from the tube to the existing heater hose takes some thought, some clamps, and a couple of trips to behind the counter at parts store to get the right 5/8'' bend hose. Other than that, the PI intake is a great mod.
 

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I made this

and put it like this

with heater hose across the back to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Excellent! You guys have been a huge help. I'm trying to have all the stuff together so that it goes as smooth as possible with as little down time as necessary.

Thanks a lot.

Now I have a question about chrome intake tubes. I don't want to mess around so what one fits best or looks nicest. I am sure you guys have opinions so let me have some. What one do you like and why?

Is the GT MAF really an improvement? Do people use aftermarket ones on these cars? Thanks.
 

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Yes the GT MAF is a nice adjustment for NA cars, and yes we use aftermarket MAF's. The Lightning one, if your blown.

I dunno if Steve4.6 still makes the intake tubes, but his were nice, someone else will chime in..
The BBK one looked good too. The is one more company that I cant think of offhand, I'll search for it.

Dave
 

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I'd personally go with the C&L air intake. It's not chrome but dyno wise the best I have seen yet, Can be painted, powdercoated or polished as its cast aluminum. We had modofied oen to fit the Tbird unsure of its worth it. I guess you are looking into a top as well. Aftermarket wise Accufab has been making the most HP out there from what I can see. Dont expect more then 7 rwhp and 7 ft lbs though with that aftermarket top with a larger TB. From what I have read people have had similar reults porting the factory PI peice. WHy not get a 70-75mm TB while your at it as they arnt all that expensive. MM&FF has tested many of these parts just need to find the specific issues.
 

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Maybe I'm the first to try this...

...but I am doing the swap without that silly SATC sensor. My system doesn't lock out on cold start anyway, cuz of another mod I did, and I really don't mind waiting to turn the fan on once the coolant's warm, instead of having the system wait on me to do it instead.

If anyone cares, I'll let them know what state to leave the signal lead in if they ditch their sensor also. Just gotta see what state the switch is when cold, then do the opposite of that to the signal lead.

And yeah, do the PI gaskets. There are only 4 coolant ports to seal, but with the NPI pieces you must seal 8 air ports. Less chance of a leak with the PI units.
 

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Now I have a question about chrome intake tubes. I don't want to mess around so what one fits best or looks nicest. I am sure you guys have opinions so let me have some. What one do you like and why?
If you wanna do it the poor mans way...

I went to the local Autozone and got a 3" Spectre chrome intake tube made for a honda. :zwall:

You might notice the middle hose does not fit. Just get an air breather element and remove the hose. (spectre makes them to, got a chrome one that matches the intake tube) Both the intake and breather only set me back $30 and I got alot more flow to the TB.

I only recomend this if you dont have access to anything better like an RM tube.
 

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Not to sure if any of these pictures were provided in any of the above links, but here ya go.

Here is a bare NPI head.


Here is the PI gasket, on a NPI head.


Here is where the RTV goes.


Here is the RTV squished.


So far, 7-8,000 miles, its doin good.
 

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Dragging up an old thread (preferable to starting a new one! :D )

In the pic of the RTV "squished" (is that the technical term? ;) ) do you "squish" the RTV with the gasket before or after the RTV sets up? I've been told that the RTV has to set up for 24 hours before putting the intake on.

edit: by the way, great pics, I'm sure they'll help a lot, thanks. :bowdown:
 

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Traveler said:
Dragging up an old thread (preferable to starting a new one! :D )

In the pic of the RTV "squished" (is that the technical term? ;) ) do you "squish" the RTV with the gasket before or after the RTV sets up? I've been told that the RTV has to set up for 24 hours before putting the intake on.

edit: by the way, great pics, I'm sure they'll help a lot, thanks. :bowdown:
What we did was put the RTV on the head, let it sit for a minute or 2, then put your gasket on, followed by the intake.
After everything is tight(the intake bolts), you'll want to let it sit for the recomended time the RTV manufacture recomends(but I think we started ours up after a few hours or so, without any problems).

Hope this makes sense.

BTW, it now has around 12,000 miles on it, with no problems.
 

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I'm curious, what size fittings are in the photos Bangster posted on the Tee. I think they are 5/8" from what Hollywood Ed posted...What is the thread for the temp unit, anybody know off hand? Should I buy new ones, or just reuse mine?

Also would that be the same thread for the fitting I need to tap on the PI intake by the thermostat?

thanks,

Nick
 
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