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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, now that my engine is together I just thought I would share a quick pic of it with you. I've been saving and waiting a lot of years for this, Its getting pretty exciting that the project is moving along. By the way the work is being done by Precision Autosports out of Beavercreek OH, and they have been great.

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/97Thunder/?action=view&current=11-25-08002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/97Thunder/11-25-08002.jpg" border="0" alt="2V"></a>

The short block was buily by Modular Performance and it is my factory block. The bottom end uses the stock crank, with forged flycut pistons and rods. The heads are stage II's from Livernois with Comp 270 cams. As you can see I decided to go with a Trick Flow intake, whether or not it will be worth it on a mild N/A motor like mine remains to be seen but I decided I would try it out. Also, I went with the Kooks coated headers, although the engine is wearing its stock injectors and TB right now they do have a 70mm accufab TB on the way and some larger injectors. The motor will be hooked up to a T-45 with a billet steel flywheel, king cobra clutch, and I'll be using an MGW shifter. Right now I've got a T-lok 3.73 rear that I'll be retaining for this drivetrain. Thanks for looking guys, If you want to see more pictures I've got some more I can post. And by the way, I just noticed that my stock oil fill cap looks like absolute AZZ with the new stuff lol.
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Very clean, you're in good hands with Precision Autosports, keep the pictures coming! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah man, they've been great so far. I'll have to get some more pictures up loaded.
 

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few things that may be improved upon...if those are the stock tensioner assembly and idler pulley, replace them now so they dont leave you stranded, like they did to me.....lol.....either get original motorcraft replacements, or Dayco oem replacements from Advance Auto....they were the original OEM suppliers for the tensioner assembly and idler.

how come you didnt go with the upper that utilizes the cobra dual 57mm throttle body?.....I see them go cheap on other modular mustang oriented sites (the TB that is)......and since you ARE getting a tune (right?!? lol), get some bigger injectors as 19s will be maxed out at around 280-300rwhp.....you can find some low-mileage 24s all day long for around $60-$75, 39s from a 03 cobra for $100....those are what i went with

do the driver's side head cooling mod, either on the intake or on the back of the head....either is better than not having it at all

aside from that, it looks absolutely killer dressed in black...good job

here is a dyno graph of a mustang with the trick flow intake:

http://www.modularrevolution.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5431&highlight=trick+flow+intake
 

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Good day,

Very nice work done!! I'm guessing you are using your stock computer (and a tune) with the manual trans? Do you mind me asking how you solved the clutch issue? And what drive shaft are you going to use? I have plans to do this when I put my Mark 8 block and 2V heads in mine. My motor is sitting on the stand with ARP head studs waiting on the heads to be finished (on the work bench). What is your compression ratio with the flycut pistons? If I go with my stock 95 heads, and the Mark 8 block, I will go from 8.9:1 up to 10.0:1... Are you going to run full EGR and all four O2 sensors? I have two sets of Mark 8 injectors (gray or blue - can't tell), and two sets of t-bird SC injectors (red). What would you (or anyone) recommend I use for my NA build?

Thanks much!! Very nice!! Please keep the pics coming!!

Cheers!!
 

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fourdotsixliter, whatever you, dont reuse your stock 95 heads!.....that would be a complete waste of time.....you can find PI heads cheap enough now a days to get a real engine put together.....what is it that you are doing to your 95 heads that are on your work bench?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guitar maestro, thanks for you input. They actually are going to move up to the 24's for me, I should have included that in my original post. I'm thinking i'll leave the tensioner for now as I had replaced it a couple of years ago and the car has had maybe 100 miles put on it since then. I totally forgot about doing the head cooling mod, I will have to talk to them about it.

Fourdotsixliter, I am going to be swapping a large amount of parts with CobraRThunder, as he is going back to an auto setup for his car. I beleive they are using the stock computer (tuned of course) with the automatic transmission function disabled. I will be swapping driveshafts with CobraR, as far I know he had to have one custom made but I'm not 100% sure on that. The clutch setup is going to be a hydraulic setup, but they haven't gotten that far yet so I will have to talk to them about it. As far as compression I believe it ended up being about 11:1 (I'm just going to run it on premium pump gas).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
56k Go make a sammich. A turkey sammich.
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/97Thunder/?action=view&current=10-8-08039.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/97Thunder/10-8-08039.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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fourdotsixliter, whatever you, dont reuse your stock 95 heads!.....that would be a complete waste of time.....you can find PI heads cheap enough now a days to get a real engine put together.....what is it that you are doing to your 95 heads that are on your work bench?
I was thinking about going with PI heads, but I have these already. I have done mild porting, but nothing to really write home about. Mainly just cleaned up the factory casting lines and such. I also have all the original wiring for this intake and TB. I'm not looking to make an insane amount of power, just something a bit better with what I have avail...

I was going to use the stock DOHC motor and heads, but the wiring conversion and such is proving to be more effort than I have time. Maybe I will reconsider the DOHC heads, since I already have those too...

Thanks much!

Cheers!!
 

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ah ok, I didnt know that about your already-replaced tensioner :)

great pics, i've never seen freeze plugs look so good....lol

on thing you havent mentioned: Degreeing the cams.....i dont just mean "timing" them to match up the links on the chains to the dots on the cam gears.....have your cams degree'd properly with an adjustable solid lifter
 

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Very cool setup. I bet you can't wait until you get to fire it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah man I am getting excited. Should be a massive increase in performance over my stock setup.
 

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You will have to cut some of the under hood support bracing to get the TFI intake to clear where the throttle linkage is. You will also need to get creative in routing the upper radiator hose once the alternator is on. A 36" SS flexable going under the alternator then cut to length is what I did along with the 90 degree hose supplied with the Intake. Don't forget to install a new Ford starter before you drop the engine in. A new Ford power steering pump at the same time is advisable, along with a new steering rack. The old one is kaput for sure, it's what makes the popping noises when you try to park in a parking lot. Since the intake is already on, remove the TPS, clearance will be at a premium there. Last thing, I could not find a cap fitting that fit on the EGR supply at the passenger header. There is a 5.0 mustang EGR extension fitting avalible that will extend the connection 1". That will give you clearance to tighten the EGR tube. You can splice your 97 tube with a 04 explorer tube along with a little extension tube and compression fitiings to get a functional EGR system. This is easier done after the engine is in and before you install the AC dryer. I do not believe anyone can tune out the EGR system. They say they can, but the car will still have an intermittent stall problem when you drop in drive or reverse or come to a quick stop. Tip in @ idle is so important for a smooth running machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I will not be running EGR. Also, with as much money as I have spent so far I will not be replacing parts that work just fine with new parts. My steering rack does not make any popping noises.
 
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