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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, a weird request but I need some pictures of the front of the oil pan (facing balancer). I need to see if there is enough space to swing a hammer and a punch to make a hole for the vortech oil drain. I'd take the pan off but it's impossible to take it off without lifting the engine or dropping the K-member.

I've attached a pic of a GT with the oil pan fitting installed. I kinda need a farther away pic so I can see the k-member and space between that I have left to work with.

Don't have the TBird with me to check out for myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sure does help! I'm guessing you have a tubular-K member? So not sure if the same space is there with the stock K. How much room do you think there is between the front of the oil pan to the nearest obstruction (radiator fan?) ?
 

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The Parts Guy
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Yeah, that is a stock K-member. There isn't a ton of space, but I'm sure you could poke a hole in the pan if you wanted to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My bad, yeah that is a stock K. I was looking on my phone lol, your K member/frame braces threw me off. Alright, I'll have the Bird back soon, I hate how the punches are so long and then the throw of the hammer. Wish I could find a punch like this:


Anyone have any ideas? the long handle punches seem a little too big.
 

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These people use a center punch to make a divot and then slowly drill the hole with a bit covered in lithium grease.

What's the proper way to drill/tap into oil pan? - LS1TECH

Personally, I wouldn't do it unless this engine is overdue for a rebuild and you want to blow it anyway. For me, the possibility of getting particulates into the pan and then into the oil pump/past the filter would outweigh the convenience of trying to tap the oil pan without removing it.

Q: Have you considered a different way to solve the problem?
If this is an oil drain, why not drain back at an oil filter sandwich plate (which you could modify so you would be dumping the oil in BEFORE the filter through one of the holes by drilling out the plate).
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I want to punch it rather than drill cause that's much more metal getting in the pan if i drill. I doubt it will cause any issues. I plan to grease the tap heavily and flush the pan through the hole as well as by filling through the cap and using a small magnet to pick up anything that might have gotten in.

Also you can't modify an oil adapter for drainage. It's pressurized both ways so I'll be pushing back into the SC lol. I can do a scavenge pump and pump it up to the oil cap or something but that's stupidly complicating and less reliable than a good old gravity drain.
 

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I want to punch it rather than drill cause that's much more metal getting in the pan if i drill. I doubt it will cause any issues. I plan to grease the tap heavily and flush the pan through the hole as well as by filling through the cap and using a small magnet to pick up anything that might have gotten in.

Also you can't modify an oil adapter for drainage. It's pressurized both ways so I'll be pushing back into the SC lol. I can do a scavenge pump and pump it up to the oil cap or something but that's stupidly complicating and less reliable than a good old gravity drain.
I thought about it again and you've got a fair point about dumping the oil before the oil filter b/c that's the side that the pump pressurizes the oil.


The internets suggest a steel plumb bob marked at the width you want or a "tapered" punch in the size you are looking for.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/superchargers/709811-help-i-can-not-find-9-16-punch-3-8-npt-tap.html

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-8-oz-Steel-Plumb-Bob-908/100148665
 
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