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On Probation
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I went ahead and installed the cooling system water bypass tube in the back of the driverside head with the motor in the car. It was very difficult to do. I did not have to remove the transmission or slid the motor foward. It was nessary to remove the plastic cowling that holds the windshield wiper motor and mechanism and arms to make enough room. I did not have enough room to use a punch and hammer to penetrate the freeze plug.

I used the dremmel tool with the flexable extension and a side cutting bit to drill through the freeze plug. I had to slot it from side to side. I then took a small screw driver opening up the gap till I could use a larger screwdriver. I then took the large screwdriver prying up and down wiggling it till the freeze plug fell out. I took my pipe and had to modify it. I had to cut off the bottom bolt hole for clearenc along with the one setting off the side, and then I had to redrill the hole for the proper location.

I put the pipe in the hold and started tightening it while tapping on the round section of the pipe to seat it. I finaly got it seated flush and the bolt tightend all the way. I will install the hoses tonight along with reinstalling the wipers and cowling.









 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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how long supposedly the o-ring on that will last especially it is sitting inside the head???
 

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Chief of Warranty Police
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I would imagine that those of us with SC motors could also benefit from this mod?

Will these bypass tubes fit into the back of my heads, and where are they available for purchase? My motor is still out of the car, so now would be the perfect time to do it.. and I'd be more than happy to take a few pics and do a small write up on it for the 3.8.
 

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The title of the second post is:

Apten/Reinhart 3/4 and 7/8 Cylinder Cooling MOD *not meant to advertise*

I would call either Apten or Dennis Reinhart if you just want to call up and order something. If you read the threads it tells you what types of fittings/lines to get. It also tells you where to route the coolant back to and the pros and cons of each place. You have to knock out the freeze plugs on the back of your heads first. The threads also describe this.



Liquid: If you look at the pics there are actually tapped holes and a landing machined into the heads. The part shown above actually can be ordered from Ford directly. The passenger side goes through your heater core first before going back to the crossover tube so it kind of recycles hot coolant (if I remember correctly). Also, patching the driver side into the passenger side with a T works, but you are then dumping twice as much hot coolant through your heater core and back to the crossover etc. Optimally you'd tap your thermostat housing for 2 lines and run the driver's side to there, and the passenger side after the heater core there also. Also, I saw a link to a Jeg's thermostat housing spacer (cant find it now =/ )which would be perfect to tap the lines into and use.
 

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Chief of Warranty Police
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Yeah, after doing some reading, I decided I'm not going to want to run any more hot coolant through my heater core than I have to... I'll probably just run them both right into the t-stat housing like you said.

I assume the freeze plug sizes are the same.. ? Just want to be sure before I go ordering anything. I'll have a look at Jeg's today and see if I can find that spacer... post it when I find it.

EDIT: I'm having trouble finding a suitable spacer, looks like I might have to make one.. I did find a coolant bypass kit for Chevy applications, but I don't know how close the measurements are if it could be made to work with a 3.8. Also found just a spacer from Day Motor Sports, but again, it's application isn't specified.
 

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