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Discussion Starter #1
From my research people who can't fix pinging just use higher octane gas. I've cleaned my maf, new wires/plugs, no vacuum leak, and no CEL. It pings from idle and under acceleration. I need ANY reason for it to ping that i can check or fix. I'm at my wits end trying to trace this down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've owned the car for idk... about two years... I've changed out plugs, wires, fuel filter, I've cleaned out the maf. I've thourghly have made sure i don't have vacuum leaks. I did have a CEL recently for running lean and i replaced the hose that caused it and it has not come on. Idk how a valve adjust sounds like but it i were to phonetically spell out the feel of my engine, it goes.... brrrrrrrr puh puh brrrrrrrr puh. You know like misfiring. My wires are in the right place and plugs are gapped to factory spec. It all completely stock. You can't hear much out of the car but you can feel it through the vibrations it causes. I'm not sure what else to add.... i guess i run regular gas? Last i look at live data my O2's were working fine
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it started about... 2 months ago. And its a relatively low mileage car, the Odo worked when i bought it at 40k miles at 43 miles the odo broke. So i assume if it broke on me then the car has about 60k miles.
 

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so then its not pinging...its misfiring.....when a car is pinging it sounds like 'marbles in a coffee can' type of sound

sounds like a fuel or spark issue....could be traced back to fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, coil packs, EDIS module, maybe even the pcm
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
how do i test the coil packs? I think it most likely a spark issue . I mean i could be very wrong here but when it threw a code for running lean it would have to be able to reach its maximum fuel output on the table to determine that right? It was running lean in bank two(or 1 i forget but i know its the passenger side) only not a whole system condition. And after i found my vacuum leak it hasn't thrown a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok so i found out how to test coil packs but i dont know the specs for our car. But basically my primary resistance is .6 ohms both ways for each coil pack and secondary resistance is 13.5 ohms both ways each coil pack. So, this means either both are good or both are bad. All it depends on is the specs. The way i checked secondary resistance is by sticking the probe into 7 and 4, 8 and 2, etc. I read you can test it a different way so i wanted to clarify. If i have to do it the other way I will.
 

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yes thats the basic way to test them out....the other way which is more conclusive is to test them out "in the field", ie: in a known working car....know anyone else with coil-pack equipped ford? without going somewhere where they can log the misfire counter in the pcm with a scanner, there's little else you can do to test coil packs when under load
 

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Discussion Starter #9
how do you test the edis module? google has come up with nada but explained how they work. Did these early obd II cars have the ability to detect which one is misfiring? I'm begging for the CEL to come on to help me narrow it down some more. I suppose i should just disconnect a fuel injector until i find it. Unless its a random mis. Which i guess might help me....
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
i wanted to add that with my a/c i can't feel it miss at all. Emphasis in feels, because i kno it does just not as pronounced. I want to also re state that it does misfire under acceleration and at idle, and while cruising at freeway speeds. But not with the a/c on...
 

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ok so your wires are not arcing...great....it could still be your EDIS module or coil packs...you cant rule them out unless you try them out on another car, or try ones from another car in your car

so what were the results of your tests on the fuel pressure??
 

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Pull all the plug wires, put spark plugs in the ends, ground the shell of the spark plugs, and crank it over. If they all spark, well, you're getting spark ;)

I would also love to know if the '94-95 t-bird/cougars detect misfires ...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i dont kno of anyone that could give me loaner packs and is there a way to test the edis module? As far as fuel pressure is concerned im buying a gauge by this weekend. I unplugged my O2 to see if being in a forced open loop would help but it doesn't, same with unplugged MAF to see if its at fault and a dead end there too. So it happens regardless of it being warmed up or not.
 

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i dont kno of anyone that could give me loaner packs and is there a way to test the edis module? As far as fuel pressure is concerned im buying a gauge by this weekend. I unplugged my O2 to see if being in a forced open loop would help but it doesn't, same with unplugged MAF to see if its at fault and a dead end there too. So it happens regardless of it being warmed up or not.
even if there was, there would still be a chance that it could be malfunctioning UNDER ENGINE LOAD.....so go one step at a time and check the fuel pressure
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok i checked the fuel pressure and it read 30 psi at idle and as soon as i opened the throttle (dont kno how much probably between 40-70% open ) it jumped to 40 psi so im getting the pressure i need.



So how do i test the edis?:confused:
 

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ok i checked the fuel pressure and it read 30 psi at idle and as soon as i opened the throttle (dont kno how much probably between 40-70% open ) it jumped to 40 psi so im getting the pressure i need.



So how do i test the edis?:confused:
Can you get ahold of another EEC? The reason I'm saying is my car would skip like crazy sometimes, but most of the time it ran fine. When I "read" the plugs, they were white as ghosts indicative of a lean condition. After trying to diagnose it myself, I had a friend who was a Master Mechanic for Ford look at it, he had me buy a $120 MAF new, but the missing got worse. It finally got to the point where the car wouldn't idle and I could hardly keep it running. I gave up and brought it to the local Ford steelership.

They had all their techs looking at it, three laptops hooked up to it, they even attempted the "shotgun" approach with some parts trying to figure it out and couldn't find anything wrong. Yet the car ran like doo-doo most of the time. They told me to try another EEC, because they couldn't figure it out.

I bought a used EEC for $50 and all my problems disappeared. The plugs "read" normal, and it runs strong and smooth again. So, back to your issues, it's a possibility. Your '94 should have the same computer as my '95, IIRC. Good luck!
 

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ok i checked the fuel pressure and it read 30 psi at idle and as soon as i opened the throttle (dont kno how much probably between 40-70% open ) it jumped to 40 psi so im getting the pressure i need.



So how do i test the edis?:confused:
put it on another car and see how that car runs....its the only 100% foolproof way
 
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