TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,565 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone who has the MN12 Performance Poly suspension bushings, did they make any difference in handling performance? I know there has to be some difference, I'm just wondering whether or not it's worth it to shell out another $250 on my suspension. Thanks for any info you can provide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,565 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
No one? Eh, it doesn't matter anymore, I decided to take that money and do a rear disc conversion instead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
It takes away lots of the compliance, the car turns-in better, BUT, impact harshness gets worse. Chasing suspension squeaks are a continual battle with the white lithium grease. I had problems with fit on an earlier set of the MN-12 performance bushings (specifically the LCA bushings), but I hear they have that solved now.

On the cheap, for street use, just get the higher durometer MOOG "problem solver" bushings that replace the front strut-rod bushings, and make sure everything else is in good condition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
"On the cheap, for street use, just get the higher durometer MOOG "problem solver" bushings that replace the front strut-rod bushings, and make sure everything else is in good condition."

Do you know where can I get these parts for street use?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
I ordered mine from RockAuto. Look under "suspension", then "strut rod bushing kit". It is MOOG P/N K8659, $34.79 per kit, 2 required. They are blue in color.

I use those, and all other poly or delrin bushings front and rear on my track car.

On my last street car, I just used the MOOG strut rod bushings, and replaced all other bushings with OEM. I found that the big, pillowy stock strut rod bushings lasted 50K miles or less on Michigan roads. With the MOOG bushings, impact harshness goes up a little, but the car turns in quicker, and the bushings last much longer.

PS - when you change them, a full set of tools with deepwell sockets, large wrenches, and an impact gun are really helpful. You will also need an angle grinder to grind the lip off the sleeve holding the old strut rod bushings in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Thanks for the info Kleckner

I am going to use the MOOG strut rod bushings, and replaced all other bushings with OEM.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top