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Discussion Starter #2
I know your out there....:eek: I was also hoping some of your more experienced automotive engineers could share what valuable knowlege you have. It's a fruitless effort but something I've started, and the heads were cheap.
 

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this is somthing I also have alot of intrest in. I know it may not come close to professional specs but I would be very interested to try it. I would just need more info.
 

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I have a small flowbench, I think you'd be surprised how much worse you can make a port if you don't know what you are doing.
 

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I ported a set...it took 10hrs to do both heads. I basically smoothed out the intake ports, enlarged the exhaust ports some, smoothed out the bowls above the valves, and took some of the sharp turn out of the floor of the ports. Also I smoothed down the aluminum around the valve guides as best as I could without removing them. I did that because I didn't wanna buy bronze valve guides...they are very pricey, but it is the right way to do it when you remove that much stuff around the guides.

Anyway, I bolted them on the car and started it...no noise out of the drivers side...passenger side sounded beautiful. The exhaust note out of the manifold was much throatier than the stock NPIs. Too bad the drivers cam was timed incorrectly and broke my #5 rod and piston, and trashed the drivers head. That's what I get for rushing myself and being wayyy too tired.

Back to the subject though, you could spend a little money and LOTS of time doing it yourself and who knows what your results will be, or you could spend a bit more and have a set of bad *** heads that are proven to flow like crazy. Granted, I never really got to drive the car with my ported heads, but I dont think they could hold a candle to the PI engine I installed. My 2 cents from my own experience.
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Now keep in mind, this is only from what I've experienced and I'm very inexperienced to say the least.

A dremel tool, a grinding bit(the good ones are $30+ from what I've found, but you can find one for $5.00 at O'Reilys and they do the trick) A good ol' pair of safety glasses(nothin worse than high velocity aluminum dust), a pair of heads you don't care about, a marker, and intake and exhaust gasket. Not to mention a LOT of time.

Chances are Will that if you are like me, you may very well ruin the heads. But it's something to give a shot at if you have an extra pair laying around. I picked up a pair of NPI's off ebay for $50.00 + a $75.00 ticket in Illinois for reasons I shall not name.

This is my first shot at this, so far so good. I don't know how much I have gained because I haven't tested them, and I won't until I finish porting and polishing(I bet a lot of you guys are probably laughing at this uneducated fool:D) Anyways. It is rather straight forward if you want just the basic porting as far as I can tell with the unprofessional look.

It helps a WHOLE BUNCH if you have a machine shop nearby that will press out the valve guides. That will allow you to get more of the port and plus, you won't have to worry about hitting them and breaking the bit.

Now lay the appropriate gasket on the appropriate port side(they have centering dots on the intake side if I'm not mistaken) and all you do is take a magic marker or a sharpy and trace inside the gasket. That provides your basic shape for the port to follow on the gasket side.

All you have to do for the start of it is grind the port to fit the gasket. Simple enough (since we aren't shooting to be perfect! We're poor and will take what we can get!).

Grind away. Keep in mind that you are confined to a limited space as there are water jackets you can not see unless you have a head cut in half so you have a good idea where you are at.

Assuming I did it right, you don't want to just stop at the port entrance on the head, you want to go in. Opening it up all the way through. Obviously you can't open the whole port to match the opening(I don't think) But every little bit helps. The one thing I have learned from what I have done and by talking to people about it is that on the short-side(I think thats what they called it), or simply the side of the port closest to the combustion chamber will see the most flow. When you open up that port, make sure that you don't have any edges or angles. It makes turbulence(sp) and will be counter-productive towards what you are trying to do.

So simply put, open up the port as much as you can without breaking into the water jackets while keeping a smoothe flow path with curves, not corners.

Now in the researching I have done I have learned that the professional port jobs have the exhaust flow 75% of what the intake flows. Something about increased velocity of the exhaust gas and making the head more efficent.

I unfortunately can not provide any ways to indicate how close a water jacket is to the port, I'm just going by my gut feeling. Great way to do it don't ya think?

Anyways, after you complete the long tedious task of porting out the head by grinding away till your hands are sore. You get to pollish them. Hopefully you did it the right wrong way(because we aren't professionals, the right right way seems out of grasp to me anyways), you would have done your best to make it as smooth as possible all the way through with the grinding bit. But this is the fun part. Sit down with some sand paper(or if you know of a faster way, please tell me) and start pollishing up that aluminum in those ports. I'm using 220 grit 3M Wet or Dry sand paper. Seems to work nicely.

If Will or anyone else is interested, I will post some pictures of what I have accomplished thus far and update them when I get something accomplished.

Please, anyone feel free to correct what I have said in any area. If you honestly know of a better way(short of shelling out hundreds of dollars to the pro's) tell us!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rich95XR7 said:
I have a small flowbench, I think you'd be surprised how much worse you can make a port if you don't know what you are doing.
I don't have any intention of actually using these heads until I have magnafluxed them and put them on a flow bench to see if they would actually FLOW any better. Granted many things come into play aside from flow, but that will be MY personal determining factor. What others do is up to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did some more research, 220 grit is seemingly too fine on the intake port and a 60 grit is recommended to keep the air/fuel mixture mixed.
 

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Thanks for the update. I would be very interested to see some of your pictures. Keep us updated on your progress!:)

Will
 

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Rob,
Do you have any pics of your work? Thanks alot.
Will
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yes, those are(if I recall correctly) Renegade NPI's with "all the bells and whistles."
As for pictures, I have nothing recent but I'll show you what I have.

Unfinished intake




Unfinished exhaust




I have since had the valve guides pushed out and worked a little more on the short side radius. I ordered a 6" tree bit today so I can get the inside of the port better. I should be back at it Friday and finishing the intakes off with 60 grit sand paper and the exhaust with something a little finer.
 

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mylittleblackbird said:
....I should be back at it Friday and finishing the intakes off with 60 grit sand paper and the exhaust with something a little finer....
just a thought, but couldn't you knock off quite a bit of time if you used one of those Dremel wire wheels to do most of the job of the 60-grit?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, it's funny you mention that. I just read an e-mail that pointed me to a website,
http://www.woodworkinghshop.com

(The person that sent that e-mail may or may not wish to be named, I don't know why not but I won't name names unless asked to.)

I was given the part number fw97424 and fw97470, being the kind of guy I am, ordered two of the fw97424 which is the 60 grit flapwheel. Should be here in a few days, next week probably. Looking forward to trying it out. I presume it will make life much easier for me. With any luck I will have not ruined these heads:D. Wish me luck, I'll keep those few of you who are interested updated when I learn something new. Thanks for the interest in my little project.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I do have some updated pictures, but you can't really see much difference aside from the fact that there is alluminum powder all over the stand next to one of the heads.
 

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mylittleblackbird said:
Did some more research, 220 grit is seemingly too fine on the intake port and a 60 grit is recommended to keep the air/fuel mixture mixed.
Doesn't matter on a direct port fuel injection system.The air and fuel are atomized very effectively by the fuel injector's spray pattern.
JL
 

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new to area and site
looking forward to meeting everyone
 

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Any updates?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Uh... It's Saturday, I didn't get my bit(see previous post), I have two more intake ports and the exhaust side of the other head to port match I guess it would be called. When my bit comes in I'll take a chance and cut out the inside of the port on the top side following the shape of the mouth of the port. We'll see what happens when I get that far. As for new pics, I won't post the actual pictures but I'll give you links for them.

I'm sure they are self-explanatory(ignore the mess in the background, it's not my garage).

http://pics.xs.to/pics/04090/DSCF0029.JPG
http://pics.xs.to/pics/04090/DSCF0030.JPG
http://pics.xs.to/pics/04090/DSCF0032.JPG

I would also like to note before someone else points it out. I may have said it before. I didn't do as I suggested with the gasket and marker. I didn't buy the right gasket when I wanted to do it, and I looked and saw lines from the previous gasket that had been on it, went from there. one of the ports needs a little bit of a "fix" as I sorta made it too wide on one side of the mouth. I will see what I can do. I assure you of this though. If these heads go south and don't produce any results worth noting. I'll buy another pair and try again(i'm wasteful with money aren't I?)
 
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