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Discussion Starter #1
When I am driving and tap in the gas pedal, I get no reaction unlike other cars I (have) had. I did not know if this is par for the coarse of a 3.8l or it is in the throttle body, computer or tranny.

Anyone else experience this? Any ideas?

Thanks.
 

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heh... mine too... but thats because the previous owner ran the transmission for god knows how long with only a dribble of fluid....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
heh... mine too... but thats because the previous owner ran the transmission for god knows how long with only a dribble of fluid....
Hmmm.... interesting. I wondered if it might be the tranny. Let's see what others have to say as well.

Thanks sin!
 

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I don't see how the torque convertor or the tranny could be causing the car to have poor off-idle response. Maybe once the car has started moving, I could see slippage or maybe if tranny fluid is low enough to keep the tranny from engaging.

My 3.8L T-bird has always had very poor off-idle response. It seems once the car gets going it's fine, say past 1500 - 1700 rpms. Anything below that and the car just falls on it's face.

BTW, I just got the car around a month ago, and I've performed several maintenance steps, like, tranny fluid change w/filter, tune-up, new brakes, tires, altenator, etc....

The car almost acts as if the tip-in timing never happens......
 

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PostSlut
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tip in timing...ehh, okay.

:zwall:
 

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tip in timing...ehh, okay.

:zwall:
Most computer controlled cars have more aggressive tip-in timing than when simply cruising along. Tip-in, off-idle response sucks A$$. BTW, come over and drive this thing tonight, you'll see what I mean. Besides, you still have not driven it yet.....
 

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PostSlut
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Most computer controlled cars have more aggressive tip-in timing than when simply cruising along. Tip-in, off-idle response sucks A$$. BTW, come over and drive this thing tonight, you'll see what I mean. Besides, you still have not driven it yet.....
I will.....oh...silvia brown is on....I hate that b1tch :mad:
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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gears help :tongue: seriously, do a complete tune up. chances are you have a clogged fuel system.

how cute, two brothers posting one after another :D kris, check your pm's.
 

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PostSlut
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gears help :tongue: seriously, do a complete tune up. chances are you have a clogged fuel system.

how cute, two brothers posting one after another :D kris, check your pm's.
I don't think he's replaced the fuel filter yet, but has done a complete ignition tune up on it.

btw mike, he plays drums too.
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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i was talking to white lincoln about the tune up, but i suppose kris applies too :)

ah yes, i believe you told me that before. awesome, awesome.
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Dirty Maf sensor ?
 

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PostSlut
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Dirty Maf sensor ?
I cleaned it.....

He should give more history on the car....the car has sat for like 4 years with not moving.
The guy who owned it, already did head gaskets.
The o2's have never been replaced.....nor has the exhaust(the cats) been checked for being clogged either.
The car throws no cel.

I think either its the cats or o2's.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Actully, there are few things I have to try but I think that 96qts has it right that the 3.8l with the tranny it has is a bit underpowered during low rpm's. One thing I need to try is examine the o2's and see what shape they are in. Has anyone done this to them before to breath life back into them?

http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=76.0

I am also replacing the muffler and exhaust pipe (it's time - car sounds like it's farting through a straw). I got a great deal on both from ebay (new, unused). I also thought about the fuel filter, its been a while since I last did one, but not that many miles ago. Also, I just did an overhaul on the top end and it runs good, just the throttle response is crap - but it was before I did the heads. I had a motor mount that fell apart in my hands when I took out from under the engine mount! Anyway, I will let you guys know after this weekend. BTW: I need to put a 195 deg t-stat back in as well and replace the lower hose - not that it has anything to do with the idle.

Brothers...

"I once had a brother..." Desporado
 

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PostSlut
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Actully, there are few things I have to try but I think that 96qts has it right that the 3.8l with the tranny it has is a bit underpowered during low rpm's. One thing I need to try is examine the o2's and see what shape they are in. Has anyone done this to them before to breath life back into them?

http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=76.0

I am also replacing the muffler and exhaust pipe (it's time - car sounds like it's farting through a straw). I got a great deal on both from ebay (new, unused). I also thought about the fuel filter, its been a while since I last did one, but not that many miles ago. Also, I just did an overhaul on the top end and it runs good, just the throttle response is crap - but it was before I did the heads. I had a motor mount that fell apart in my hands when I took out from under the engine mount! Anyway, I will let you guys know after this weekend. BTW: I need to put a 195 deg t-stat back in as well and replace the lower hose - not that it has anything to do with the idle.

Brothers...

"I once had a brother..." Desporado
sounds like a plan....let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is some more info I found about o2's, thought it was good info for all.\\

from: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/O2sensors.html

"Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.

Use a high impedance DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems.

ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph. "

I have a couple o2's from my old 89 Continental that I am going to try this on.
 

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heh.. no dice.. mine was crappy before i changed the ORIGINAL o2's (at 180,xxx mi.) little improvement, but not much.... could be that i havent changed my air filter in about 6 months, and i live on a dirt road.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
heh.. no dice.. mine was crappy before i changed the ORIGINAL o2's (at 180,xxx mi.) little improvement, but not much.... could be that i havent changed my air filter in about 6 months, and i live on a dirt road.
E-gads man! :eek: At least stick a sock or t-shirt in there! That has to better than a clogged filter!
 
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