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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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Discussion Starter #1
the connections are loose at the shock tower end of my uca's. i tried tightening the nuts down but that didnt help much. the ball joint boots look fine.

has anyone else tracked down any rattling/clunking in the same place? im wondering if the shock tower area of the uca's is a common source of noise.
 

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the connections are loose at the shock tower end of my uca's. i tried tightening the nuts down but that didnt help much. the ball joint boots look fine.

has anyone else tracked down any rattling/clunking in the same place? im wondering if the shock tower area of the uca's is a common source of noise.
Mike if you tightened the bolts and that didn't solve the loose. Then the bushing must be shot, like gone.

Is there movement in the arm at the shock tower?
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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Discussion Starter #3
Is there movement in the arm at the shock tower?
oh yeah, i can definitely see the entire uca/spindle assembly move just a bit.

im asking if this is a common issue for the uca's to be loose at the towers, or if there is a brand to stay away from in which the bushings can fail early causing movement.

the previous owner had the uca's replaced, but im surprised to see them fail so soon. im wondering if he didnt get the right brand. hence the reason for my inquiries.
 

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oh yeah, i can definitely see the entire uca/spindle assembly move just a bit.

im asking if this is a common issue for the uca's to be loose at the towers, or if there is a brand to stay away from in which the bushings can fail early causing movement.

the previous owner had the uca's replaced, but im surprised to see them fail so soon. im wondering if he didnt get the right brand. hence the reason for my inquiries.
Was the car lowered when you got it?

It's possible that they were tightened with car up and then lowering it put lots of tension on the bushings.
 

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My blue car had perfect boots on the UCA's but both ball joints are very shot.

-Miller
 

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My blue car had perfect boots on the UCA's but both ball joints are very shot.

-Miller
Good point. Good boots does not mean good joints.


Mike just replace them and get it over with. The weekend of the 25th should be good for you.
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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Discussion Starter #7
Mike just replace them and get it over with. The weekend of the 25th should be good for you.
it was lowered when i bought it.

im not saying im not gonna replace them. cant i just get a question answered around here?

25th, umm yeah, nothing going on that weekend, that i know of.
 

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The Band, not the Disease!
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has anyone else tracked down any rattling/clunking in the same place?
Yep, my mark VIII's UCA's move from side to side, and they def. make a noise. Also my Wheel Bearings and Air Struts do to... =P
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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Discussion Starter #10
well, what do you know. both of the nuts closest to the firewall were, in fact, loose. i didnt have an 18mm wrench on me the first time, so i couldnt get to the firewall side nuts. i went to break them loose prior to changing out the uppers, and they were already loose. passenger side took about half a turn to tighten all the way, and driver side took about a quarter turn.

my rattle is finally GONE, after replacing nearly even front suspension component. i think a few of us are guilty of doing just that.

so gentlemen, check your fasteners to see if they are loose before you replace something.
 

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well, what do you know. both of the nuts closest to the firewall were, in fact, loose. i didnt have an 18mm wrench on me the first time, so i couldnt get to the firewall side nuts. i went to break them loose prior to changing out the uppers, and they were already loose. passenger side took about half a turn to tighten all the way, and driver side took about a quarter turn.

my rattle is finally GONE, after replacing nearly even front suspension component. i think a few of us are guilty of doing just that.

so gentlemen, check your fasteners to see if they are loose before you replace something.
my dad recently leanred that lesson the hard way.

he has a 95 cummins 2500 and a wire that operates the fuel shut off relay and silonoid had been corroded off the battery terminal he spent 500 bucks on parts to no avail to literally twist 2 wires together and have the issue solved.
 

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Hey Big Mike,

I am trying to send you a PM...but it keeps saying your box is too full. Need to clear some of that out before you can receive any more PM's...

Thanks.
 

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He's out of pocket for a couple days. I'll tell him to get with the program.
 

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I have heard that you have to tighten those bolts with weight on the car. What happens if you don't?
 

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well, what do you know. both of the nuts closest to the firewall were, in fact, loose. i didnt have an 18mm wrench on me the first time, so i couldnt get to the firewall side nuts. i went to break them loose prior to changing out the uppers, and they were already loose. passenger side took about half a turn to tighten all the way, and driver side took about a quarter turn.

my rattle is finally GONE, after replacing nearly even front suspension component. i think a few of us are guilty of doing just that.

so gentlemen, check your fasteners to see if they are loose before you replace something.
Mike
Can you take a pic ? I cant place them in my mines eye :( For i have a bit of a rattle at times in my Frt end
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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Discussion Starter #17
Mike
Can you take a pic ? I cant place them in my mines eye :( For i have a bit of a rattle at times in my Frt end
for the firewall sides? they are kind of hidden down there. i believe they are real close to the bottom end of the hood shocks.
 

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Roger that , Thank you sir , I have a Bird project again :D
 

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for the firewall sides? they are kind of hidden down there. i believe they are real close to the bottom end of the hood shocks.
Lost your stool so you couldn't see in that far could ya.
 
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