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Nice find Joe! Hopefully there are no hidden issues. Definitely worth saving.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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The adjustment screw should be able to move but should also have a fair amount of tension when tightening(or ‘loosening’ if it’s double adjustable). Don’t Turn it more than a quarter turn and back it off immediately after so you don’t end up with a backbow, It’ll probably actually need some relief after not having string tension on it for some time.

Most of the time if they don’t move it’s corrosion, but the other metal parts look so clean that I’d wager it’s fine.
 

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Well I couldn't resist a pickup change. Cheapies but goodies, Guitar Madness Hexbucker (Super Distortion clone) in the bridge position, and in the neck a 57 Classic (Gibson PAF clone).

Also changed the knobs to Witch Hats since one of the previous ones cracked during the shielding process(wrong spline for the pots). Not everyone's favorite style, but I like em.

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Before/After, just shy of a month after buying it!

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Dude, not to *****, but those labels should say "Magic" and "More Magic"

Search that puppy, lol.
 

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My cousin was over earlier in the week. We took our kids out of school since they had never met my cousin's daughter (2nd cousins, right?) and we all went to Universal Studios. We had been to Disneyland and Legoland several times already, but this was the kids' first time to Universal Studios.

I have to admit, I hadn't been to Universal Studios in well over 15 years, and lots has definitely changed in that time. Many of the attractions that had previously been anamatronic has changed to the 3D thing. While cool, I don't feel it's as cool as the old anamatronic thing. For example, the Universal Tour has the King Kong thing changed and it just didn't make you quite feel that you were "in it". It's hard to explain.

The fact that it was a Wednesday when EVERYONE is still at work and school made the trip to the park well worth it. There were no lines for anything and the longest wait for anything was 10min.

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My kids and my cousin's daughter playing in front of the Universal Globe.

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I was at universal Orlando when I was a kid, the animatronics were awesome! Screw 3D, it’s a cheap downgrade!

Dude, not to *, but those labels should say "Magic" and "More Magic"

Search that puppy, lol.
Well due to a sloppy solder joint it did go dead flipping it to the magic position, not far from the story ?
 

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Effing dog! :Mad: If I had it my way, I wouldn't have any dogs!!

The dumb sh!t decided to "squeeze" in between my father in law and the hardiebacker board I had set up in the hallway while I worked in the bathroom. He caused the hardiebacker board to fall over and crack down the middle. I should be able to still use it for smaller cuts, but I'm not sure if I'll have enough for the whole bathroom without having to go out and buy another one.





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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Is that the 1/4" Hardie? That's used for floors or over top of an existing wall (gypsum). If you're using it that way just use the scoring tool to cut away the area around the tear and use fiber tape and mortar before you trowel the mortar on for tile. If it's going direct to the studs for a wall you should use 1/2".
 

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Yes, it's 1/4" Hardie. Yes, it's going straight onto studs. It's all Home Depot carried, so I didn't get 1/2" Hardie. I was unaware that there was a 1/2" Hardibacker product until now that you mentioned it.

The layers are (in order from the studs out):
  • Stud(s)
  • Furring strips
  • Water proof paper
  • 1/4" Hardiebacker board
  • Fiber tape (joints)
  • Red Guard Waterproofing Membrane (two coats, three coats around all joints)
  • Mortar
  • Tile
  • Grout
 

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Furrying strips are already up. Right now I'm doing plumbing work and when that's finished up, my greenboard will be going up. Then it was going to be the hardiebacker boards.

So why are you concerned about the 1/4" stuff cracking? What makes the 1/4" stuff less suitable for going up on walls onto studs than the 1/2" stuff?

Also, I purchased these hardiebacker boards well over a month ago and I'm not sure if I can still return or exchange them at this point. The other thing is that I don't have a truck that I can load these up onto. I'd have to go through the extra hassle of having to borrow a truck from someone I know or rent a truck for a few hours.

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Yeah it's a pain. Had to enlist my brother's help to get all my drywall - on 3 separate occasions!

It's not the backerboard itself cracking, it can handle a bit of flex. It's flexing on the wall if it's pushed against that will stress the tile and bond to the backer that is more apt to cause the tiles, grout and mortar adhered to it crack (anyone in the shower who might bump against it, as you push grout in and finish it or even wipe/polish off the grout haze). Heck even the 1/2" Hardie stuff flexes noticeably when it's installed, but considerably less than the 1/4" would. Having worked with both it's a very noticeable difference in rigidity. Trust me I know it's a pain to backtrack on work already done but it's because I've worked with both that I'm doing my best to convince you to do just that - it'd have been a nightmare if I used 1/4" Hardie on the walls in my first shower project 13 years ago and I know you're doing your best do to this all right the first time.

The 1/4" stuff isn't recommended for walls just because it's not sturdy enough. I believe in product documentation it says it's just for floors and countertops. Again it's just too flimsy if pushed on, even with tile and mortar adding to the stiffness. If you were screwing it on top of drywall it would be fine, but by itself that's a no-go. That's why you need to use the thicker 1/2" stuff (though I guess technically it's just a tad under 1/2" thick). Plus with the 1/2" stuff it's easier to tape right up against regular drywall without needing to shim it away from the studs.

THD has a 90 day return policy back to original tender, and even beyond that you get in-store credit.
 

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The day I picked up the hardiebacker boards, I spoke with 3 different people who supposedly knew what they were doing. All 3 of them were standing there in front of me and even helped me load up the hardiebacker boards onto my cart knowing that it was for a bathroom project. How come none of them said anything about using 1/2" board over 1/4 board?

I mean, I know you can't speak for them, but why would none of them even say "hey, you need the 1/2" stuff".



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The last time I was at Lowes picking up root killer, the mouthbreathers in front of me told me the best way to kill roots was to convert my yard into an ecological disaster area, by pouring used motor oil all over the stump, and setting it on fire.

:rolleyes:

Sounds like CA is a lot like here, lol.

Did you know Root Killer is Potassium Nitrate? It says so on the bottle...
 

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Can't speak to that... when I worked at a Home Depot back in the day sometimes you found really knowledgeable associates and sometimes the guys didn't have a clue. If you're set on using the 1/4 stuff, well, I hope it works out for you.

 

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I went and got the 1/2" hardiebacker and returned the 1/4" hardiebacker. Since I have all my invoices emailed to me I was able to find when I purchased it. It was back in September. They returned it still, lol.

Between the truck rental and the extra cost of the 1/2" hardiebacker board over the 1/4", I only ended up spending an extra $30. Not bad I guess. What really got me was all the other stuff I also bought for this project. I swear, I have all these little things that just keep popping up that either nickle and dime me or just eat up a plethora of time. Today, was a day where both happened, lol.

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Just for giggles, here are a few pics of the bathroom remodel I did back at the in-laws' place in 2008... the subfloor and walls around the tub and toilet were completely rotted out. I had to gut the whole thing and rebuild it. There was also no floor support under the toilet flange.

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That looks great! I bet it was a great deal of work to get that all done. With it having a subfloor, I imagine that the house is either up on stilts or this is a second floor bathroom.

I just found out something strange about the electrical GFCI outlet in the bathrooom. It is on the same electrical panel switch as one of the outlets in my dining room. Weird.

The way I found out about it was that I was replacing the old GFCI outlet. It wasn't until my daughter got back from being out with my MIL and FIL that she wanted to be on her phone, and she makes the remark "Hey dad, there's no internet". After some troubleshooting the internet problem, I realized what it was that I was doing in the bathroom replacing the outlet may have been the issue. I take a look at the outlet in the dining room and the light on the power strip is off! I just now finished reattaching power to it and I checked the light on the power strip in the dining room. Low and behold, it's back on!

This particular outlet in the dining room powers up the ONT box for my Frontier FIOS modem. So while the LAN was active / on, there was no internet.

Definitely a "quirk" of having a home built in 1960, lol.
 

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Pic I took of the fleet. Polished the truck, have been making the red car more livable.
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The white 89 is in the garage, finally figured out what to do with it. Ill post more about that when I make progress
 
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