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Thanks you all! I'll have my handy son look at your responses and in the meantime I'm trying turning the panel off until I need hot water. No more 3 am dishwasher sessions for now 😂 For the moment I'm showered and happy 😉

I appreciate all the help 😊 You all are the best!
 

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So my son ran error codes and got two 11 codes (heater isn't turning on), but I can't see that that's relevant, since it's often not running when it shuts down 🤷

Meantime, turning it off at the breaker did nothing. I strolled the yard, donated blood to the local mosquito population, and even took some zinnia pics before flipping the switch back on, so what does that mean? I went in, couldn't turn on the control panel, took it apart, stripped the other wire (after going back out and turning off the power again), and my son made sure they got twisted back together and capped before we turned the power back on. I'm really confused!! It's still flickering, but I ran the dishwasher 😂 Just had to reset the temperature twice.
 

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To clarify- after my first extended trip to the breaker (turning the switch off, killing 15- 20 minutes, them flipping out back on), I checked to make sure disconnecting the wires in the wall and reconnecting still turned the controller on, which it did. So are we saying the wires in the wall are not letting the current through? Maybe there's a break inside the insulation somewhere? (See! Zinnias! Lol)


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Very pretty Lenise!

I must say, I feel you pain when dealing with politics and family. I had a row with my own family earlier this week.
 

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Oh man, I'm sorry. We never got ugly like that before. It's wearing everybody's humanity down 😭
(Either that, or three years after giving up on keeping the peace in a failed marriage, I've started saying what I think 🤔)

I do wish we lived closer. 8 hours is a long trip when I'm the only driver! Lately, though, I'm seeing the silver lining.
 

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So my son ran error codes and got two 11 codes (heater isn't turning on), but I can't see that that's relevant, since it's often not running when it shuts down 🤷
Operation and Installation manual

Here is the link to the operation manual .. there is a way to set up the unit without the controller ( if the fault lies within the controller ) .. disconnecting the circuit breaker should disable the unit and letting it sit for some time should clear out any stored memory or fault codes. The fact that it is pulling error codes still, there must be a backup power supply / batteries inside and entering some kind of protection or safety mode.

Page 4 shows the safety features in the event of a loss of power / gas ..
Page 6 shows how to set the DIP switches if you wanted to operate the unit Without the controller ( if the controller itself is the problem )

Page 10-11 .. Code / Fault and Remedies
11
No Ignition
Check that the gas is turned on at the water heater, gas meter, or cylinder. Ensure gas type and pressure is correct. Ensure gas line, meter, and/or regulator is sized properly. Bleed all air from gas lines. Verify dip switches are set properly. Ensure appliance is properly grounded. Disconnect EZConnect™ or MSA controls to isolate the problem. Ensure igniter is operational. Check igniter wiring harness for damage. Check gas solenoid valves for open or short circuits. Remove burner cover and ensure all burners are properly seated. Remove burner plate and inspect burner surface for condensation or debris.

No code
Nothing happens when water flow is activated.
Clean inlet water supply filter. On new installations ensure hot and cold water lines are not reversed. Check for bleed over. Isolate unit from building by turning off cold water line to building. Isolate the circulating system if present. Open your pressure relief valve; if water is flowing, there is bleed over in your plumbing. Ensure you have at least the minimum flow rate required to fire unit. Ensure turbine spins freely. Measure the resistance of the water flow control sensor. Check for DC shorts at components


I am assuming everything was originally installed correctly and operating normally for some time before you started having problems. Things like the wiring connections, 120V at the unit, controller wired up correctly .. properly grounded, and installed per manufacturers recommendations.
The only thing you have been messing with this at this point is the wiring at the controller itself .. I would start by looking through the remedies for the Code 11 fault and possibly remove the controller to isolate that from the system. Be careful when working around gas and power if the unit is still powered up during diagnosis.
 

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I had a serious case of the "zies". Finally got off my butt and got working again.

Sanding is just about done. I just need to do a couple of touch-up here and there with sanding, and a hair more mud, and one last bit of sanding on that hair of mud. Then it's onto applying red guard, and paint. After paint, it's on to tiling the tub surround, and when that's done, flooring will be after that. Once the flooring is done, then I can get the toilet and sink installed.

I just need to make sure I keep at it. No more "zies" for me! Home stretch!!!

Oh, and I got a COVID haircut.
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Oh man, @Lenise ! Sorry to hear about your water heater troubles. Hopefully you get it working again. Hot water is something we all take for granted until we don't have it anymore.
 
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Operation and Installation manual

Here is the link to the operation manual .. there is a way to set up the unit without the controller ( if the fault lies within the controller ) .. disconnecting the circuit breaker should disable the unit and letting it sit for some time should clear out any stored memory or fault codes. The fact that it is pulling error codes still, there must be a backup power supply / batteries inside and entering some kind of protection or safety mode.

Page 4 shows the safety features in the event of a loss of power / gas ..
Page 6 shows how to set the DIP switches if you wanted to operate the unit Without the controller ( if the controller itself is the problem )
Thanks so much! I'll pass this on to my 15-yo handy guy. DIP switches takes me back to my college dot matrix printer 😂 Sounds like a good test/short-term workaround. In the meantime, maybe I'd better order that control panel. I just don't understand the code it's throwing, since the control panel wasn't even turned on (let alone the hot water) once when it failed, and it seems to work fine when the panel is lit. I wonder if those codes are old. It's been running for 12 years with no issues until earlier this year when my son found an ant colony on the circuit board and in the junction box. Nothing that obvious this time!

Thanks again 😊
 

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For what it's worth... This seems to be the recipe for success 😂 Guess I'm (well, number one son is, but I'm paying for it 😉) replacing the control panel.
39330
 

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Working on my Dakota a small bit today after taking the wife for a first consult on her back (they will get a new MRI and then consult after that for a firm diagnosis).

Finally got my backlit gauge faces on my spare cluster ...



Yes, I know the gas/volt gauges aren't backlit; the plug had come off the cable sometime in the last five years. And now I'm looking for an inexpensive, 1000 to 1800 RPM motor (120VAC or 12VDC is ideal) so I can run the odometer up to the 429,600 or so the truck is at now (it's a bit over 420,010 as I take this pic).

Yep, will need to backlite the odometers, and may need to backlight the gauges for the needles; but I have some needle paint to refresh those.

RwP
 

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For what it's worth... This seems to be the recipe for success 😂 Guess I'm (well, number one son is, but I'm paying for it 😉) replacing the control panel. View attachment 39330
Lenise:
If your son is curious: Integrated circuits don't have moving parts (well, most of them) but they do sometimes fry.
  • have him inspect the board for any traces (the metal lines) or components which look burned.
  • Some of the capacitors (the barrel looking pieces) might be leaking electrolytic fluid OR swollen.
  • A solder joint could also be loose which would cause intermittent failures.
If you do find something like that, it that board is simple enough that the component could be replaced as a spare if so desired.

I see no mechanical relays on this side of the board so I suspect one of the components on the power circuit died. If you son is inclined, you could easily buy him a cheapie soldering iron and he could try and fix it himself. Fixing some random circuit boards is how I started into engineering.
 

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He says he's done all that. He's already got the soldering iron 👍 My kid is smart. He knows way more about that stuff than I do 😂

Thanks for the further thoughts!

Now we all know Ralph is lying, right? 😉 A Dodge with HOW MANY miles 🤯 Anything original on that truck?
 

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Now we all know Ralph is lying, right? 😉 A Dodge with HOW MANY miles 🤯 Anything original on that truck?
Hee!

Well, the frame, the rear springs and bushings, the differential (an open currently), and some bolts here and there ... Oh, and the cracked to hell'n'gone dash pad.

One door, one fender, the cab, the bed, the hood, and the cowl cover.

MOST of the wiring :ROFLMAO: Oh, and the motor and transmission. Even if rebuilt, it's the same one, right? o_O Motor has had 45,000 since its rebuild; the transmission was rebuilt about 80,000 miles ago and repaired (the engine rebuilder didn't put the torque converter in quite right the first time, screwed the front pump, took several SEVERAL miles for it to barf and die) about 10,000 miles ago. It's about to get a new rear bushing and seal set in it, as soon as I can get over my fear of being left without wheels if I don't get it right the first time on a Saturday.

I've even swapped the HVAC box (but that was to minimize down time; pulled one out of the boneyard, rebuilt on a time/money available basis, then swapped them.)

MOST of the gauges in the truck now are original, too; but the set in the picture is a spare set I'm building up for the Dakota.

Control arms are, AFAIK, original; but the ball joints and bushings, no.

I'm redoing it as I go along; it's getting there, slowly but surely!

RwP
 
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My brother bought a Dakota new back in the mid-90s. He didn't keep it for too long. I think he wanted the cash to buy a house. Or his bride wanted the cash to buy a house 😂
 

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On my way to Home Depot last night I got behind a new Jeep Renegade for a few moments. It pulled away from a stop at the traffic light and a bunch of blue smoke poured from the tailpipe.
 

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My old truck was a 97 ram 1500, 318.

Leaked coolant, oil, trans fluid, and ended up changing the rear axle. But that truck had almost 300k miles on it, original engine and trans, and never let me down. Got where ever I needed, even if it wasnt running exactly right. Sold it to a friend. Thing has been good to him so far as well.

That was something my grandfather always said. "Those chryslers might not always run right, but theyll always run."
 

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Yeah, it was the smaller one with those litlte "X" shaped reverse lights in the middle of the tail lights.
 

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Yeah, it was the smaller one with those litlte "X" shaped reverse lights in the middle of the tail lights.
Useless fact, they’re supposed to look like jerry cans. Some Jeep dork pointed that out to me when I made fun of them on Jalopnik or something when it came out. I have a Jerry can and I still don’t see the resemblance lol

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