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Discussion Starter #2
Hit a pothole coming off the highway in heavy traffic in Providence, RI. Obviously it was a massive pothole and I didnt have a chance to swerve around it with the rush hour traffic. Parked it for the night and ordered a Moog LCA. Going to go there and fix it on the spot. At least i wont have to worry about anything being frozen since its a new part.
 

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That wasn't the control arm's fault; it broke where it hit.

A straight line is a good sign of massive overload; but you can see where the arm hit the upper parts in the pic.

6000 lbs = 0k 20k lbs, not so much.
:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would have expected the same thing. My dads been a mechanic his whole life and never saw one snap. He did see them bend
 

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Look at the I-shape of the LCA in cross section. It's not going to bend much that way if any, due to how it's shaped.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ya shape has nothing to do with it. Its the how soft or hard the steel is. they must heat treat those LCAs because untreated steel bends. Im guessing they didn't heat treat it correctly. luckily the strut rod kept my wheel for falling off while i was still in motion.
 

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That arm seems like it cracked in a way that cast iron does. Is that what it's made of?

Kind of concerning seeing that. I'm still running the OEM lower arms in both my cars. I'm one of the few that prefers to squeeze new lower ball joints in, instead of replacing the entire arm. I find it easier to do that way and you can still get the OEM TRW ball joints at rockauto for almost nothing.

My Tbird has taken some pretty hard hits, since I also run it through the Winter, never had that happen thank God.
 

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That arm seems like it cracked in a way that cast iron does. Is that what it's made of?

Kind of concerning seeing that. I'm still running the OEM lower arms in both my cars. I'm one of the few that prefers to squeeze new lower ball joints in, instead of replacing the entire arm. I find it easier to do that way and you can still get the OEM TRW ball joints at rockauto for almost nothing.

My Tbird has taken some pretty hard hits, since I also run it through the Winter, never had that happen thank God.
I wonder if the OEM/TRW/Moog arms are forged rather than cast. I’m just speculating but are the ACDelcos are noticeably beefier in size than them, like their UCAs? Perhaps it’s possible they simply use a thicker casting to compensate for inferior metallurgy. :zdunno:
 

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Perhaps it’s possible they simply use a thicker casting to compensate for inferior metallurgy. :zdunno:
I was wondering that same thing. If that is true, it would probably hold true for the upper control arms as well. I specifically bought larger upper arms, NOS Dorman brand, harder to find... I did because of the larger size which I assumed meant they would be stronger. Maybe that isn't the case....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I compared the 2 arms side by side the Moog was slightly more beefed up. Acdelco looks pretty crappy in metal quality and now Im thinking they paint there product to hide the quality appearance. Moog was bare metal and looked better quality from what I could see. Id like to see if Moogs they are pited like the Acdelco on the inside.
 

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You should be able to get a replacement for that through either the reseller or the manufacturer. That's WAY not typical, and the photo of the break clearly shows it was a manufacturing flaw which caused it to fail there.
 

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No different than bending a connecting rod
Last time I looked, connecting rods were mainly end thrust one end, rotational the other; not cross like that was. And plenty of connecting rods have become 2 piece or more designs during failure ...

The previous break (pointed out by jtavares0701) sure didn't help any.

RwP
 

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That cross section is good metal; the crack cause water ingression, that started working on it.

Rust applies a lot of force as it grows.

That's what good metal looks like, broken. Small grain boundaries, and no 'elastic deformation".

If it stretches like taffy, that's when you know the metal is crap. :)

I'd bet you couldn't break one of those with a sledgehammer, personally.

I have an old one; when it gets warm this year, I'll give it a shot. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You should be able to get a replacement for that through either the reseller or the manufacturer. That's WAY not typical, and the photo of the break clearly shows it was a manufacturing flaw which caused it to fail there.
Yes i did look into it. I ordered both sides off Rock Auto. They dont warranty parts but Acdelco does. Im going to try to get credit towards a different part. I already fixed my bird with a Moog and honestly dont want to put another Acdelco suspension part on my car.
 
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