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Discussion Starter #1
I drove my car for 70K with a warped brake rotor. I now have a leak at the boot that is over the inner tie rod end. Would replacing the inner tie rod fix the leak? I've replaced outer tie rod ends and control arms already.

I did see Rockauto has a power steering rack kit for about 30 dollars. Would I need a seal from this kit? and is it a difficult job?

I'm not ready to attempt replacing the rack until I learn how hard this leak is to fix.
 

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If you find any fluid in the Rack & Pinion boots..The seals need to be replaced inside the rack..

Which requires removal of the rack,disassembly of the rack, and a bunch of specialty tools you don't own..

$30 in parts..$500 in speciality tools.. :rolleyes:

Just buy another Rack & Pinion..I haven't heard anything bad about the racks from Rack Doctor..Might be worth trying..






Rayo..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I read you need to support the engine from above to replace the rack and pinion and the stock engine brackets didn't work with the shorty exhaust.
 

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They do make an "Engine Support Fixture" you could use for this type of job..


A lot of guys just support the engine with an engine hoist though..

Your engine has lift brackets on both sides unless someone removed them..So I don't see what the problem would be there..

Worst case scenario if someone did remove your lift brackets is to remove the upper intake, and use the lower intake bolt holes to support the engine..

More than one way to skin a cat.. :diablo:

Harbor Freight even sells an Engine Support Bar-->>Engine Support Bar







Rayo..
 

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I actually use that exact harbor freight support bar at work when I drop transmissions out of Ford transit connects, which is at least once a week due to my companies poor choice of slot route fleet vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So nobody's going to come in here and say otherwise or that there's a "stop leak" in a bottle that works?

Rats.

I read a guy say "never again on jack stands" about changing out the rack and pinion.
 

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Aw, it wasn't that hard. Biggest problem was getting the rack/hose junctions in place. And THAT was more because of the front cross member than anything!

Suggestion: While the rack is out, do your motor mounts. It was a LOT easier with the rack out IME.

RwP
 

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So nobody's going to come in here and say otherwise or that there's a "stop leak" in a bottle that works?

Rats.

I read a guy say "never again on jack stands" about changing out the rack and pinion.
I'm in that club but had I lifted the engine higher I'm sure I would've been able to get it done more than halfway. It was funny you could either try the mounting bolts first and not have the lines screw in or you can have the lines screwed in but then the mounting bolts wouldn't line up. It's just awkward doing that kind of work with very little room to work in and had the car been on a lift then it wouldn't have been so back breaking.

I wish I would've thought about the motor mounts when I was under there.

You know my rack had never leaked but one day it was obviously bad when the toes were both sticking out so bad it looked as if the car was tired and wanted to lie down, lol. The car was still drive able and it still steered well enough but it was clunky.
 

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A few 4"x4" will also do the job of that support bar for a fraction of the cost. The last SC oil pan I changed that is what I did, but I used 1/4" aircraft cable (two cables with at least 2000 lbs rating each).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm trying to apply some logic here that a engine hoist might work with jack stands and the engine support brackets are a must for lifts that are just two wheel tracks.
So if its four hours labor plus alignment it may be $500 for the labor to install this plus tie rod ends and fluid?
My mechanic said you can find used lifts for $1500. Pour a slab and bolt it to the slab?
 

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I'm trying to apply some logic here that a engine hoist might work with jack stands and the engine support brackets are a must for lifts that are just two wheel tracks.
So if its four hours labor plus alignment it may be $500 for the labor to install this plus tie rod ends and fluid?
My mechanic said you can find used lifts for $1500. Pour a slab and bolt it to the slab?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-000-LB-L-2900-2-Post-Lift-Car-Auto-Truck-Hoist-FREE-SHIPPING/371376466859

$1580 delivered to your local freight terminal

http://www.asedeals.com/store/dannmar-portable-car-lift-maxjax/
Portable kit. Once you have the towers, you can set it up and wheel it away when not needed.
Only 8' lift needed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'd love to be able to stand and work under the car. I like the higher lifting cheaper model. I would need to pour a flat slab and choose carport or outside detached garage. Either way I'd get a lot of lift but exposure to the elements. I have been thinking about closing in the carport.
 
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