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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my sons car(the white 95 SC that I’ve posted about) started leaking power steering fluid. We changed the pump back around thanksgiving and it looked like the leak was coming from near there. I removed the line and the evo. Replaced the evo orings and the Teflon seal on the line. That fixed one leak but it still had another. After doing some digging it looked to be coming from the bottom of the pressure line. With the car running I pried on the line a little looking for the leak and it dumped all of the fluid out. It looks like maybe the metal has been rubbing on the block and I helped open it up some more.

This part has mostly been a rant. My bird is currently hogging my shop for its suspension rebuild so I’m stuck doing this outside in the dirt with these impossible to get to fittings. So as I’m trying to figure out how to get to them, I find that my hose has some weird port on it. Anyone know why this would be there? The top arrow is the end of the pressure line. The bottom arrow is pointing to a loop to hold the rubber cap on.



As I was searching around I found this on rockauto. It has a hole for a fitting.



So my questions.

1) I already have everything to upgrade the line on my car to AN per the tech article. The part about grinding the russel fitting down to fit in the pump and not block the hole in the threads doesn’t apply to cars with an EVO right? Because my line will screw into the evo and not the pump itself. Unless I’m missing something.

2) For those with super coupes or maybe it applies to other engine compartments too. Can I get to the rack side fitting from the top? I already have the upper intercooler pipe off. If I remove the lower pipe it looks like I may be able to reach the top of the rack.
 

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If you have tiny hands, maybe. My hands do not fit there on my 4.6 cars, and you have an intercooler to deal with, iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ve already got the upper intercooler piping off. It wouldn’t take much to remove the bottom one. The picture I posted is looking down from the top of the engine bay.
 

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With both intercooler pipes out of the way, there is plenty of room to get to that fitting from the top. It is tucked away slightly under the motor mount, but pretty easy to get to once the intercooler pipes are removed.
 

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I know on the 4.6 its a nightmare to get to the topside, on my SC I changed that line with the motor out (for other repairs). I know the 4.6 the top side of the rack swivels and there isn't much room between the block and sub-frame so I'd say it be easier to lower the rack leaving the tie rods connected but just to let it come down a few inches to get to the top connection from underneath the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
With both intercooler pipes out of the way, there is plenty of room to get to that fitting from the top. It is tucked away slightly under the motor mount, but pretty easy to get to once the intercooler pipes are removed.
That's what I wanted to hear. Lol. Hopefully I can get back to working on it friday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The line was rubbing like I thought. Behind the oil filter. The second pic is the rack side end of the line with an extra fitting on it. Not sure what the purpose is.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So it came like that?
 

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I am not familiar with anything beyond the 4.6.

But I did this in my effort to do the tech upgrade mentioned:







It might not appear that I did this mod with the engine installed, but I did. It was indeed a PITA, mostly getting the fitting into the pump without cross threading, that took a few tries and a few fittings to get right. The aluminum yields to the cast iron every time.
The only other thing I have is that I removed the variable assist valve. That stiffened the steering at low speeds but also removed the "mush" you can feel at low speeds. Being underdriven 25 %, it sometimes take a touch of throttle to ease the steering into action at low speeds. The end result is a more solid and linear feel to the steering. Getting rid of 5 feet of hard line and all my annoying leaks was the goal. I replaced all that hard line with 10" of stainless, a good tradeoff.
I also replaced all my front control arms, uppers, lowers, inners, outers and the rack itself. The hubs are upgraded to 94-04 Mustang as well.

Best of luck, I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We just got it finished a few hours ago. No more leaks. It was a pain in the ass, which I expected. I ended up removing the alternator and power steering pump in order to remove the lower intercooler tube. There’s plenty of access with those out of the way. I’ve got to do my 94 too, so I’ll be doing this all again, except I’ll be swapping out the rack.
 

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What size is that braided AN line? Is it a teflon liner? Just curious, i see different materials offered for liners. I went with PTFE line for fuel, but that was to avoid gas smells/leaks over time. Thanks
 

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What size is that braided AN line? Is it a teflon liner? Just curious, i see different materials offered for liners. I went with PTFE line for fuel, but that was to avoid gas smells/leaks over time. Thanks
From experience: DO NOT use regular rubber-core AN hose for the power steering high pressure side. It will fail. PTFE-lined hose, like Russell Powerflex is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I used the aeroquip parts linked in the tech article.

 
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I am not familiar with anything beyond the 4.6.

But I did this in my effort to do the tech upgrade mentioned: View attachment 52095
View attachment 52098
View attachment 52096
View attachment 52093
View attachment 52097
View attachment 52094

It might not appear that I did this mod with the engine installed, but I did. It was indeed a PITA, mostly getting the fitting into the pump without cross threading, that took a few tries and a few fittings to get right. The aluminum yields to the cast iron every time.
The only other thing I have is that I removed the variable assist valve. That stiffened the steering at low speeds but also removed the "mush" you can feel at low speeds. Being underdriven 25 %, it sometimes take a touch of throttle to ease the steering into action at low speeds. The end result is a more solid and linear feel to the steering. Getting rid of 5 feet of hard line and all my annoying leaks was the goal. I replaced all that hard line with 10" of stainless, a good tradeoff.
I also replaced all my front control arms, uppers, lowers, inners, outers and the rack itself. The hubs are upgraded to 94-04 Mustang as well.

Best of luck, I hope this helps.

There is a company that maes AN fitting that thread into the rack so you do not have to use the swivel albows anymore. All my leaks from the past has been from the elbow gasket/seal that is between the elbow and the rack.
The new adapters seal perfectly without an elbow. Just a bolt head shape with the AN threading to its angle peak to connect a hose with an AN fitting to match.

Google "ford power steering rack AN fitting" and it will pull up what I am talking about. I hope that helps.
 

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I have a couple of those AN rack fittings, i had AN power steering lines on other cars. For this one, i just used stock Terminator P/S lines, since i had them already. I did have a P/S leak but it was leaking at the input shaft. Replaced the rack and no more leaks.
I might swap out the Terminator lines for AN lines in the spring
 
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