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Discussion Starter #1
First, I noticed that the power assist would take a second to engage during curves while driving at highway speeds and it had been that way for the last few years. Nowadays the power assist seems to come and go while driving at low speeds and now the hesitation during highway speeds is getting to the point where it's becoming dangerous. I had been suspecting that it's because of the pump but now I'm wondering if it's just the actuator or some other part of the EVO.

Other than the pump and the res. everything else has been replaced already. I flushed the fluid yesterday and at first there seemed to be no change. The pump doesn't seem to make as much noise as before but it does seem that the PS works quieter when it's hotter outside anyhow. Hell, before I changed the fluid the car didn't seem to want to start a few days ago until I added a dash of fluid.

I went ahead and bought a new pump and pulley but I'm still wondering about the EVO. I remember reading posts in the past about how it could go bad but I can't seem to find those specific posts. I found other topics that almost say the same thing but I'm still not certain if it's just my old pump or the EVO. I'm almost a little scared to see how much the actuator costs from the dealership for I don't see this part listed on any other websites.

I've always wondered if the pump was the cause of my belt either becoming slightly shredded upon start up or over small amount of time.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123264&highlight=Belt
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The pump was still rather noisy this morning and the power assist did hesitate for sure during parking so I'm guessing no matter what I need to replace the pump and the actuator. I just wish that unplugging the EVO will help and I'll get to that when I finally have time.
 

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Be sure to flush the system out when you swap the pump out.

The pump I bought was non-EVO, but EVO compatible - I had to swap the EVO into it.

So, I'd try with that first, and the EVO unplugged. If it's all happy, you can drain down about a pint or so, install the EVO (be SURE to re-ORING it first! There's a listing of the part #s from Ford elsewhere on the forum here) and see how it runs. That way if it returns, at least all you need to do is drain down and put the non-EVO coupler back in.

RwP
 

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My steering was stiff all the time when I bought my car. I got under there and unplugged the EVO sensor and could hear the actuator spring back to the "open" position. Turns out crud had built up in there and the actuator wasn't moving anymore. I flushed out the fluid, left the actuator unplugged for a day, plugged it back in, and it's worked great ever since.

I believe the EVO actuator is obsolete so if that's the problem, just keep it unplugged or you'll have to shop for a used one somewhere.

If I was you, I'd unplug the actuator electrical connector for a day or so, go for a drive and see if the steering is more consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Mega thanks for the replies! It's awesome that I can go without it when I change the pump but having full assist all the time concerns me if I have to make a sudden lane change. Then again I'm assuming that the reason power assist is turned off during those instances is because most people over correct. I'm starting to believe now that maybe it will work fine after giving it a short break. No matter what that pump has got to be swapped but that won't happen until my next day off this Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, unplugging it hasn't made any change in the behavior of the pump. I plugged it back in and still noticed no change and I'll leave it unplugged tonight while I'm delivering pizzas. There seems to be a 4" delay in the steering before I can feel the full assist. Has nobody ever had to replace the steering sensor?

I was sent home a couple hours early from work so I attempted to swap the pump. I probably would've gotten it done if I had an 18 mm wrench handy. I live in an apartment and I'm still in the middle of moving all my tools from my parent's garage to here. At least it forced me to go ahead and do the Mercon V switch.

I'm confused if I'm supposed to take the pulley off before removing the pump like the Haynes manual says or just remove the pump and then the pulley like the Chilton says. I love how the engine appears to be upside down in the picture in the Haynes and it's too bad I didn't see the little diagram in the Chilton until today. Until I had the new pump in my hand I had always assumed that the bolts were behind the pulley. I don't see why I would have to remove the pulley unless it makes it easier to remove that high pressure hose I couldn't mess with today.
 

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I had some problems with the EVO system when my inner tie rod ends were worn; there is a sensor on the steering, under the dash, that senses rate of change of steering input.

If it sees a 'sudden' movement, (like the back and forth we do when that stuff is worn) it shuts down for a certain period of time or something, because it does come back.
 

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I don't know that you can remove the pump without removing the pulley. There isn't a way to get a wrench on the tube nut so as to remove the high pressure line from the pump with the pulley in the way. At least, no way I've cared enough to try and find. :)
 

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...If it sees a 'sudden' movement, (like the back and forth we do when that stuff is worn) it shuts down for a certain period of time or something, because it does come back.
Yeah but now with the EVO actuator disconnected he still has issues, so now I'm thinking it's pump related and not electrical.

Hey I'm pretty sure there's an EVO diagnostic port under the glove box. I'm too lazy to look it up in the manual, but if replacing the pump doesn't help, I'd look into that next (diagnosing).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I'm going to replace the pump before I go looking for the steering sensor or a code reader. I'm sure I also need a new pigtail for the pump for the many shredded belts did do a number on that at some point. I guess I wouldn't call it a 4" delay but more like a 1.2-1.5 second delay that sometimes lasts even longer. Braking while turning seems to make it even worse. Even when the car is parked I can jerk the wheel side to side and tell when I have full assist and no assist at all.

I guess I forgot to mention that over the last year or two I've already replaced all of the tie rods and the rack. As far as the entire front end goes everything but the springs and "struts" have been replaced but the Raybestos strut rod bushings do become mushroomed and shredded very quickly. I did replace one of those bushings today but it didn't make any difference in the steering. I do have doubts about my front end and I cannot find any loose nuts but I have a feeling I might need new hub bearings someday soon. I will replace most of those same front end parts again because when I did it the first time only the sway bar bushings were replaced with a good brand, Moog. I just had to get it done and I didn't have much more than $200 to get it done 2 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wish that the first time I tackle a job it wouldn't take 2-3 times longer than it should. Had I known that I needed an 18 mm LINE wrench I would be done right now. I don't think I rounded the AN fitting much but the Teflon seal is nowhere near compressed yet. I might regret having already pushed the pulley about 7/9 of the way on. I can only hope I can get the tool during lunch tomorrow and finish the dang install before I go to my other job where I kind of really need to use the car. Having 3 jobs is great when it comes to having money in my pocket but it's hell trying to get anything done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I'm going to assume that new or re-manufactured pumps are a little noisy in the beginning and need to be broken in or I need to order one from Ford. It was extremely loud at first but either plugging in the EVO helped the most or it has quieten some while I've been delivering pizzas. Funny thing is it's dead quiet when idling in Drive or Reverse but loud when in Park. Only around 600 rpm is when it's quiet.

Functionality wise the steering feels great but I can't always roll the windows up and use my 1300 watt stereo to drown out the sound.

Do I look crazy always talking to myself online?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll try to keep in mind that maybe some people will assume that I have a turbo or a supercharger but without a louder exhaust my car sounds too much like a sleeper. The noise does resemble a police siren at times so I've been checking my rear view mirrors much more often.

It does feel like I'm driving a brand new car though. I'm even seeing an increase in mileage but that's hard to say for sure because I need to replace the odometer gears again. You may think I'm over exaggerating but flushing my power steering for the first time a few years ago did solve the pulling to the left during heavy braking. So far I haven't heard a single chirp from the belt and I'm hoping it won't become shredded anytime soon. I did let the pulley stick out about .10" inch because then it all looked very strait to my naked eye.

I think I may still have a leak coming from the high pressure fitting but I won't know for sure until after I finally wash the car. (And yes, I did replace the Teflon seal.)
 
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