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How hard is it to remove the power steering pump on a 1997 Thunderbird 4.6 liter V-8? I need to replace the negative battery cable on my car and it's just about impossible to get at the end of the cable where it's bolted to the block, just behind the oil filter. Someone on this forum suggested removing the power steering pump to make it easier to get at and I have a couple of questions about that:

1. Can the pump be removed without removing the pulley or does the pulley need to be removed in order to get at all the pump mounting bolts? ALLDATAdiy.com doesn't specify removing the pulley to get the pump off, but my Haynes manual does.

2. Can the pump be repositioned enough with all the lines attached to it to get behind it to access the battery cable or will I need to remove the lines, too?

Thanks, in advance, for any help!

Dennis
 

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There is one bolt behind the pulley so it definitely needs to be removed requiring a special tool. I don't know about #2.
 

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Not bad after you do it a couple of times . The hard part will be one bolt thats a pain in the ass with its qtr turns .
I used a slim and short 10mm open wrench for that bolt , you can use a ratchet for the other three bolts .

1 . No need to remove the pulley , just unbolt it and move to the side

2. I don't think you need to remove the lines just be careful not to mess anything up .


Just remove evrything in your way man , dont fight with it .
 

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How hard is it to remove the power steering pump on a 1997 Thunderbird 4.6 liter V-8? I need to replace the negative battery cable on my car and it's just about impossible to get at the end of the cable where it's bolted to the block, just behind the oil filter. Someone on this forum suggested removing the power steering pump to make it easier to get at and I have a couple of questions about that:

1. Can the pump be removed without removing the pulley or does the pulley need to be removed in order to get at all the pump mounting bolts? ALLDATAdiy.com doesn't specify removing the pulley to get the pump off, but my Haynes manual does.

2. Can the pump be repositioned enough with all the lines attached to it to get behind it to access the battery cable or will I need to remove the lines, too?

Thanks, in advance, for any help!

Dennis

Dennis' just cut that wire, get some welding wire and do your own Ground.
IMO is useless Work, Time and cursing about removing the P/S Pump.
Just make sure you clean off the connecting Points and you should have better Ground than stock.

-Maic
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dennis' just cut that wire, get some welding wire and do your own Ground.
IMO is useless Work, Time and cursing about removing the P/S Pump.
Just make sure you clean off the connecting Points and you should have better Ground than stock.

-Maic
Maic,

You make a valid point, but I'm one of those ultra-anal types who likes everything on his car to be factory stock and someone, at some point, spliced a "generic" end on the negative battery cable (the part that clamps to negative post) that looks horrible!

Plus, I'm installing a new Kenwood car stereo and amp (and Boston Acoustic speakers) as soon as they arrive from UPS, and the amp needs to have an 8-gauge wire hooked directly to the positive terminal on the battery. I want everything to look as stock as possible (including the negative cable) when I'm done!

I wish I wasn't so anal and could follow your advice! :)

Dennis

P.S. - I know the stereo system isn't going to be stock, but when I bought the car a little over 2 months ago, it had a crappy Sony CD player just set inside the dash (not even mounted to anything) and speakers in the doors only! I immediately ripped out the radio and the tangle of wires behind it (thank God they didn't cut the factory connectors!) and have driven the car for more than 2 months without a radio!
 

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Maic,

You make a valid point, but I'm one of those ultra-anal types who likes everything on his car to be factory stock and someone, at some point, spliced a "generic" end on the negative battery cable (the part that clamps to negative post) that looks horrible!

Plus, I'm installing a new Kenwood car stereo and amp (and Boston Acoustic speakers) as soon as they arrive from UPS, and the amp needs to have an 8-gauge wire hooked directly to the positive terminal on the battery. I want everything to look as stock as possible (including the negative cable) when I'm done!

I wish I wasn't so anal and could follow your advice! :)

Dennis

P.S. - I know the stereo system isn't going to be stock, but when I bought the car a little over 2 months ago, it had a crappy Sony CD player just set inside the dash (not even mounted to anything) and speakers in the doors only! I immediately ripped out the radio and the tangle of wires behind it (thank God they didn't cut the factory connectors!) and have driven the car for more than 2 months without a radio!
I can respect this. Still, it may be easier to find someone with a Engine Hoist, remove the Engine Mount Bolt's, lift the engine 3-4" and replace the Ground strip with a better AWG while keeping the factory look.
I see you in Ohio, so you should have a few TCCoA or SCCoA People around you
who may have a Hoist.

-Maic
 

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Something under my hood is squealing like no other and I believe it is my P/S pump; I fear I may have to replace it as I've already installed new idler pulleys, new bearings in the alternator, a new water pump and the A/C pulley/clutch is less than one year old (although I have a known good used clutch/pulley I can install). I have some diagnostics to do before I commit. After reading through this thread however I can't figure out if the pulley needs to come off or not to remove it. And anything else I would need to know regarding replacement?
 

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The pulley does not have to come off, but it will make things easier for you.
 
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