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I noticed quite a loud whining coming from my power steering pump, which gets worse when I try to pull the steering wheel (while stationary).

Should I just get the oil flushed? Or is this an indication that the pump is going bad?
 

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3.8s are mean to powersteering pumps. its going out, flushing won't help as far as I remember. Been through 4 personally. Flushing may quiten it a bit but not totaly
 

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Mine whines, but not any louder than normal I think. I actually kinda like it because it makes it sound like I have a little more than I should under the hood. :D

~Chuck
 

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CaliHwyPatrol said:
Mine whines, but not any louder than normal I think. I actually kinda like it because it makes it sound like I have a little more than I should under the hood. :D

~Chuck
hahaha, yeah i found yet ANOTHER power steering leak the other day. damn boot for the pinion arm is leaking. can you believe they gave me zip ties with it to attach it? please.....
 

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I assume by pinion arm boot you mean the boot that covers the inner tie rod end. Unfortunately the boot is not the leak (it is just a dust shield), the seals in your rack are leaking. The boot is just where the power steering fliud finds its way to the outside.
 

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yeah thats what i ment. well it sure looked like it was my problem. so far, so good, but what do you mean about it finding it's way to the outside?
 

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AS said above the boots are just dust covers. They aren't there to stop leaks.
If the rack is leaking it will come out of the boots on the rack. They are a loose fit.

AS for the whinning there is away of cutting the noise down.

When the power streering whines it is do to air in the system.
If there are know leaks Or maybe the power steering got low you can try this:

Fill the power steering fluid up.
Jack up the front end of the car...put on jack stands.
With out starting the car turn the steering wheel SLOWLY to the left until it stops and hold it lighty for awhile and than rotat to the right and do the same.
Do this sevel times.
This is letting the air bleed threw the system back to the res. If you see air bubbles in the res. after you have done this, it's working. Keep doing this until you do not see any more air bubbles appearring.

Kurt
 

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flush the fluid with some fresh merconIII, you'll be all set most of the time.

If the pump has dirty fluid in it, it will whine.
 

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Well if the Pump is low on Fluid it will whine or just time for a new one i always say .. but i hear Tranny Fluid works wonders for crap like even engine knocks
 

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GONE14S said:
AS said above the boots are just dust covers. They aren't there to stop leaks.
If the rack is leaking it will come out of the boots on the rack. They are a loose fit.

AS for the whinning there is away of cutting the noise down.

When the power streering whines it is do to air in the system.
If there are know leaks Or maybe the power steering got low you can try this:

Fill the power steering fluid up.
Jack up the front end of the car...put on jack stands.
With out starting the car turn the steering wheel SLOWLY to the left until it stops and hold it lighty for awhile and than rotat to the right and do the same.
Do this sevel times.
This is letting the air bleed threw the system back to the res. If you see air bubbles in the res. after you have done this, it's working. Keep doing this until you do not see any more air bubbles appearring.

Kurt
so how involved is it to rebuild a rack?
 

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The Stevinator said:
so how involved is it to rebuild a rack?
Not Hard just find the hoses and change them out thats what i did and mine is no longer leaking
 

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I just got a new ford pump off ebay for 40 bucks :D

I've replaced the rack before. I found myself in Minnesota with a rack that blew a seal and would hold fluid for about 2 seconds. I had to buy a belt to bypass the pump and drove 3 hours home with manual steering lol. Replacing the rack blows, I hope I never have to do it again. If I do I'll convert to a manual rack.

-Thomas
 

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well, perhaps the boot is holding the damn of power steering fluid inside the rack. that'll by me some time till i feel like screwing with it. the rebuild kit is like 30 bucks from the dealership. so, i'll probably have to get that.

thomas, did you have to use any special tools? and how much did the re-alignment cost?
 

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mine whined like crazy and eventually burned some of the fluid. and if you have to remove the pump its a ***** and expensive tool. you have to get a powersteering pulley puller, it cost me 105$ at Napa. And I bent it while doing it, also put the mounting bracket on the wrong way so had to use the bent tool. . . still got all my money back when i returned it. and my pump barely has 1000miles on it and still lightly whines but not as much as the catlike wail the old one had
 

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Replace the whole unit???

The Stevinator said:
so how involved is it to rebuild a rack?
Stevinator,

You may just want to purchase an entire rebuilt rack - either locally, or through RockAuto.com. New inner tie rod ends, seals and boots included. Usually a little over $100.00 (less core deposit). A good set of inner tie rods by themselves will be about 50 bucks, and that's not counting the $$$ for new seals and new boots.

The seals on mine never did leak - the inner tie rods went. Some play and "clicking" in the steering wheel.

Not hard to replace the rack, I just had a real fun time with the power steering hose connections to the rack on the reinstall (pronounced PITA). You've got two less cylinders than my ride... makes for a little more room to work with the hoses.

Drop the outer tie rod ends from the spindles, remove the hoses from the rack, remove the two large bolts holding the rack, and it's on the ground. Reverse to install (except cussing like a sailor to get the hoses right).

Lotsa luck either way. And either way, you'll need the toe-in checked when it's all back together. A piece of string, a scale, and an extra set of hands will get you close on the toe-in.

Just my "two Abe Lincolns" worth.

That is all...
 

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The Stevinator said:
well, perhaps the boot is holding the damn of power steering fluid inside the rack. that'll by me some time till i feel like screwing with it. the rebuild kit is like 30 bucks from the dealership. so, i'll probably have to get that.

thomas, did you have to use any special tools? and how much did the re-alignment cost?
if the boot is holding fluid, its only a matter of time before the seal wears out and bursts through the boot. Exactly what happened to me. It would have been easier with some tubing wrenches. I didnt get an alignment until later because I did more suspension work shortly after, but the toe was dead on surprisingly. All I did was count the numbers of twists it took to take the exhisting outter tie rod end off, and then did the same number of twists when putting it on the new (reman) rack.
-Thomas
 

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yeah, i was thinking i could count the threads. thats what i did when i replaced the boot. does anyone know what size socket that big *** bolt is that holds it on the k-member?
 
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