TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, for anyone who has done it. Can i simply undo the lower ball joint nut (and knock the joint out of the spindle) and have enough working room to press out the old ball joint and press a new one in, without having to remove the lower arm from the car?

And yes i know what ball joints cost vs the complete lower arm. However if i replace the lower arm i can't not do the shocks too, and then there's the cost of an alignment and that's all $$$ i don't have right now. Besides that i'd want to replace the rubber shock mounts, strut rod bushings etc. too if i'm was going to do all of that work.

I see Advanced/Partsamerica.com has TRW lower ball joints for $38 each. That's $20 less the the complete TRW arm and i don't have to do an alignment right away or all that other work. My bushings are in pretty good shape as the cars been in SW FL most of it's life so no urgency there. the sport shocks i can live with until i do a proper lower suspension rebuild.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Yes you can do it that way....

There is plenty of room...

I had one to come completely out in Walmart parking lot..

I pressed it out and back in right there in the parking lot...

But I used a ball joint press that I had go from Harbor Freight... They are well worth the money....

I had one side done in about 45mins...

Hope that helps...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, i should be able to get it done without to much hassle then. My brother has a ball joint press kit and autozone loans them out too, but i know the H-F when your talking about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,978 Posts
you mark the eccentrics and replace the arms. period. just doing the ball joint is a waste of money, dont be cheap this is your saftey your talking about. whats a set of oe strut rod bushings cost? 20 ? come on do this right or dont waste your time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,966 Posts
carquest makes a very good quality joint that includes a thick black rubber boot that seems to be more durable than the OEM clear plastic, also lower arm bushings for the frame mount are not that expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
you mark the eccentrics and replace the arms. period. just doing the ball joint is a waste of money, dont be cheap this is your saftey your talking about. whats a set of oe strut rod bushings cost? 20 ? come on do this right or dont waste your time
I beg to differ with ya....

I dont see why you would need to spend the extra money on a whole A frame when the only part that needs replaced is the ball joints....

and when it comes to safety..... well the ball joints are alot more important then the bushings...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,978 Posts
you obvoisly have never had a arm move around on you due to worn bushings. its a scary feeling, besides, 9out of 10 times, when the ball joints need to be replaced so do the bushings , besides dont worry about what i know i have only owned 8 of these cars .
 

·
Newbie
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
carquest makes a very good quality joint that includes a thick black rubber boot that seems to be more durable than the OEM clear plastic, also lower arm bushings for the frame mount are not that expensive.
Carquest == Moog
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
you obvoisly have never had a arm move around on you due to worn bushings. its a scary feeling, besides, 9out of 10 times, when the ball joints need to be replaced so do the bushings , besides dont worry about what i know i have only owned 8 of these cars .
Worn bushings may feel scary but ball joint separation is scary. ;)

I don't have the extra dough to do the whole arm and strut rod bushings plus an alignment.

And i'm not doing the arm unless i can do the shock while i'm in there too (maybe the springs too). I don't want to revisit it later just to do the front shocks. I will amass the parts i need and do it all at once. If i have to replace the lower ball joint in the mean time thats just the price of safety.

I have new TRW UCA's with bushings and ball joints and TRW sway bar end links (front and rear). I also have new Honeywell Bendix Made in USA sport rotors and Bendix titanium metallic pads to put on the front too (already done the rear last year).

you mark the eccentrics and replace the arms. period. just doing the ball joint is a waste of money, dont be cheap this is your safety your talking about. whats a set of oe strut rod bushings cost? 20 ? come on do this right or dont waste your time
I'm not doing anything on the cheap. That's why i can't afford to do all the work you suggest at this time. ;)

Just doing the lower ball joints isn't a waste of time or money. It's a matter of safety. If they need to be replaced they will be, that's regardless of if i can afford to do the rest of the lower end work i'd like.

Mind you there is nothing wrong with my OE lower arms. They still have the black paint on them, this isn't some rust belt beater. The only disadvantage to replacing the ball joint now and bushings later is that you can only get the Supercoupe strut rod-to-arm bushing by ordering the TRW SC LCA, or so i've heard.

So i would have to settle for the LX strut rod bushing if i reuse the LCA with new bushings. I'm pretty sure the Sport option came with the stiffer bushing there, like the SC. But it's not a big deal. Once the front end is rebuilt it will handle like it's new again. Well up front anyway. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thank god i don't live in Philadelphia anymore. The road salt was terrible on cars...

My Cougar was originally delivered to the Phila area but was driven down here a year or two later. Funny i'm from Philly too but i found the car here in SWFL. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
My car spends most of it's time within 100 yards of the ocean. If i listen closely, I can hear it rust....we have the road salt here too....it's horrible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,978 Posts
southpaw , there is nothing different about any of the front end bushings between a sport/lx, same parts, the arm is different on the sc for arc only. so your going to put a 40 buck ball joint in instead of a 60 buck control arm? and add another 30 bucks for the strut rod bushings at the arm. it will be alot easier and less aggrivation. not hard and worth the extra dollars
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,876 Posts
I just replaced the ball joint also. I didn't do the bushings. Mine were good. Now I may later down the road. Probably pretty soon. I'm going to park it and rebuild the whole car. New motor, (trans is new), suspension, rear end, and paint. It is gonna be fun. Then when I'm done, I'm gonna work on a real hot rod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
Just looking back through some old posts ........

I do not subscribe to the theory that everything in the front end wears out at the same rate. My UCAs were just replaced [with shocks to improve ride] because the upper ball joint boots were long toasted, and it cured a klunk which tells me they were worn [likely as not because of the bad boots letting out lube or letting in junk???]. There was no movement discernable when in place, but once removed, the joints were found to be some loose. The clunk was removed with them it seems.

I too, had on hand lower ball joints and press, I used my jack and several times I applied and released pressure on the LCA to check for slack, as one way the car's weight is supperted in tension, the other way the whole spindle/brake/wheel is supported with it in compression. I placed a finger tip across the span of the spindle lower boss and ball joint body to feel for slack.

There was no slack. Boots are in great shape. Car has about 130,000+ miles. The LCA inner bushing looked OK, and the strut bushings all were complete, whole, not cracked. I'ld say the LCA and strut assy will last another 50,000+ miles. I'll be checking on them often, but no need to replace good factory Ford articles with Moog that will need greasing and in my experience, may not last as long as the originals starting today.

Just thought I'ld throw my $0.05 worth in there.

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
also if you dont have a ball joint press but an extensive collection of sockets. you cal place a small socket over the top of the ball joint ( make sure it rests only on the ball joint).. and then a larger socket on the bottom of the ball joint ( makeing sure this one is larger then the ball joint bottom, and rest on the lower contoll arm). and then simply put a large C clamp on the sockets and crank on it, the small socket will press the ball joint out into the larger sockets open end. and it works just as good as a ball joint press if you have a big enogh socket/ c clamp.

also i know you said somthing about money being an issue, but i strongly recomend spending an extra $15 and buy the balljoints with the lifetime warrenty if you plan on owning the car for more then 3 months. the cheap ones blow out quick, and these cars eat ball joints anyways so spend the extra $15 now and save your self $40 next time it blows
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
Just looking back through some old posts ........

I do not subscribe to the theory that everything in the front end wears out at the same rate. My UCAs were just replaced [with shocks to improve ride] because the upper ball joint boots were long toasted, and it cured a klunk which tells me they were worn [likely as not because of the bad boots letting out lube or letting in junk???]. There was no movement discernable when in place, but once removed, the joints were found to be some loose. The clunk was removed with them it seems.

I too, had on hand lower ball joints and press, I used my jack and several times I applied and released pressure on the LCA to check for slack, as one way the car's weight is supperted in tension, the other way the whole spindle/brake/wheel is supported with it in compression. I placed a finger tip across the span of the spindle lower boss and ball joint body to feel for slack.

There was no slack. Boots are in great shape. Car has about 130,000+ miles. The LCA inner bushing looked OK, and the strut bushings all were complete, whole, not cracked. I'ld say the LCA and strut assy will last another 50,000+ miles. I'll be checking on them often, but no need to replace good factory Ford articles with Moog that will need greasing and in my experience, may not last as long as the originals starting today.

Just thought I'ld throw my $0.05 worth in there.

:)
Wow, 2008 … and that '92 is still OK but then it don't get drove a lot. It's my '95 that I've rolled up to about 118,xxx and has a loud left front lower ball joint squeak. I found a close out on RA and got two new Moog K8477 LBJs for $6.24 each, two for $22.13 delivered to my door. Might do it Monday. If it goes real smooth, might do the '92 too since I have the 4 (two just purchased and the two I bought years ago & misplaced, but found recently) joints on a shelf?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,669 Posts
I'm buying the ACDelco ones, and a few joints to refurb in the future, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
Closeout prices on RA. While awesome, I also find it sad.
Well, they still listed them after I bought them, but the price jumped into the high twenties each so I guess I got the last of the ones on the sell out, maybe a warehouse?? Anyway, went to AAP and picked out a new ball joint press set, put it on CC and will do both cars Monday I think since I have the ball joints, gonna be up in mid '60s.
Then I'll take the press set back for a CC credit.

Once a few years ago I found a close out on some Wagner brake pads, good ones, and there was a rebate offer too. I forget the numbers, but the rebate more than paid the price and part of shipping. Just takes luck.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top