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I was driving from lunch one day and it started to run and idle like ****. Every time i would put it into gear it would stall.
After work got it towed home, checked the spark plugs and they're super black but dry. Plugged the obd2 in and it gave me these codes
P0102 P0720 P1407 P1130 P1131 P1132 P0171 P0174 P0175

I already replaced the spark plugs and MAF sensor, the sensor works now, before i was getting no reading on the scanner.
The spark plug i replaced with NGK g power platinum. At this point when i try to start it itll crank like 2-3 times but no more. I dont know what to do at this point...
The other day when i was reading the codes i left the accessory on and drained the battery. I plugged it into a charger for a few hours got it up to 13v but every time i crank it it drops down to 10-11v. IDK if this has something to do with it, but when its at the 13v it cranks but when it drops to 11 it wont crank.

All the fuses look fine, there shouldn't be a vacuum leak as far as i know, i hear the fuel pump priming when i turn the key.
p1407, the egr valve thing, can that have something to do with it?

Idk what to look at next
 

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Charge your battery first.
 

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You think one of the problems could be the battery? With a decent charge it should be able to sustain a fair amount of cranking. Is it old, past its rated expected life?

When my 95 started running rough out of the blue it was usually a coil pack. Factor out new part quality concerns by using Motorcraft especially when it comes to ignition system parts.

What about a massive vacuum leak causing it not to idle? What's the condition of the rubber emission tee (Dorman 47072) in the rear of the intake manifold? Has some old vacuum hose completely failed?

No, EGR no-flow 1407 is not likely to cause those drivability problems. Rather if the EGR valve was stuck open it wouldn't idle.

Those rich and lean codes indicate problems with the metered air and fuel mix. Fuel pressure regulator? It's not clear to me if you got all those codes from a scanner before or after replacing the MAF sensor. A large air leak between the MAF sensor and the throttle body?

These are rhetorical questions. Questions for you to ask yourself as you work you way through this. First get it to crank, then get it to idle, then chase down the drivability issues.
 

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You think one of the problems could be the battery? With a decent charge it should be able to sustain a fair amount of cranking. Is it old, past its rated expected life?

When my 95 started running rough out of the blue it was usually a coil pack. Factor out new part quality concerns by using Motorcraft especially when it comes to ignition system parts.

What about a massive vacuum leak causing it not to idle? What's the condition of the rubber emission tee (Dorman 47072) in the rear of the intake manifold? Has some old vacuum hose completely failed?

No, EGR no-flow 1407 is not likely to cause those drivability problems. Rather if the EGR valve was stuck open it wouldn't idle.

Those rich and lean codes indicate problems with the metered air and fuel mix. Fuel pressure regulator? It's not clear to me if you got all those codes from a scanner before or after replacing the MAF sensor. A large air leak between the MAF sensor and the throttle body?

These are rhetorical questions. Questions for you to ask yourself as you work you way through this. First get it to crank, then get it to idle, then chase down the drivability issues.
I see, i see
The battery is on the older end from the looks of it, the battery does drop in voltage fairly fast when just turning it over
those codes were before the maf btw. There doesnt seem to be any damage to vacuum hoses, How can i test for a vacuum leak?
I suppose i should check for spark when i get back in front of it again
 

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Typical vacuum leak check is with the engine running, spray or release something inert or flammable around various locations around the engine and listen for a change in idle speed. Or with the engine running use a hose to focus listening for hissing. I've had the best luck with visual inspection. Also check on-line for cheap smoke test.

Use your old timing light for an easy spark test. If you don't have a helper, point it so you can see the light while cranking the engine. Note your car has a waste spark ignition system so you will see some bright and some dull flashes. This is normal. If you see any spark plug wires with no spark, the problem is probably the corresponding ignition coil pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update! So I did check for spark, I had spark on both the plug side and the coil side.
But today when I took my lunch I went to go talk to a shop I deliver parts to at work. I pretty much told him everything I said on here.
He taught me a little about fuel systems and vacuum systems, and he let me use one of his extra fuel pressure gauges.

When I got home after work I went to go try out this tool. Hooked the gauge up to the schrader valve on the top right of the fuel rail, idk if i did something wrong, but I got no pressure on the gauge.
So then I go to the fuel pump side of my fuel filter, I get 38 psi, seems fine to me. Then I go hook it up between the upper fuel line and the fuel rail, I only get 30 psi.
The metal quick disconnect on the front of the fuel filter looks marred up and isn't completely round. Could this be a culprit? A few months ago I tried to replace the fuel filter but didn't because I couldn't get that end off with the tool.
 

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I confused about the fuel pressure test gauge you used. Mine connects to the schrader valve on the fuel pressure regulator. I don't see how I could connect it to the fuel line push connect fittings, like the one on the fuel pump side of the fuel filter where you tested.

Key on engine off pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel pressure regulator should be between 35 and 40 psi.
 

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I confused about the fuel pressure test gauge you used. Mine connects to the schrader valve on the fuel pressure regulator. I don't see how I could connect it to the fuel line push connect fittings, like the one on the fuel pump side of the fuel filter where you tested.

Key on engine off pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel pressure regulator should be between 35 and 40 psi.
I used the big kit from harbor freight. The one with the different connectors, there was a connector where i could connect to the fuel rail after the line, and there was a connector that had the quick disconnect on it that i placed in between the back fuel like and the fuel filter

From my understanding i should have 35 to 40 psi thru out the whole system doesn't matter where it is
 

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No, you should have 40psi at the fuel rail, after the regulator.

The fpr sets that.

The pressure increases toward the pump.

8psi across a filter is not good.
 
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