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Discussion Starter #321
A major rework job like this is always full of problems. :)

Kudos to MM for doing all this awesome work.


I did want to ask, tho; Why did they remove all the brackets and all you had to replace; was it Racecar, or different hood, etc? (hood support brackets weigh, what, 10 ounces, total? :) )

Your front end resto is way better than original, and should be stiffer than stock, but why did they remove it?

If I'm being nosy, I'm sorry; but you had to do a lot of work there that made me wonder "why?"

If you don't want to get into it I understand. :)


I can't wait to see pix of it on the track. :)
I think they removed all of the brackets because they modified the original K member to move the SC engine back about 3 inches. I have that K member if you want to come and get it.

Originally they wanted to remove as much weight as possible and I think they decided that they didn't need that area to be protected. They had also cut the core support and leaned the radiator forward which is why I removed my old core support and used it instead.

I can't wait to drive it on the track too. :D
 

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Probably a stupid question, but that K member wont fit a 96 4.6, will it?

Lazarus could use one, lol.

(Engine mount broke, throttle stuck, broke 3 out of 4 wheels, a few years ago.)
 

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Discussion Starter #323
Probably a stupid question, but that K member wont fit a 96 4.6, will it?

Lazarus could use one, lol.

(Engine mount broke, throttle stuck, broke 3 out of 4 wheels, a few years ago.)
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but they are all the same from 89-97. This one does have the mounts relocated (welded) a couple of inches farther back so it may not be of use to you. Pickup only. :wink2:
 

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No, that won't do it for me; exhaust is close.

I understand "pickup only, lol; that's a heavy piece, and my Mail Lady would just shoot me rather than deliver, lol.
 

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FYI, there are 2 different front subframes, 89-92 and 93+. The difference is the location of the motor mount pads are 1” further apart on the newer one to accommodate the wider 4.6 engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #326
More progress. I had to replace the lower distributor cap. I also adjusted the timing just a touch (retarding it helps a bit) and it will run a bit smoother but there is still plenty of pops which seems to me that the timing is still obviously off. I need the wife or someone to help me adjust it.

I also got the seats installed. See pics.
 

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Crap. I bet that's your popping; it's getting unmetered air. :(


Is that manifold aluminum or plastic?

If it's aluminum, it'll have to be welded; if it's plastic, I'd remove the bolt, make a slightly larger 'shelf' on the runner side, epoxy it back together, and add a 1/8" shim of steel that mounts under the nut, and will catch on the edge of the lip you made, holding it down with the mounting nut.

I hope it's aluminum. :)
 

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Oops! Time to find someone with a TIG welder.
 

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Interesting to see all the good progress on this. Pretty much the most exciting thing happening here these days. :)

One of these days, I'll have to drive down to see this thing in action.... :cool:
 

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I need to throw a party again; I have a huge area near the lake we can camp at, and the hotels are cheap.

I'm still looking for a Cargo 747, lol. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Crap. I bet that's your popping; it's getting unmetered air. :(


Is that manifold aluminum or plastic?

If it's aluminum, it'll have to be welded; if it's plastic, I'd remove the bolt, make a slightly larger 'shelf' on the runner side, epoxy it back together, and add a 1/8" shim of steel that mounts under the nut, and will catch on the edge of the lip you made, holding it down with the mounting nut.

I hope it's aluminum. :)
It's an aluminum intake (Trick Flow Street Heat). Honestly, I've been looking for a reason to switch to a higher RPM intake so I guess this is my opportunity. I just have to verify that the Track Heat upper will bolt to my lower. Historically it was supposed to but I've got a message out to Trick Flow and Summit.
 

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Breakage is always the best time to upgrade; and someone will buy and fix that one, lowering the upgrade cost. :)

I have to ask, tho: I thought the one you have is best for "Overall performance" while the "Track Heat" one was for drag racing; I'd love to hear your perspective.

I know "sheet metal" intakes are XXXXRPM, +-500rpm massive power, with extreme peakage; I'm not at all informed about the trick flow ones.

And I know only really old 5.0 engines; my buddys 93 mustang is the latest one I've dealt with; and his carbed '85 eats it alive. (Even with me driving)

Of course, there's probably over 1000lbs between those cars, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #334
Breakage is always the best time to upgrade; and someone will buy and fix that one, lowering the upgrade cost. :)

I have to ask, tho: I thought the one you have is best for "Overall performance" while the "Track Heat" one was for drag racing; I'd love to hear your perspective.

I know "sheet metal" intakes are XXXXRPM, +-500rpm massive power, with extreme peakage; I'm not at all informed about the trick flow ones.

And I know only really old 5.0 engines; my buddys 93 mustang is the latest one I've dealt with; and his carbed '85 eats it alive. (Even with me driving)

Of course, there's probably over 1000lbs between those cars, lol.
Well, in this case I'm thinking of addressing a unique problem. The Street Heat intake is good for idle to 5500 rpm and the Track Heat is good for 1500 to 6500 rpm. Because of the amount of torque the engine puts out, it can be a little tough to control with the street intake. By getting a bit more horsepower in the upper rpm range and losing just a slight bit of torque I think it will balance the car a bit more. At least that's the theory.

Yeah, I'll try to sell the old one but I doubt there are a lot of takers at this point. We'll see. I just have to verify that I can use my existing lower intake.
 

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Breakage is always the best time to upgrade; and someone will buy and fix that one, lowering the upgrade cost. <img src="http://forums.tccoa.com/images/smilies/vb2_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I have to ask, tho: I thought the one you have is best for "Overall performance" while the "Track Heat" one was for drag racing; I'd love to hear your perspective.

I know "sheet metal" intakes are XXXXRPM, +-500rpm massive power, with extreme peakage; I'm not at all informed about the trick flow ones.

And I know only really old 5.0 engines; my buddys 93 mustang is the latest one I've dealt with; and his carbed '85 eats it alive. (Even with me driving)

Of course, there's probably over 1000lbs between those cars, lol.
Well, in this case I'm thinking of addressing a unique problem. The Street Heat intake is good for idle to 5500 rpm and the Track Heat is good for 1500 to 6500 rpm. Because of the amount of torque the engine puts out, it can be a little tough to control with the street intake. By getting a bit more horsepower in the upper rpm range and losing just a slight bit of torque I think it will balance the car a bit more. At least that's the theory.

Yeah, I'll try to sell the old one but I doubt there are a lot of takers at this point. We'll see. I just have to verify that I can use my existing lower intake.
That's a big change in operating RPM. Is your Cam somewhere in the middle? I'd be afraid to run that much intake of your Cam operates to a 5500 peak RPM. If you're closer to 6000 with the Cam, you might be on the right track. That being said; I'd think you're in the higher part of the operating RPM range, so if your Cam is in between, lean to the higher RPM intake.

It's always something, isn't it.
 

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I don't think the cam is the controlling factor there; runner length is the big deal.

A cam does have input to that, but the airflow resonance characteristics, helmholts port stuffing, is the big deal.

You want the reflected shock wave thru the intake from the valve closing to return just as the valve is opening, as you can stuff 2x+ the amount of charge into the cylinder, if those waves are correct.

That's why that intake is so pricey. :)

For every cam change, the 'tuned intake' wave changes, and gets bigger; but that doesn't really change the timing of the wave.

More cam == more better, but you eventually end up with an engine that makes power at 7000rpm, but nowhere else.

And your auto tranny does not want to see 7k. Without mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
I had a buddy of mine come over that has a lot of experience and knowledge with Windsor engines and he listened to my "pop" sound and determined it was probably coming from a leak in the headers that's igniting air that's getting sucked in and then burning inside the exhaust. I agreed since I am pretty sure that I have a hole larger than a pin hole in one of the primaries that I created by accident and didn't think would be a problem. Now I just need to remove the passenger side header, grind down the surface a bit and weld the hole shut. After that I should be in business to deal with the next dumbass mistake I make.
 

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After that I should be in business to deal with the next dumbass mistake I make.
That sounds a lot like My process. :)

I'm happy you found it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #339
That sounds a lot like My process. :)

I'm happy you found it. :D
As soon as my buddy said that he thought it was the exhaust "burning" unmetered air/fuel I knew what was up. The sound was coming out of the tail pipe but the engine was running pretty smooth. Better this problem than something more serious.
 

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Discussion Starter #340
OK, after a week and a half of bullshit and no resolution, I'm almost back to square one. My latest stupid is replacing the throttle body elbow because I was too clever by half. Measure twice, cut onc......just start drilling. Anyway, I figured I managed to create a big vacuum leak. That wasn't it either but that potential future problem from stupid is now fixed.

Anyhoo.....while attempting to start the car again, I forgot to connect the brake booster and fuel pressure vacuum hoses. The car started, ran smoothly and promptly died. I figured I flooded it and check the plugs to verify after it wouldn't start. Gave up on it that night but figured I had it fixed. Next day, still wouldn't start. I ended up wiggling the ignition control module plugs/wires and it started right up but it was back to the random *SNAP* and *POP* and *CRACK*.

I think I have a wiring issue in the ignition control wiring. I rerouted it into the passenger compartment and there is some of the wires that are folded back over themselves as a result. Some of the tires have a foil like wrap on them too. Is there a chance that I'm creating some sort of interference that's causing it to randomly fire?
 
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