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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I read a post a while ago about this, and I can't find it. I remember something about making sure the UCA is in the fully upright, full load position before torqueing it to the the proper specs, not sure what the torque is either. Can anyone help with a link to this post or refresh my memory, as I am installing new UCA's and end links while installing new lowering springs(Eibach Pro kit). I know that we encourage reading older posts to find this info, and i did, but couldn't find it.
Thanks!
PS: If this isn't really necessary, then I apologize, Just wanna do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Wow, 43 looks, and no replies, I'm a little surprised. oh well.:(
 

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For some reason around 50 or 60 ft lbs comes to mind for the UCA nuts. Need to be tightened with the suspension loaded. 18mm nuts.
 

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uppers?

Hello

I have removed & changed my arms on my car many times.

I have never properly torqued them.:crazy:

But my car is not a street car, I don't do the normal stuff:zdevil:

But I can say is is best to tighten when the car is under full weight.:xpsmile:
I generally jack that corner up when tightening(off the stand)

:wavey:
 

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Hello

I have removed & changed my arms on my car many times.

I have never properly torqued them.:crazy:

But my car is not a street car, I don't do the normal stuff:zdevil:

But I can say is is best to tighten when the car is under full weight.:xpsmile:
I generally jack that corner up when tightening(off the stand)

:wavey:
The proper torqe spec for the UCA nuts is 65-88 FT lbs .. I was close with 60.

The only time I use a torque wrench is when I am doing suspension .. or building an engine.
 

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I read a post a while ago about this, and I can't find it. I remember something about making sure the UCA is in the fully upright, full load position before torqueing it to the the proper specs...

So does anyone know what the consequences are of not doing this? The reason I ask is that I recently replaced mine, but I cannot remember if they were in the "full and upright position" when I torqued the nuts & bolts. Cripes, I hear noises from them (like ungreased rubber bushings or something) when going up & down the driveway and over bumps slowly. Hmmm, I may have to re-tighten them correctly when I install my Eibachs and LCAs this next week...

Eh, live & learn...


Davy
 

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So does anyone know what the consequences are of not doing this? The reason I ask is that I recently replaced mine, but I cannot remember if they were in the "full and upright position" when I torqued the nuts & bolts. Cripes, I hear noises from them (like ungreased rubber bushings or something) when going up & down the driveway and over bumps slowly. Hmmm, I may have to re-tighten them correctly when I install my Eibachs and LCAs this next week...

Eh, live & learn...


Davy
Sounds like your bushings are binding up. This can also lead to premature failure.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Best way to do this is to jack up the car from the LCA until the weight comes off your jack stand(s)... then torque them down.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right on!

Cool, thanks you guys! That's about what I figured, but I wanted to be sure before I install my new ones along with the swaybar end-links (all MOOG). They came with self tapping grease fittings and the ball joint is already greased, so do I have to add more grease after installling them?
 

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I don't think you have to add grease... but it's one of those, "why not?"
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Grease

I hear ya. I don't have my own grease gun, but I can just take it in for an oil change and have it done then. I know, you're thinking "he's gonna install new suspesion parts himself, but can't change the oil himself?". Of course I can, but If I'm gonna get the lube job, might as well have them change the oil while its there.
 

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The Moog are Pre-greased ... from my experience, if you add more grease, it will be too much and make a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The Moog are Pre-greased ... from my experience, if you add more grease, it will be too much and make a mess.
Thanks for the heads up! They did look pretty good to go. From what i've read, MOOG are as good as you can get aside from Factory, and as I'm just replacing old worn parts while I'm in there, not lookin to road race it, just lowering it with the Eibach Pro Kit. I've been through this before, when I lowered my other Bird. Installed the springs only, with worn ball joints, and end links. Had to pull it all apart later to finish the job right. Now, on my new Bird, i saw the worn ball joints, worn end links, so I bought all new parts, to replace while installing the springs.
Why not take care of it now while it's gonna be all apart anyway.
 

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I read a post a while ago about this, and I can't find it. I remember something about making sure the UCA is in the fully upright, full load position before torqueing it to the the proper specs, not sure what the torque is either. Can anyone help with a link to this post or refresh my memory, as I am installing new UCA's and end links while installing new lowering springs(Eibach Pro kit). I know that we encourage reading older posts to find this info, and i did, but couldn't find it.
Thanks!
PS: If this isn't really necessary, then I apologize, Just wanna do it right.
I instrall bolts / nuts / and tabs, then set her down on her wheels, then torque to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Eibach Springs

I got it done. UCA's installed properly, torqued with full weight on them, Eibach Springs installed. A pain in the ass job, 2 days work by myself, but well worth the money I saved compared to having a shop do it. A word to the wise, be very careful doing this on an inclined driveway!(Actually I don't recommend it unless you really chock the front tires). I've done this before on another car no problem, but this time I almost had the car roll back off the jack stand with the rear wheel off. You're fine as long as the other rear tire is on the ground, I jacked it up too high and raised both tires temporarily, causing it to start creeping back. Literally had to hold the jack, put a wrench under it's wheel to stop the rolling. Luckily I was able to throw in a 2nd jack stand(on the right) in not the best possible place obviously, also put the wheel under the frame just in case, and chocked the front tires with my old UCA's, finally got the jack out from under and fixed the situation. Pretty scary as you can see in the pic, so live & learn. Anyway, after a big 'PHEW' I finished the job, which was very satisfying, got it done, looks great!
Thanks again for all the info!



 

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your lucky you didn't hurt yourself next time go to autozone and buy a $6 set of plastic wedge wheel chocks. Now hammer that body seam back. The first jack stand (left) was in a good location but the car should have been supported on both sides not just one. Also it would have given more support turned 90 degrees.
 

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good info here so next time i do this job i don't make the mistakes i made last time on the front end, specifically, torqueing the uca bolts down with the car off the ground
 

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The consequences of not tightening the suspension bolts at joints with the suspension loaded (car weight on the wheels) is suspension bushing wind-up. The bushings are bonded such that they can't rotate since they are molded to the arms. You preload them when the bolts are torqued with the arms in the wrong position. You will affect your ride height and assuming you torqued the bolts with the arms hanging down, they will act like little "extra" springs and cause your suspension to be very "floaty"over any road imperfections.
 

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so if you suspect that your uca bolts have been improperly tightened is it ok to loosen them with the car sitting level on the wheels and then tighten them back down? will this fix any binding that may be present?
 
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