TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Sheepish
Joined
·
4,085 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Its easy as pie to drop the pumpkin by yourself, but you'll definately need a friend to get it back in...

Following along Dan U's original article, jack up the back end and make sure you've got 8-10 inches between the brakes and the ground once the tires are off.

Start by unbolting and removing the catback exhaust, get it out of your way. Its a 9/16s or a 14-15mm, can't remember off the top of my head.

Then its time for the real work. Put the tranny in neutral and rotate the DS until you can get to 2 of the bolts easily. Put the tranny back in park and yank those two bolts (12mm 12 point bolts). Put it back in neutral and rotate the DS around to repeat the process on the other two bolts.

Now comes the fun. Go to one of the rear knuckles and undo the upper control arm bolt, tie the UCA out of your way and grab the knuckle and pull outward kinda gently. Crawl under the car and use a screwdriver to coax the half shafts out of the pumpkin, I prefer the screwdriver as opposed to just pulling on the half shaft. You'll get it most of the way out, but not all the way unless you're special or something. Repeat process for other half shaft. The knuckle bolts are I believe 21mm and 18mm. An 18mm bolt head with a 21mm nut, but a 13/16s inch wrench will get the 21mm nuts off.

Then undo the two bolts that link the knuckle to the lower control arm in the rear, and grab hold of the knuckle and pull out enough to get the stub shaft completely out of the pumpkin, guide the stub shaft behind the pumpkin (rearward of the pumpkin) and slip the bolts back in to hold the knuckle in its normal spot. Repeat for other side, and tie your half shafts up so they're not sitting on the LCA.

Place a jack under the pumpkin and jack it up to the pumpkin and keep the pumpkin pinned in its area. Unbolt all 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin in (leaving the bracket attached to the rear cover. Then slowely lower the jack and ta da, the pumpkin it out of the car. The 4 lower nuts that hold the pumpkin through the bushings and through the rear bracket at 21mm (13/16s) on bottom and 15mm on top. I unbolted the rear bracket from the frame, or you can just unbolt the pumpkin from the rear bracket using the same 21mm (13/16s).

Installing has a few differences though, and will require a friend for help. Wrestle the pumpkin back up into its mountings and bolt it in its rightful spot, how you achieve this is up to you. Next you'll reverse the process for the DS bolt removal, but you're going to have a challenge of getting the bolts lined up in the flange, but when you do, just get it bolted on. Time for the friend. One of you get under the car where you can reach the half shafts easily. One of you will go to the knuckle, unbolt it completely again and pull it out away from the car, pulling the half shaft with it long enough to have the friend guide it back into the pumpkin. Reinstall the LCA bolts and hinge the knuckle towards the pumpkin while you rotate the half shaft enough to get the splines to engage easy other fully. Then back off the knuckle, reinstall the UCA to the knuckle and count this side as finished (after all bolts are torqued to specs). Repeat for other side.

Make sure that everything is button'd properly and that the differential has the sufficient fluid. Reverse all of the above set of tips.

Changing the speedo gear can be a bit of a vent. Snag a 10mm socket, a 10" extension, and a swivel joint. Just look up at the transmission tailshaft and you'll see the VSS sticking out at a downward angle. Undo the single 10mm bolt holding it in, swing it down and change the speedo gear, and pop that bad boy back in place.
 

·
MaleWhore
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
i know this thread is old but do u happen to have any pics of the removal/installation?
 

·
Automatic Weapon
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
I have had to take my diff out and put it back in by myself many times. I normally put the rear of the car on jack stands and then support the diff with a floor jack. You can lower it with the jack as well as put it back up with the jack. Get a couple nuts started and you're home free.

It is easier with two people though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
ive done it many times myself but im spoiled, i used a lift, and a tranny jack to jack the pumpkin up to the car, i dont even take my catback off anymore to get the pumpkin out, but its smarter to take it off like AJ mentioned
 

·
Automatic Weapon
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
I know, right?! Just pry the cat-back far enough over so the pumpkin clears it and you're good to go!


We shouldn't be teaching newbies our bad habits! :D
 

·
MaleWhore
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
no need to remove my exhaust...it ends right before the pumpkin
 

·
Automatic Weapon
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
Well, the pizza and wings sound good, but I am living at school right now and have no tools, no place to wrork, and no jack/jackstands. Sorry man, there are a few in Charlotte that can hook you up though. :D

(I'm currently in Greenville, SC)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,208 Posts

·
3rd Gear Chirper
Joined
·
2,399 Posts
No need to remove both halfshafts either. Just undo one side, and slide it over and off the other side. Nice write up! :thumbsup:
 

·
Sheepish
Joined
·
4,085 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I know you can just pop one of the halfshafts, but when I tried that method I wasn't comfortable with the bind it wanted to put on the CV joints of the over halfshaft. I also feel it makes the actual lowering/raising of the pumpkin easier when you can take it straight up or down without having to tilt it over and insert a stub shaft then jack it up while sorta rolling it. I seriously doubt either method is faster than the other, but to each their own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
AverageJoe said:
Yeah, I know you can just pop one of the halfshafts, but when I tried that method I wasn't comfortable with the bind it wanted to put on the CV joints of the over halfshaft. I also feel it makes the actual lowering/raising of the pumpkin easier when you can take it straight up or down without having to tilt it over and insert a stub shaft then jack it up while sorta rolling it. I seriously doubt either method is faster than the other, but to each their own.

ditto i did it with a differential jack at work on a lift and if i did it again id just take off the 36mm nut and remove the half shafts to make it hella easyer, there easy in and easy out, instead of fighting with space
 

·
MaleWhore
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
any one have the torque specs for all the nuts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
I like pulling both halfshafts back out of the way. It's really easy to do (3 bolts), and then you can keep the pumpkin level so you don't dump gear lube out of the halfshaft holes in the case. Here's a couple pics I snapped during my install of the 4.10's.





Just my .02

Mike
 

·
MaleWhore
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
thats really helpfull...never really looked back there to see how things work....should disk brakes be any harder than drums?
 

·
Geek w/Gearhead Complex
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
easier. move the caliper off and hang it somewhere above -- no worries on bustin your brakeline.
 

·
MaleWhore
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
sorry about all the questions...but since i might be down there this weeked...what else is a good idea to look at or change...any bushings or whatever? what do i need to buy so i have everything with me when i start.
 

·
MAMN12 Posse Member
Joined
·
2,903 Posts
One thing I see you're missing in the article. For us ABS guys, there's 1 bolt on each side that needs to come out that's right in front of the halfshafts. Easy to see, they're attached to some long cables...or wires or something of the such.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top