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Would this be ok? Im trying to get rid of wires so i was thinking that I could put the amp inside the box. Its a small amp only a jensen 300w and its running 2 10" kenwoods and its a sealed box.

So can I put the amp inside the box? Will it affect the sound or anything?
 

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I dunno about changing the sound in any way, but that'll probably kill your amp from all that constant pressure. Not imediately but in due time.
 

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The pressure won't affect it. You're talking about a max change of no more than a few PSI. The problem will be heat. If the box is sealed and you run it for a long time, the amp will eventually heat up the air in the box to the point where it is no longer cooling the amp. Even if your box is ported, there's not a huge air exchange and the amp will eventually heat soak and go into thermal shutdown. Plus, this hot air will be what's cooling the voice of your sub so your bass will start to get muddy and sound like crap. Overall, this is just a bad idea.
 

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Pressure was the wrong word. Basically what i was trying to say is that the amp will be REALLY close to a huge voice coil and, well, im not sure if it'll have any affects but it just doesn't sound right lol.
 

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Sir William, you seem to do nice enclosures. what have you done for subs? i made an enclosure for a 10" JBL (gt1041d) that simply used the spare tire location. it was total guesswork, eyeballing the location in comparison to the suggested box but it came out really nice and clean. didnt want to get too sick with the stereo though since it does make the occasional trip to ned. too bad they dont make that speaker anymore, its good for people worried about weight- heavy with dual mags but lighter than 2 speakers. im not at my computer so maybe i'll post some pics later...
as for mounting, back of the backseat is probably the best- harder to steal and away from the speaker.
Dave
 

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Right now, I've got next to nothing sub wise. I had a BIIIG dual bandpass box with a 12 in it, but it took up way too much space. I'm shopping now for something else, but I'm not sure what I'm gonna put in yet. Probably either a killer 12 or a pair of 10's. Just depends on what I can find when I have the budget for it.
 

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Amp in Sub Box

There are plenty of home theatre subs with built in amps, but I don't think anyone makes them for cars. You can buy sub amps from Adire Audio or Madisound for purty cheap, but they are 110 - 120 VAC. They are designed for in-box mounting but powering them is a car would be a problem.
:(
 

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That's not quite true bigbird. While there are powered subs, most, if not all I've seen have exposed heatsinks on the back. They're not IN the box, they're just mounted to/surrounded by the box. Quite a different story.

Plus, in a home environment, it is extremely unlikely that they would ever be subjected to ambient temps above 85 degrees farenheit. While in the trunk of a car, ambient in a trunk could easily be 40 degrees or better above that in the summer.
 

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Sir William said:
That's not quite true bigbird. While there are powered subs, most, if not all I've seen have exposed heatsinks on the back. They're not IN the box, they're just mounted to/surrounded by the box. Quite a different story.

Plus, in a home environment, it is extremely unlikely that they would ever be subjected to ambient temps above 85 degrees farenheit. While in the trunk of a car, ambient in a trunk could easily be 40 degrees or better above that in the summer.

Well yeah! Technically that's true.

I've built several Subwoofer systems for home stereo using the Keiga Subwoofer Amps from Madisound. The electronics are mounted in the box with the heatsinks exposed. Sold the last pair I built to a University Music Professor for his elaborate home system for $1,600.00 Canadian dollars.

I have never seen that kind of Power Amp for car use, although it would be neat. Imagine the space savings and simplicity.
 

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Why don't you cut into the box and mount it flush with the box.
put your amp here:
V
.---_---.
l O O l
---------

It should work fine. You could get some terminals for wiring, or just run the wires in, you'd have to drill holes, but you already cut it so it shouldn't be hard, and if you want to remove it, you just unscrew the wires. It should work out fine. It's also, probably, the best idea for space saving. It'd look better than mounting it on top.
 
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