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Discussion Starter #1
Hi:
I've finally gotten around to installing the killswitch on my "track car" for the 24 Hours of Lemons. The ignition switch has been detached from the key so I have easy access to the wires behind it.

Q: Which wire to I attach the switch on so that disconnecting it will kill the power to the ignition coil?


Here's what I found so far:
1) The best example I found was from this car alarm website. Two wires are listed as Ignition 1 and Ignition 2
red/light-green
black/light-green wires
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1994-1995/Ford/Thunderbird/1804.html

2) Autozone.com's wiring diagram shows black/light-green being connected to the wiper motor and red/light-green being connected to the alternator (they call it the "generator".)



This means the red/light-green is the wire I want to have the kill-switch interrupt, right?


NOTE: I will also appropriately connect the kill switch to disconnect the battery (2 GA wire) and shunt any stray voltage from the alternator through a resistor to ground (12gauge wire, more than enough for the 11W the resistor is rated to discharge).

Thanks in advance for your help.
Regards,
-g
 

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More importantly, will the car die if the line is interrupted?
Thanks,
-g
Its only activated when you turn your key to the START position .. it goes directly to the starter, and you only use that for one second when you start the car, after that its disabled anyways.

You need to kill a circuit on the RUN position. The Red / Light green might work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That would be the Red / Light green wiring ... all goes to the #3 Fuse. The diagram above is missing the part where it branches off before going to the Alternator.

Thanks, Dan.
Since the killswitch is in the cabin, I was hoping to find the wire in the cabin that I could interrupt. I'll try with the red/lt-green wire. If not, I'll reconnect that wire and cut it right at the alternator (where I know it should cause the car to die).

As for the suggestion about a fuel cut. While the Lemons rules don't give a specific guideline other than the car must die when running at 3000 RPM, anecdotal comments on their forum say that the engine must die within 3 sec of the switch being flipped in order to pass tech inspection.

I have a fuel cut in the car now (rewired the internal switch to the main switch panel) and I'm 99% sure that it takes longer than 3 sec for the car to sputter and die.


-g


-g
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
As SCTbird94 commented and I initially thought, interrupting the red/lt-green wire will kill the power to the ignition coil. I should have the killswitch installed shortly and will be one step closer to racing in Oct!
-g
 

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On my 95 4.6 it will think its being stolen if change battety out , or disconnect the battery .
Touch your hood latch while in drivers seat . About inch or two to the right , and about same going back atcha, you'll find a small button that should bypass the system , unless you again disconnect battery or get yourself a remote.
Hold key in on position, while pushing the little button down for 3 to 5 seconds and turn it over . I know I have seen the switch/ button in a few Thunderbirds I've seen . You cant see it unless you look underneath .
 

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As SCTbird94 commented and I initially thought, interrupting the red/lt-green wire will kill the power to the ignition coil. I should have the killswitch installed shortly and will be one step closer to racing in Oct!
-g
There's a thread somewhere where Martigan went thru this same thing last year.

I'd want ignition kill AND Fuel kill, just to keep from feeding any possible flames.
 
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