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HOW TO:
Figured I'd show a nice way to refinish the quarter glass molding and window channel moldings, with a very slight textured finish, flexible yet still cures solid , abrasion resistant for the most part fills in any imperfections ,
MUST mask all paint very very delicately.
Only tested with dupli color liner , it has the least texture once applied

Passenger side comparing to the dull and scuffed trim on driver side .

Will be doing this to all the channeling on roof rear quarter and windshield trim as well.
Ends up being quite the fix and without any real idea if being Not OEM finish.

Any bit over spray comes off easily with over cleaner "yes oven cleaner " reason being oven cleaner reacts to any
Non clear coated paint or sprayed material as long as it hasn't cured with a clear coat it will remove paint or textures.
Also P thinner , or a polishing wheel works . I would know I recondition paint and detail by trade.

This may be a answer for so many people dying to find a way to repair the front and rear Window upper and lower reveal trim.That is impossible to find in any decent shape.
I did the same to my 91 5.0 and all the reveal moldings looked new again .
 

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Looks good. :)

I did the quarter windows a few years back with Plastic Dip, came out alright but looks like crap now. I've worked some of it off, might try something to try to bring back the original finish once it's all off.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks good. <img src="http://forums.tccoa.com/images/smilies/vb2_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I did the quarter windows a few years back with Plastic Dip, came out alright but looks like crap now. I've worked some of it off, might try something to try to bring back the original finish once it's all off.

Joe
This is a better permanent way , in the sense it looks refreshed it self levels out any gouged areas and it grabs in and adheres, it has a sheen and is paintable. I have 3 types duli color gives the smooth to semi texture appearance.
Masking off paint is the Bit** part of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks good. <img src="http://forums.tccoa.com/images/smilies/vb2_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I did the quarter windows a few years back with Plastic Dip, came out alright but looks like crap now. I've worked some of it off, might try something to try to bring back the original finish once it's all off.

Joe
Not that it matters but it also extends out the grained look of the interior panels some.
If finger nail tested it it stays rock solid.
Nothing changed on my 91 reveal moldings with this method, and fixing reveal moldings is a huge plus , the only thing you loose is the curved edge on the reveal trim that seals tight against glass . There is no method to make that curve once the material flakes away. I'm considering testing some aftermarket thin gasket material and shape something up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks good. <img src="http://forums.tccoa.com/images/smilies/vb2_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I did the quarter windows a few years back with Plastic Dip, came out alright but looks like crap now. I've worked some of it off, might try something to try to bring back the original finish once it's all off.

Joe
I'm planning on attempting a very in depth por - 15 and black shell spray on unibody .Once I get to access to a hoist , And even somehow finding a way in rocker valleys.
I had a genius idea to section out a long thin area of the rockers from under where it wouldn't be visible from the side of car utilizing this too find a way to get inside tear out foam and then once coated , cover them with a louver type mesh material and repaint entire car once done .
It would be like a fine mesh grating that would allow any water's ans such to drain right out. Only effective way would be to entirely coat the inner rockers 95% with the por 15 or rust bullet . May be over thinking and invasive but I am destined to find a method to prove I can show how too save rockers on these cars forever
 

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I'm planning on attempting a very in depth por - 15 and black shell spray on unibody .Once I get to access to a hoist , And even somehow finding a way in rocker valleys.
I had a genius idea to section out a long thin area of the rockers from under where it wouldn't be visible from the side of car utilizing this too find a way to get inside tear out foam and then once coated , cover them with a louver type mesh material and repaint entire car once done .
It would be like a fine mesh grating that would allow any water's ans such to drain right out. Only effective way would be to entirely coat the inner rockers 95% with the por 15 or rust bullet . May be over thinking and invasive but I am destined to find a method to prove I can show how too save rockers on these cars forever

I’ve used POR-15 and similar products before and the performance of the products need two things : 1) the area coated area needs to be a little rusty to bond or else it will just gradually peel off of clean metal. 2) You need to prep prep prep, which is easier said than done inside the rockers. Ziebart isn’t far off from this process, and I can tell you every car with Ziebart plugs are the biggest rust buckets on the road. The coatings flake and peel and trap moisture underneath, same thing will eventually happen to POR, Rust Bullet, rust encapsulator etc if not prepped to the nines.

Drainage is THE problem with the rockers, and while improved drainage might be a good idea selectively in places, you need to be smart with it. I wouldn’t cut a long slot running them the length of the rocker. First of all the rockers are structural, second once you cut the metal the edges will be bare naked steel with zero galvanization or factory E-coat, and will most assuredly rust from the inside out. Also while the foam is a terrible nuisance in a few spots in this chassis, it really isn’t the problem inside the rockers, the area that rusts first in front of the rear wheel is 8-10 inches away from where the expanding foam ends. The foam only seems to keep water from sloshing up to the front or back, possibly leading to a pooling effect, but once again, that’s inadequate drainage at fault. 89-92 didn’t use any foam inside the rockers, and of the many rusted out MNs I’ve seen, those are the ones where the rockers tend to be completely gone, stem to stern, 93-97s with the foam are usually more contained to the very ends (granted the early also weren’t galvanized).
 
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