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Chief of Warranty Police
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Since I bought my Cougar, I never had a key to lock/unlock the doors from the outside; I always had to use the keypad.

A while back, when I ordered a new ignition lock and cylinder, naturally I got a new key. I notice that only the first half inch or so from the tip of the key is cut, while the rest is blank.

Would I be correct in assuming that this is how one Ford key is cut for use in more than one lock - by making the individual cut sequences in different spots along the length of the key?



If this is true, it should be possible to get this key cut for use in my doors as well, yes?
 

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You are correct. That style of key has 10 separate cuts. Positions 1 through 4, and 6, are for the ignition tumbler, and 5 as well as 7 - 10 do the doors.

So if you provided an old key for them to measure, or the key code for the vehicle, they could have ordered you the correct ignition tumbler that would allow your old door code to be cut in to the new key. There are 5 choices for the igntion cylinder, depending on your original key code. If they didn't have the code, you have a 20% chance of being able to do it. ;)


cheers
Ed N.
 

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Hi Ed,
Last week I ordered new ignition lock and cylinder from my local ford dealer. And ive been there 3 times now and they don’t have a clue on how to cut a damn key to math my doors. They tried and every time it doesn’t work at all. Worst of all, at first they tried with a 8 cuts. I'm impressed.
This is in Moncton, NB.
 

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Chief of Warranty Police
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Ed!
 

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I can cut by VIN.
 

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So Ed,

Does this mean I have a 20 percent chance of starting your car with my key?



fast Ed N said:
You are correct. That style of key has 10 separate cuts. Positions 1 through 4, and 6, are for the ignition tumbler, and 5 as well as 7 - 10 do the doors.

So if you provided an old key for them to measure, or the key code for the vehicle, they could have ordered you the correct ignition tumbler that would allow your old door code to be cut in to the new key. There are 5 choices for the igntion cylinder, depending on your original key code. If they didn't have the code, you have a 20% chance of being able to do it. ;)


cheers
Ed N.
 

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C38 said:
Hi Ed,
Last week I ordered new ignition lock and cylinder from my local ford dealer. And ive been there 3 times now and they don’t have a clue on how to cut a damn key to math my doors. They tried and every time it doesn’t work at all. Worst of all, at first they tried with a 8 cuts. I'm impressed.
This is in Moncton, NB.

There are instructions in the package with the new ignition cylinder, as well as on the computer parts catalogue. I'd suggest trying another dealer ...


cheers
Ed N.
 

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Switch

What did the switch cost you?
 

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When I went to get an ignition cylinder for my '95 Mark VIII, it ended up being cheaper to buy the 'set' (door and ignition cyl.) than just getting the ign, and no fuss with matching them either :)
 

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i just ran into a similar problem and was wondering if you guys could help me out, my igintion just went out, i can start the car, but i cant shut it off, the key just turns back and forth with no resistance, and if i try to put the car in gear it will die.
now, using the information on this post i pulled out the ignition key tumbler? the part that the key turns, now i was wondering, what should i be looking for, i noticed what was looking like a broken piece of plastic in there, but it got dark outside and i had to call it a nigth.
what parts do i need to order?
im not exactly car savy, but i aint no dummy, it just takes me 3 hours to do something that you guys can do blindfolded.
hope you guys can help me out, thank you very much
//Jesper
 

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95xbird said:
I can cut by VIN.
not on a 1990 , 1996.5 + you can and my 1996 f150 isnt recorded either
 

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ok, i pulled the switch out from the bottom and tried just moving that silver lever around, now i can start, idle and shut off the car just using that switch and not a key, now my question is how is the arm mechanism supposed to work? it dosnt seem to move the switch back and forward like it should, just forward.
is the switch supposed to be springloaded?
 

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humbugy said:
i can start the car, but i cant shut it off, the key just turns back and forth with no resistance, and if i try to put the car in gear it will die.
now, using the information on this post i pulled out the ignition key tumbler? the part that the key turns, now i was wondering, what should i be looking for, i noticed what was looking like a broken piece of plastic in there, but it got dark outside and i had to call it a nigth.

//Jesper
Humbugy. This is a common problem. Try a search on the topic.
A small rack and pinion set up that connects the motion of rotating the key to sliding an ignition switch often breaks.
 

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If its that important you can have a locksmith cut one for you but it aint cheap.
 

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All you have to do is provide the old key and the new key that came with the new switch to any competent lock smith and he will cut one side with the new and one side with the old. He put a notch on my key so I can tell at a glance or by feel which side has to be up to go in the locks.

Cost me $2.00 plus what ever the switch was at Auto Zone.
 

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it is indeed the pin between the two said arms, however i lack the tools to pull of my steering wheel to replace it, its kinda of annoying really, that teeny weeny pin screwed everything up....
 
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