TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
On my 1991 Cougar XR7 (5.0) my negative battery cable is broken and won't tighten down. Ford doesn't offer the part anymore. The cable has a small wire coming out of it that attaches to sheet metal near the radiator and a separate wire from there goes down to what looks like a fuse holder.
How necessary is that separate wire? If I buy a replacement cable that doesn't have the wire, what might go wrong?
Also, it's hard to see where the other end of the cable is attached. Probably on the block somewhere. Is it easy to get to?

Thanks, Larry
 

·
̇
Joined
·
3,701 Posts
Battery Grounds

Larry Whitaker said:
On my 1991 Cougar XR7 (5.0) my negative battery cable is broken and won't tighten down.
If I buy a replacement cable that doesn't have the wire, what might go wrong?
That small wire should be grounded..That wire is part of the Main Lighting harness..
91-93 [5.0] Thunderbird & Cougar Battery Grounds.jpg

There's a couple ways you could do this..

You could buy a 4' section of 4 AWG cable with ring terminals on both ends..

Then cut off one end of it..Take that end along with the "small wire" and slide them end into a Battery Terminal like this:



Or..My personal favorite..

Upgrade to the BIG 3

This picture here is specific for a 91-93 5.0 Thunderbird or Cougar..


Ford Thunderbird Power and Ground Upgrade.jpg



The Black wires are Grounds (-)
The Red wires are Positive (+)

A lot of the wires depicted in this pic do not currently exist on a stock 5.0 MN12 Thunder or Cougar Electrical System..Therefore they will need to be added..

Leave the stock wire harness in place for the Positive wire that goes from the Alternator to the Starter Relay..
Add the 1/0 AWG from the back of the Alternator to the + side of the Battery..

You need to add a run of 4 AWG from the Engine Block to the - side of the Battery..

You need to add a run of 1/0 AWG from the Alternator Casing Bolt to the - side of the Battery..

You need to add a run of 4 AWG from the Metal right below the top of the Radiator Support to the - side of the Battery..

You need to add a run of 8 AWG from the Metal on the Shock Tower to the - side of the Battery..


I'll just assume you're not going to run an Amplifier..

If you would like to use all 4 AWG instead of the 1/0 AWG it will still work..You just have more resistance..

If you decide to use all 4 AWG...You'll need about 30 ft total..

If you decide to use 1/0 AWG like I have depicted in the Diagram..You need about 12 ft of 1/0 AWG, and 15 ft of 4 AWG..


I would also pick up about 10 feet of 8 AWG..

Don't forget to buy Ring Terminals..



Good Luck!





Rayo...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Ummm, wow. Why not just put a little wire loop on whatever wire is there? If it's not long enough, just solder an extension to the wire, then solder a wire loop?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,581 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Oh, well, I'm not pushing 1000s of watts of audio power, and I see the OP meant that little wire going down out of sight. I'm not sure my Bird has that little wire - I don't remember seeing it; I just have the one from the battery post to the radiator support.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,924 Posts
Larry - every cable I've found has had a short pigtail ending in a yellow butt splice. You could cut that wire free from the old battery cable, strip the end, clean it up good with some sand paper, and crimp it into the new cable pigtail. I'd ALSO grab some heat shrink big enough to just clear the butt splice while not-shrunk, and shrink it afterwards (to avoid any corrosion build up) but that's my paranoia speaking.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thank you everyone for your suggestions. For now the cable is fine. However, next time I have to remove it for any reason, it will be difficult to put back on tightly. At that time (or hopefully before), I'll have to fix it properly. Maybe you can see in the picture, the part that goes on the battery terminal is broken.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,617 Posts
Please don't use bolt on lugs like that one that was pictured they are a temporary fix at best. I have started using marine terminals then soldering eyes on the ends of the cables. The OEM style crimp terminals when soldered work very well for an easy fix. That ground also feeds the ccrm, on supercoupes it causes ignition troubles as well.
Alan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
On a '93 3.8 N/A, would the "Big 3" be the same? Also, if I have recently redone the grounds (stock style setup), is there any benefit to doing the big 3?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,924 Posts
On a '93 3.8 N/A, would the "Big 3" be the same? Also, if I have recently redone the grounds (stock style setup), is there any benefit to doing the big 3?
Yes, but the exact runs would be different.

There's no harm in the Big 3 - the stock design was marginal.

When redoing the front suspension and replacing the battery cables on Ruby, I upgraded to 2ga wiring to the block and the starter relay (the solenoid on the fender well), but have yet to do the alternator and block/chassis grounds. It's on the list, but didn't feel like that much work, especially since she spins over well (when the FastOn(tm) on the starter side solenoid hasn't popped off ... )

RwP
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top