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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, I've currently got a larger than stock MAF, and with the new "stock" computer I am getting a "Engine running LEAN" code showing up on the CEL code.

My question is, with the 80mm MAF and the 70mm TB, if I were to replace just the MAF with the stock one, would that help the "lean" code, or will I have to replace both MAF AND TB?:confused: I really don't have the $300 for a chip burn at the moment.

-Thanks
 

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put the stock one back if no chip or tune present or you'll be destroying your engine quick.

stock computer don't know the new different maf's parameter hence it will not give accurate reading.

so your choices is either get a tune/chip or use the stock maf.
 

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Exactly right. I've got an 80mm LMAF sitting in storage simply because I only want to do ONE reburn on my chip, not one for each upgrade that requires it. I think I'm just about ready for the burn though. ;)

Yea, just store the 80mm MAF until you can get a chip or an Xcal 2 from Lonnie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I've got 2 computers. One with the burn for the 80mm MAF and the 3.73's, and a stock one that I use in conjunction with my 2.73's.

So the Throttle body doesn't matter then, just the MAF?
 

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if its any different than stock yes.... the computer wont read it right causing the car to run rich or lean.... rich will quickly produce carbon build-up in the engine and result in high gas consumption, and lean will cause the engine to run hotter with not enough gas burning valves and pistons over time
 

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buy a chip designed for that size maf.... contact lonnie at scp chips
 

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The reason it wasn't explained to you when you bought is because there are a large number of people that believe all you have to do is fool the MAF. By using different metering or sampling tubes, you can alter the signal that the PCM receives from the MAF sensor depending on the injectors you have installed. While this can get your engine running better than not doing anything at all, it still isn't the right solution. There will be areas in the powerband depending on throttle position or load where the car leans out or gets rich, and no tube is going to fix it. The only way to make sure you get it right is to get a tune with the correct transfer function for the different MAF you are using, period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok, so if there is some carbon build up, is there a motor flush or something that will clean it out? Or do I just need to run it hot or hard a couple of days?

-Josh
 

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Sea-Foam (or is it C-foam?) Whatever it is, get a can and follow the instructions on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Traveler,

with the sea foam, there's no tearing apart that you need to do, correct? it's like motor flush?

-Josh
 

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Its highly recommended here, and now that you mention it, I probably need to use it on my car! (I just got it Dec. 1 and haven't had time or good enough weather to do a whole lot to the car!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok. Another question on this......

Do I need to replace the entire housing, or just the screw-in sensor on the top of the housing?

Reason that I ask is that the guy I bought the car from (may he rest in peace) had a chrome intake with the filter relocation kit, and everything is sealed with aluminum ducting tape. I know that I can get the screw in part of the sensor out without a lot of trouble.... But I don't want to have to put the "stock tubing" back in if I don't have to.

Also since I don't have the MAF in front of me....does the stock MAF screw into the lower section of tubing, or is it a slip fit with a clamp?
 

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You need the entire housing. The sensor was programmed to work with given parameters and the size of the housing is one of those parameters.

The stock T-Bird MAF for the 4.6 clamps onto the stock air box. The later 02 GT, Lightning, and Marauder MAF, bolt onto the factory air boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok, so I'll need to put the stock airbox back in and run the stock hoses for now then?
 
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