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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on putting some racing seats in my 93 LX. Primarily for weight reduction but also because I have always wanted some since riding in my friends 96 Cougar which had some nice ones. I'd like to see some pics of this done. Hopefully from a year that has auto seatbelts. I am trying to see how I can make the seatbelts work since the part the seatbelts latches to is part of the stock seat. Any help would be great thanks.
 

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I don't have any pics for you, but I think the easiest way would be to bolt the racing seats to the stock seat track. I know that hurts the weight reduction aspect, but it would be the easiest. On the other hand, if you want weight reduction, the auto seat belt systems are heavy, so you might want to convert over to the manual belts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My problem with converting to manual seatbelts is the work involved. Plus I would still have all of the presence of the fact that I had auto seatbelts. I was considering just bolting them to the stock tracks, but that has no benefit as far as weight reduction really. Also the fact that my driver seat is power. I was kind of wanting to eliminate that since I prefer manual seats.
 

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You could just eliminate the stock belts all together and go with a harness. A bit of a pain to buckle up that way but you would be able to get rid of the weight, lose the auto seat belts, and still be legal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My concern with the harness is first of all I have been told something about spinal compression or something related to them. Also in order to install the harnesses wouldn't they interfere with the rear passengers? I am not to familiar with the process with harnesses.
 

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My concern with the harness is first of all I have been told something about spinal compression or something related to them. Also in order to install the harnesses wouldn't they interfere with the rear passengers? I am not to familiar with the process with harnesses.
dont put harnesses on your daily driver. The OEM seat belts are just fine and engineered to work.
 

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the harness belt when installed the top that goes over your shoulder need to be parrallel about 90 degrees back not just gi=oing down under the seat. that's mean the upper belt attached point will be at the rear lower windeow height area or else serious injury could happen when in a crash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So is there anyway to install racing seats and retain the use of the auto seatbelts?
 

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Well all you really need is an auto-retracting belt and a buckle mounted in that general area. My reccomendation would be to take the factory seat apart and pull the buckle and belt off it, then find a way to mount that either to the new seat frame, or bolt it directly to the floor, but if you do this be sure to reinforce it by sandwiching 2 plates around the floor where your bolt goes through. You don't want the belt and buckle ripping out of the floor in case of an accident.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess I will need to talk to some body shops and see what they suggest. I was hoping to make this a fairly simple swap. But I guess I was in a little over my head.
 

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On THIS WEEKS dead post rising...

Just as the title says. Seat pics. Im looking for a set of fixed back buckets, and would like to see what you all have and would recommend. Currently the only seats Im looking at are Corbeau Forzas, and the NRG Prisma. But again, would likento see what yall got.



 

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1) I've owned the Corbeau forza seats and while they are a decent fit (unless you are too wide), they are a tube steel frame seat vs a single piece fiberglass AND they offer minimal lateral neck support. They sit lower when mounted into a tbird so if you have a dash, be aware that your sight line will likely be 2-3" lower; this is actually a good thing for helmet clearance. IMO, you can find them new and sell them for the same price (I bought 2 and sold 1 for ~$100/ea.)
  • If I had to chose a racing seat to go with on the street, these aren't bad as long as you have some back support within 12" of the rear (like a plate mounted to your harness bar).
  • I do remember you can get a little sore on the hamstrings (back of the upper thigh) if you drive the car long distances without stopping (say 3+ hours). This is because your but can be seated lower than the knees given the padding at the front of the seat.

2) My current driver's seat in the tbird and the two seats in my Wildcat XX UTV are Bimarco GRIP seats.
- Key selling points is the halo and solid, single piece design. Great for racing; probably a terrible idea for street use.
  • FIA rated. Solid. Comfortable enough through 1300mi of desert racing (I was worried about this given the padding on the shell; the corbeaus actually have springs under the pads).
  • For our next race, we might make a slightly thicker butt pad for additional comfort.
  • I mount these using aluminum side brackets to the corbeau single slider bracket (on the tbird) AND/or straight to the UTV floor mounts.

NOTE: Corbeau brackets aren't great but I never found a OEM manual track or a better option.
  • The dual lockers can bind up, you need to cut off the stock seatbelt mount bracket as it hits the transmission tunnel, and you need to take it apart to get them to mount properly. There is also a little amount of slop in the track that means the seat, despite being "locked" can move in a slightly perceptable manner. Not enough to be worrisome (hell, my stupid Audi OEM seat can rock when you push the car) but if I ever found a better solution, I'd go with it.
  • The single lockers work better (no slop) but if you mount the seat too far back, the fixed position release level will stick too far forward and stab you in the ankle. The solution is to cut that lever down in half and replace the end with a new rubber stopper.

 
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